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Member Since 30 May 2004
Offline Last Active May 19 2017 01:38 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: SMC or CMC ?

11 August 2015 - 12:15 PM

Hi Steen,


The CMC is primarily aimed at lenses like the fixed zoom lens on the larger sensor compacts, like the Sony RX100 series. It will also work well with the 60mm and 45mm macro lenses in the m4/3 world. 


The SMC is designed for a lens like the Nikon 105mm VR or Canon 100mm macro on an APS-C or FF SLR. 


In general, closeup lenses are not useful on lenses like Nikon 60mm because you are already so close to the subject that you can't get much closer. It just so happens that in this case that you can get a little extra magnification with the CMC + Nikon 60mm, about 1.5:1 at 10mm working distance. Yes, 10mm.... that's pretty close. If the 60mm was your only lens, then I might say this is useful, but in my opinion, you are better off with the SMC on the 105mm.


For Canon APS-C shooters, the situation is a little different. In this case, the SMC is useful on both the Canon 100mm and the Canon EF-S 60mm macro lenses, but the CMC does not work with the EF-S 60mm macro. 


Hope that helps,





Hi all


I am wondering about the difference between Nauticam smc and cmc. I know that the smc can't be used on the 60 mm, but are there any other difference ?


I Use Nikon D7200 in Nauticam, and I have both then 60mm and 105mm macro lenses. Now i wonder which macro converter to get.


Any comment on this is most welcome.



In Topic: Questions for NA-GH4 users

17 December 2014 - 02:12 PM

Hi Moses, 


You can also bring the handles a little closer to the housing... there is some room for adjustment there.




In Topic: Nautican D7100 housing AF-M switch not working

07 September 2014 - 06:22 AM

Since I purchased my Nauticam from Reef photo about 18 months ago I have had problems with the auto focus - manual focus selector switch.  I've muscled through it but now I've had it.  I am diving in about on Sept 18 so looking to see if anyone has any advice. The gear mechanism easily switching the camera from AF to manual, but it won't take the switch back to AF......there seems to be too much play in the connections.  I suppose I can use the AF on function but that is cumbersome if you have a quick need to focus and shoot. Focusing with one lever and shooting with another is an extra step in my mind....acceptable for static maybe but not for fish.  So has anyone had this problem and if so how was it solved? Is there a field repair or am I stuck sending it back to Reef photo? I am sure Reef photo would turn it around in time but the risk of not having my camera back for this trip is quite high. I tried to jam duct tape in the connecting areas to get rid of the sloppy movement but that didn't do anything. I also have enough know how to pull that part out if there's a "tightening" procedure, but don't want to go there is that isn't a viable solution.


Any help would be really appreciated.




Hi Joe,


When you put the camera on the tray, make sure the two prongs sit correctly on the switch. You should be able to rotate it using the little dial on the tray and hear it click on both sides. Generally, if you do that, it works fine once in the housing. If not, we will get it fixed for you asap. Drop us an email at innovation@nauticamusa.com and we can get it scheduled for you. Make sure to note your trip date so our service manager can make it happen. 





P.S. I do agree with Eric though, thumb focus is great. If I was a Nikon shooter, I would glue that button on the front down and locked into the autofocus position, as I always seem to forget it is there when I pick up a Nikon.   :)

In Topic: D800 Nauticam S&S YDS1 sync issue

07 September 2014 - 06:14 AM

Hi Everyone: for macro photography I used my Nikon d800 with the 105mm lens, Nauticam NA-D800 housing with two S&S YDS1 strobes this August for the first time. The strobes were set to TTL, the flash mode was set to TTL,  and the flash sync speed was set to 1/250 Auto FP . Many times the sync seems to be going wrong, with a shadow bar appearing in to lower part of the frame. To make it more annoying, it does not happen all the time, so you never know when your strobes are going to "fail" in this way. Anyone has had the same problem? is there any solution that does not imply going into "manual" flash mode? Thanks in advance for any help.




Have you tried running with Auto FP turned off? Since D800 sync speed is rated at 1/250 anyway, it won't hurt to turn Auto FP off, and might help.  I think as a general rule, Auto FP could pose problems for a strobe. Now, it's possible that the camera flash doesn't actually use FP flash (i.e. many smaller pulses) when shooting at 1/250, so this might be a mute point, but if it is actually doing a HSS flash, then it is likely this is the problem you are seeing.


I don't see anything on Sea&Sea's website that the YS-D1 supports Auto FP, and even if it did, could still be the problem. I think it quite possible that the strobe is able to keep up for some of the pulses, but could miss on some of them, with the result being a dark band of the shot as you describe. And it would by nature be sporadic, depending on how much the light the TTL decides to throw, battery condition, etc. 


I tried doing a little googling about the Auto FP on the D800's popup flash, but much of what is talked about relates to external flashes, and not the popup itself. I don't have a D800 here I can test with but I'd be interested to hear if this is the issue here.