Jump to content


Member Since 19 Jun 2004
Offline Last Active Today, 12:47 PM

#366479 misaligned Port and extension

Posted by TimG on 25 October 2015 - 10:29 PM

Phew! Well done. That must have been a horribly, stomach-jolting, scary moment......  :dancing:

#365876 Is this true? Trigger fish can Destroy your Dome?

Posted by TimG on 05 October 2015 - 03:43 AM

Probably depends on the material of the dome and what it tastes like.....

#364988 Searching for a mentor

Posted by TimG on 06 September 2015 - 06:07 AM

It's well worth it, Andreas. Mike and his colleagues are excellent people and very knowledgeable. I can recommend them!

#364714 not so noticeable carrying case for air travel?

Posted by TimG on 27 August 2015 - 10:13 AM

You can buy TSA padlocks though, right?


Have you had a problem taking your TT on as cabin baggage? I use a Pelican 1510 roller box and, touch wood, have not had a problem taking it as cabin baggage over the last 12 years and I have travelled a great deal with it. I didn't think the TT was that different in size (but I haven't checked).

#364460 storing fins between trips

Posted by TimG on 20 August 2015 - 05:41 AM

Chuck them in your cupboard and pull them out when you need them. I've had pairs that have lasted decades and have done nothing at all to care for them. A decent pair are almost indestructible. I've got some Scubapro open-heel, split fins which may well outlive the cockroach. A pair of Mares full foot fins are more than 15 years old and must have done well over 1000 dives. 


BCDs and regs need a bit of care and attention (but even then not a massive amount) - the rest.....  :crazy:


And, believe it or not (after what I have written) I really do take good care of my stuff. Don't sweat about your fins, Ahmed.

#364338 DS161 strobes don't stand still

Posted by TimG on 17 August 2015 - 04:03 AM

Wow, that is a pain, Ahmed.


I don't have DS strobes (I use Inons which are lighter and smaller) and have no problems with ULCS arms even though mine are now about 12 years old and have about 1000+ dives worth of experience on them. 


The weight and lack of firm rigidity shouldn't be an issue though underwater. Maybe you just need to have some way of locking the arms for, say, handing them up to a boat so the strobes don't get smacked around; or for a shore entry. Other than that, it shouldn't cause you a real problem.

#364313 how to DIY strobe floats from styrofoam ?

Posted by TimG on 16 August 2015 - 12:10 AM

Hi Ahmed


Yep, it'll compress for sure. And at 30m it'll be completely crunched unless it's very dense foam. Packing styrofoam is pretty much useless.


The best density stuff I have seen - and use - is the foam that is used for Stix buoyancy foam. That's pretty good and, although others have said it compresses at 30m, I haven't seen that. 


I suggest a Google of Stix buoyancy foam (take a look at, e.g. http://www.backscatter.com/hostedstore/products/stix.html) andsee what it's made of and if you don't want to buy them, see if you can find a similar type of foam. As I say, it's very dense - and very effective.

#364224 Sea&Sea strobes don't turn on anymore

Posted by TimG on 13 August 2015 - 05:01 AM

Hi topus


If they are both now not working I'd suspect battery issues. Any way you can change the batteries and recheck?

#364043 Debating my first set-up

Posted by TimG on 08 August 2015 - 12:15 AM

Hi jrsxtn


A couple of extra thoughts and to add to what others have said. Much depends on what you are trying to achieve and how choosy you are. For some the sort of snap pics that you would show your friends may be good enough. But if, like many of us on the forum, you become a near-obsessive, perfection-hunting nutcase, the sky is the limit.


The suggestion of the EM-5 is a good. I know people too who have made careers out of using the Canon G series with an Ikelite housing. I think they may cost less than the EM-5.


As Xarifa explains, you can always upgrade. Bear in mind that if you make the right choices over a few items - especially strobes and arms, they can grow with you and you don't need to change them. Chances are the camera and the housing with be something you might change every few years. Have a look at the Inon strobes (especially the Z240 - almost an industry standard) and ULCS arms. You buy the arms once - you need never buy again.


Just to help on the "bubble port" issue, a "domeport" is what you usually need for wide-angle photography using a wide-angle lens. Shooting macro only requires a "flat port" but because of the nature of wide-angle lenses and the way they deal with the underwater environment, you need a curved port to photograph wide-angle. These are usually more expensive than flat ports but are, if you want to shoot wide-angle, key.


Hope this adds a bit more for you.

#363934 Sacrificial anodes

Posted by TimG on 05 August 2015 - 11:39 AM



That's the Smurfy blue stuff, Alex? Oh yeah... 



Duralac is indispensable for the sealing of joints between dissimilar metals of all types including magnesium and its alloys. It is also valuable for the protection of metals in contact with wood, synthetic resin compositions, leather, rubber, fabrics etc. 

