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Member Since 05 Mar 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:51 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Hugyfot housing for Nikon D7100

28 September 2014 - 12:50 PM


yes the manual is old and very generic!

There are no 2 leds showing the function status and battery level, there are only 2 led showing the function of the HugyCheck system

This two leds are (on the D7000 and D800 housing) now on left, lower side of the camera mounting plate attached with an velcro pad and they are basically 2 LED lamps with a velcro around it.
and they are showing the HugyCheck vacuum level.


The small pin holding the camera aligned with the camera mounting plate have to fit the small hole on the camera body.
If you hold the mounting plate the right way and it still not fit the hole, it may be:
a) the wrong camera mounting plate, for a different camera (most likely a mistake while packing the camera)

b) the hole is drilled in the wrong location

Please contact HugyFot in Belgium regarding your problems, Pascal is alwasy very helpful to support you!


Best Regards


In Topic: wtb nikon d7000 rig.

27 September 2014 - 12:58 AM

I am selling my Hugyfot D7000 rig made of:

- Hugyfot D7000 housing incl. all accessoires, (vacuum leak detector, water alarm, electric vacuum pump, allen/hex keys)
- Hugyfot 174mm acrylic dome port
- Hugyfot macro port
- Hugyfor 40mm extension ring
- Hugyfot 60mm extension ring
- Hugyfot zoom gear for Tokina 12-24mm
- Hugyfot backpack and towel

- new model camera plate from 2012 (almost unused, was 120$ extra)
All is from July 2011 and has about 30 dives, all perfect, acrylic dome port has minor scratches, but i will polish it with micro-mesh before delivery.
Price new 3500€, will sell for 2000€ exclusive shipping from Sardinia - Italy
I will offer 2 dives at my dive shop in Sardinia - Italy to try it,
Flights from England are are cheap!!!

Also for sale
500€  D7000 Body 5800 clicks, June 2011 Nikon Italy Guarantee for 3 years
200€ Tokina 12-24mm, perfect, 2008
200€ Tokina 100mm macro, new conditions, June 2011

500€ Athena 107 vario coated glass dome port + adapter ring for Hugyfot, 5 dives, perfect conditions

300€ Nikon 70-300 VR, perfect, 2010
200€ Sigma 70-300 Macro APO unused, 2011, unused


In Topic: Dry Suits - How to?

25 September 2014 - 05:13 AM

I dive my compressed 3mm neoprene dry suits with the left arm dump valve full or almost fully open and correct buoyancy with my bcd.

Neoprene dry suits are usually much tighter than trilaminate dry suits as you need less undergarment due to the isolation of the neoprene.

This gives them a snug fit and lead to a much smaller amount of air shifting around inside when you change your trim,
but still enough to correct your trim adding some air to your feet (or not).

This set-up and use is fine for me and i don't have/need/should use my dry suit as as bcd, is just use the bcd as i always do indipendently if i use

a tank on my back or my rebreather on my back.


The above written regard only diving with neoprene dry suits, diving with trilaminate dry suits can be different due the much bigger amount of air necessary

to archieve the same warming effect as neoprene do.



In Topic: Comparing Canon: PowerShot G1 X Mark II vs 70d

22 September 2014 - 07:22 AM

I use the G1X MKII now for about 4 months in the original OEM housing and with the internal strobe.
This set-up may bias me to see the camera's weak points during underwater photographing and probably the use of a focus light and a external strobe may increase picture quality a lot.
I replaced my G12 with this camera due it's excellent above water image quality but till now i am not very satisfied with the image quality and i belive that the G11 and G12 made better pictures (using a external strobe).

This camera is my "every day camera" during my work and the light weight and rather small size OEM housing make it still acceptable for such a use.


I basically agree with uwbear's remarks but i belive that using external strobe(s) may help substantially for better image quality.


I use the camera often to record videos and i am more or less satified with the results using ambient light.
In low contrast conditions due to murky water the autofocus may be slow to focus and also can loose focus during recording,

but under good illuminated conditions the autofocus stay's put on the subject.


I also belive that a dedicated housing with a dedicated dome port would greatly improve image quality and especially the need to use open apertures

to get rid of the strong soft corners especially during macro photography.


I love to take my D800 for a dive and enjoy the extrem quality pictures from this camera, but often she is simply to big to carry so i use a P+S for everyday use,.



In Topic: Strobe and exposure

05 July 2014 - 05:24 AM


welcome aboard!

1° Problem: Hotspot
    There are two possible solutions, the focus light or the strobe itself
    The white hotspot is most likely the light from your Nano LED focus light, even if this focus light should switch off when you take the picture but
    something probably don't work well.
    If the same issue occurs when you don't use the focus light it is the position of your strobe and only the lower intensity border of the strobe beam hit the coral

    while the center of the strobe beam hit above and lead to the overexposed area.


2° Problem: Strobe positioning
very near macro with a external strobe (if not a ring strobe) is difficoult using 1 strobe only as he has to be positioned very near the port.

     Using only 1 strobe in a 45° angle mostly lead to ugly shadows of the opposite side of the motive, positioning it above may work better.


3° Problem: Backscatter

     To reduce backscatter you need to position the strobe(s) at a 45° angle regarding the lens and as far out as possible so

      that the motive is hit only by the borders of the strobe beam


           \   o    /

o=Lens     \ + / = strobe(s)




- why don't you use sTTL? The S120 and the S2000 should work perfectly together using Tv or Av, Av to control depth of field, Tv to control dark backgrounds

- play with the exposure control settings: matrix, center weighted or spot  to see what gives you the best results

- backscatter and macro is difficult to control, photoshop is your friend ...

- If viz is good, the mix of the internal strobe and a external strobe can lead to very nice pictures