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errbrr

Member Since 14 Sep 2009
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 07:47 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Using nalgene or latched acrylic jar to put your non-waterproof torch?

25 August 2015 - 02:54 PM

Without the camera, how would you capture scenes of enthusiasm like this? On mobile otherwise I'd post the photo itself, sorry.

http://lizrogersphot...on-through-mud/

In Topic: Using nalgene or latched acrylic jar to put your non-waterproof torch?

24 August 2015 - 04:39 PM

Sump diving is a UK term...looks a bit like this:

 

Attached File  image1.JPG   93.38KB   11 downloads

 

The cloud of silt is from dragging a bag of extra gear through the mud. Visibility is a first-diver-only privilege. It's also pretty rough on the equipment and having gear that needs to stay dry after a dip adds complexity.

 

The peli case and the nalgene may be strong enough not to collapse completely but they are likely to distort slightly and upset the o-ring seal. There's an easy way to test though - leave it empty and take it to depth. Take a spare pair of undies in case it goes bang  :)


In Topic: Using nalgene or latched acrylic jar to put your non-waterproof torch?

20 August 2015 - 03:24 PM

I use nalgene bottles for caving and sump diving (3m - 10m deep) and they are relatively robust and waterproof. I also use pelican cases which are more indestructible, but even a small-ish pelican case will flood at depth - the cubic shape doesn't compress well. I left mine at 6m for two hours to test it and it had four or five tablespoons of water in it afterward. 

 

For that kind of depth I would suggest an old light canister of the type that had a battery and the light head connected by a cable. Remove battery and cable, find some way of blocking the cable gland, et voila, dry tube. You may have an old lead acid battery-powered dive light in your garage, or know someone who does. Don't forget that containers of air will float underwater. You may need some extra lead and a way of storing the floating part such that it doesn't get in your way.


In Topic: Canon 5DMarkII Camera and Aquatica Housing System

19 August 2015 - 06:12 PM

Hi,

 

Your picture has a single ikelite bulkhead, not a dual nikonos bulkhead. Do you have the nikonos bulkheads separate? If so, can I buy them off you?

 

Cheers,

 

Liz


In Topic: which setup to shoot burst underwater?

10 August 2015 - 10:04 PM

The inon guys aren't kidding about "limit the number of flashes". If you shoot at high speed or full power (and especially if both) you will overheat and burn out the flash tubes. This will initially reduce the available light output. Eventually you get all the way to zero with completely brown tubes. The capacitor will still charge and discharge but the flash tubes are no longer viable. How long this takes depends on the temperature of the water and your shooting behaviour.

 

The bigger bodied strobes may be better able to absorb the heat created by the flash tube. I have used burst mode successfully with a Canon speedlite on land, and with natural light no strobes underwater (split shots in waves, zippy sealions - close to the surface and both with manual focus).