When the components of a structure are of different materials, it is essential that the points or faces of contact should be treated with corrosion inhibiting materials because in the presence of electrolytes considerable differences of potential arise, not only where different metals are in contact, but also where components of the same metal under different stresses are in contact: for example as between the aluminium alloy plates or extrusions and rivets or bolts used in building up the structure, in industrial areas where structures are exposed, in flue ducts and acidic vapours. 

In close proximity to the sea where a salt laden atmosphere will be met with, structures will need the maximum attention to prevent corrosion due to the electrolytic cells set up by the salt laden moisture deposited upon the structure.


Wicked! Many thanks for that! Now I know....  :dancing:  It sure did the trick. Messy stuff though but definitely worth it if you are leaving stuff plugged/screwed together for long periods.

#363865 Sacrificial anodes

Posted by TimG on 03 August 2015 - 06:43 AM

Hi Brian


Although I don't use a Nauticam, I'm on my fifth aluminium housing (all Subals) and none of them have had anodes. I have never had a problem which I could identify as sacrificial anode or galvanic action related.


The only thing that has cropped up was I had problems once getting a Heinrich Weikamp TTL adapter plug off a strobe bulkhead. I thought that had managed to weld itself. But it was more than likely my fault rather than some form of galvanic action as I probably hadn't removed it and rinsed it often enough. I was diving pretty much every day for a year....


If you really wanted to do it I'm sure you could screw one where the tray would normally fit - assuming you're not using a tray.

#363827 Nikon DX wide angle lens and dome

Posted by TimG on 02 August 2015 - 05:57 AM

Hey Peter


Like Ran, I've shot single models and groups of people in pools with the Tokina using a Nikon D300. The lens was just fine provided no part of the model extended too close to the lens to increase the distortion. I was using a Subal 8" dome. 


You could try the Nikkor 12-24 but I'm not sure you would do much better than the Tokina.


The one thing I did find an issue though was small bubbles on the dome created by the pool pump system. With 20-20 hindsight I should have ensured before each batch of photos that I had checked the dome and cleared any bubbles. Sadly I didn't and only discovered the problem sitting in front of the monitor with 300 images. But hey, a few tears.... maybe 2-3 keepers out of 300.....

#363717 looking for advice on what to buy...from scratch

Posted by TimG on 29 July 2015 - 03:46 AM



Pity on that housing.  But keep looking - check out this forum's Classifieds if you haven't already. 


On your Canon question, a quick look on the B&H website for the G16 housing says it is fibre-optic compatible. So no problem with the Inon strobe. 


It also says the housing gives you access to "all controls"


It's easy to get blinded by science with the arms/tray thing. But essentially it is relatively straight-forward. To attach the strobe you need some form of movable arm(s). Most people use two - an 8" plus a 5" to give lots of flexibility and reach with e.g. wide-angle but the ability to tuck-in the strobe for e.g. macro.


The arms are connected to each other and the strobe by "clamps". Chances are you would need 2 clamps: one to connect the two arms, one to connect the final arm to the strobe. And then you have to connect the arms to something that can connect to the Canon housing - the tray. If you go with Nauticam or a similar housing you might not need a tray as the higher end housings have a ball mount that you can attach your arms to using a third clamp.


It might be an idea to try and pick up a copy of Martin Edge's book on UW Photog - you'll find that really helpful. Or, quicker and cheaper - but very helpful, take a look at the Info Sheets that Reef Photo have on their website. It'll help explain things. But Martin Edge's book is a good investment.

#362744 For FX: Nikon 17-35mm or 16-35mm

Posted by TimG on 29 June 2015 - 05:39 AM

Sorry..... :)


It is good choice with a 9" dome though.





Adam, we should just give TighLInes a bunch of reasons why he should buy that Nikkor 20mm.....


It was such a good deal; it was the last one in the shop/the city/on the planet; I can sell my old [fill in details] for more than the cost of this one; it's lighter weight, think of the money I'll save in baggage charges; yes, this one is the new Eco-lens - it's made  in an environmentally neutral way - I'm saving the planet; what new lens; I've always wanted a 20mm lens since i was [complete age]. 


I'm sure Fabian can chip in. He's an expert at this.



#362617 Strobe positioning with fisheye - tips needed!

Posted by TimG on 24 June 2015 - 09:41 PM

Hey Storker


Yeah, the lighting position is working better in those 3 shots for sure. Well done.


Next move, I'd suggest, would be to get much closer in pic 1 (crab) and especially in pic 2 (urchin). This echoes Interceptor121's comment. One of the beauties of the FE is just how close you can get - concentrating on the main subject but showing it against it's habitat. Pic 2 is ideal for this. If (If!) you could have got lower than the urchin (pic2), really close and shot upwards it might work even better. Of course, you'd need to get your model to attend the TimG PADI Underwater Modelling (Elegant Leg Positioning) Specialty.


Same with the crab (pic 1), if you could get below the body of the crab and shoot upwards so that you can see water between the rock and the crabs leg. It could be quite dramatic.


Ahhh, counsels of perfection. Doncha love 'em.