Irie

And one other question...my T3i also has video capabilities (a big reason why I bought it). But of course when filming the nasty blue hue is back. I'm guessing I'm going to need a video light. But are there any other ways around it?? Have folks had any luck with filters?

I tried using the custom white balance feature with a white card in my hand but the stills ended up coming out way red. So I immediately switched it back. Like an idiot it I never even tried shooting video with it. In theory would this have worked?

To me it looks like you ambient light exposure setting is a little over exposed and your strobe setting may be a little short or you may be just to far away for your strobe to reach that far. You have to be closer then you think, much more then a meter away and you will run out of strobe.

I have pretty good luck shooting wide angle 200 ISO, 1/125 to 1/180 @F8 to F11. I shoot center weighted metering and have pretty good luck.

For me setting exposure into the clear blue then reduce exposure by 1/3 to 2/3 of a stop works good. You can fire a test shot into the blue away from the sun ball without your strobe on to check the color of the water, if too dark adjust the shutter speed slower if to light adjust the shutter speed faster.

I then get pretty close to my subject from just about touching my port to no more then a meter away and adjust my strobe or strobes accordingly too get a good exposure.

More times then not I end up shooting at 1/180 and F9.5 for my taste unless I am shooting towards the sun ball or in a dark hole somewhere.

What I still have a lot of trouble with is shooting in shallow water with bright sun in the mostly white coral rubble. I can't seam to over power the bright whiteness with my strobes. I often resort to shooting ambient light with my strobes off but really don't like the look.

If you don't have it already Martin Edge's book "The Underwater Photographer" is invaluable for helping you out and is a good reference for future shooting.

Ok. I'll try and adjust that next time.

And I am definitely going to have to get my hands on that book. You're the second person now who has recommended that one. Must be a great one!

Oh yeah...settings were F8, 1/125, and ISO 200.

Good stuff! That program sounds great. I'll definitely be installing that when I get back. FWIW, these were taken with my Tokina 10-17mm. I didnt really intend to be taking pics of corals with it. I brought it mainly to get some shots of Manta Rays the dive operator promised to show us. Unfortunately for me they never came. But hey, that's how it goes. These are wild animals.


Here's another example...

Hello,

I'm selling my secondary housing for a Canon T2i/550 camera. Housing and components are in excellent condition, maintained and serviced regularly, and just pressure tested this past week by Reef Photo. Too expensive to travel with two rigs and I'm keeping my Canon 7D/Nauticam setup.

Details and pricing as follows:

• Sea&Sea RDX 550 Housing - SS-06153
  
• Grip Stay L Tray for RDX Housings - SS-22108
• RDX Standard Port - SS-30107
• RDX Standard Port Cover - SS-46101
  
• RDX Port Base S CX Macro Port - SS-30108
• RDX Port Base L NX Port (Domes) - SS-30109
• Compact Macro Port 52 - SS-56241
• CX/Macro Front Port Cover S - SS-51220
  
• CX/Macro Rear Port Cover S - SS-51250
• Zoom gear for Tokina AT-X 107 AF DX 10-17mm - SS-31114
• Zoom gear for Canon EF-S 18-55mm Kit Lens - SS-31119
  

I am located in South Florida. Paid over $3450 for all items in brand new condition. Price is $2550 or best offer for the lot. I'll pay S/H and Insurance if sold in US/Canada when purchased at asking price. I prefer to sell everything whole but may consider breaking up the set.

Thanks for reviewing,

Sam

What would your prices be if you broke it up? I was an idiot and bought a whole kit including ports and gears for a WA lens only. Now I'm starting to realize having only WA gear might suck. I need to get some flat port and macro gear too. LMK.

-Joel