Jump to content


Member Since 14 Sep 2009
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:39 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Controlling Z240

29 November 2016 - 02:46 PM

I don't know about the S-TTL stuff as I don't use it, but I consider this to be correct for manual operation:


Manual Mode (Magnet switch pressed + camera flash set to manual 1/64) 
-Right Dial at 9 oc position, slightly underexposed(darkest)
-Becoming brighter as I turn the dial clockwise and becoming more and more overexposed.
-Brightest at position 8 oc.


The setting on your camera flash shouldn't matter, as long as it isn't pre-flashing (check your manual to ensure the camera isn't attempting to eTTL it). But it seems like you are achieving the expected result with the brightest position at 8 o'clock or the "set it to 11" marking on the strobe. It's also worth noting that 11 won't give you a full dump of the strobe - you need to turn it to Full to get this. You can test it by watching how long the red light takes to come back on after flashing. It's slightly longer for a full dump vs a manual-set-to-11.


If you leave the magnet switch out/unpressed then the strobe will be pre-flashing. If the camera is set to flash manually and therefore the shutter is capturing the pre-flash, you will get the same dim flash appearing in all pictures regardless of settings.

In Topic: For Sale: 5D2 body, Aquatica housing, 8" domes and macro port

27 November 2016 - 01:12 PM

One careful lady owner, driven only on weekends and holidays  :)


In all seriousness, what's the point of valuable equipment if you're afraid to take it to the place with the photo opportunity? I've never dropped or functionally damaged the housing and it continued to perform perfectly on all of my adventures. The scratches add a certain character.


I'm thinking of this as an adoption rather than a sale. I've taken incredible shots with this rig and it deserves to go to someone who will use it well.

In Topic: Wich better? TTL or MANUAL?

22 November 2016 - 02:39 PM

Manual. I shoot mostly wideangle and in caves.


In the new Nauticam housing which I have just bought, the internal cabling to attach both electrical bulkheads to the camera hotshoe is poorly designed. My dealer tells me I should buy a ttl converter and use fibre optic cables instead. I have no interest in moving to TTL shooting and will modify the housing internals myself to work smoothly with the electrical cables for manual shooting. This would seem to indicate that many buyers either prefer TTL or are being pushed down the TTL path.

In Topic: Very particular underwater task requires advice

16 November 2016 - 06:54 PM

I don't have any specific camera advise but I will say this - practise with whatever you get. Before you get to the Arctic or wherever. Because whichever setup you use, there will be an optimum angle, distance from the ice, aperture, shutter speed, ISO, speed of the ROV and number of photos required for coverage. And you may find you can change one setting to give you better results in a couple of other settings, like slowing down the ROV to decrease the shutter speed and avoid the use of on board lighting. I have done some photo and video runs to map cave tunnels and the first run never works properly. Depending on the program we used to stitch things, completely different technique was required. Much easier to sort that stuff out standing waist deep in a well heated pool a few evenings a week and downloading images for pool tile analysis each time.


On the dome port front, if you use a rectilinear lens (as opposed to a fisheye which distorts things) you will need a relatively high f stop to avoid blurry edges. Either that, or consider a wider angle lens where you crop the result and discard the outside of the frame. Flat ports underwater magnify the image and are unusual for wide angle. You may like to consider having a ruler/fixed measurement in the frame for reference.


On the Sony 7s, consider the battery life (not much!). How often will you be pulling the camera up? Do you plan to shoot tethered with results coming up as you go?

In Topic: Leaving the camera at home

10 October 2016 - 02:34 PM

I find the obsession with breaking down housing and camera into component parts for travel really weird. I travel with my DSLR in the housing with the wide angle lens and dome port in situ and strobes attached, ready to dive. Fits in a backpack with a jumper for padding as I casually wander onto the plane pretending it doesn't weigh much. I put fresh eneloops in the strobes at home and setting up consists of:


Step 1. Remove Housing From Backpack

Step 2. Go Diving


I can see why spending the first day of the trip fiddling nervously with o-rings and puffing minuscule bits of dust off the lens/port/lens again would detract from the excitement.