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ChrigelKarrer

Member Since 05 Mar 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 09:12 AM
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#363618 Is TTL possible with Panasonic LX100 and Nauticam housing?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 26 July 2015 - 10:17 AM

I use 2 INON Z-240 with my LX100 in a Nauticam housing and they work great in sTTL with fiberoptic cable.

To be honest, i have no idea how the S+S work and what setting must be set to make it work.

Chris




#361971 another strobe or 105mm

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 08 June 2015 - 09:55 PM

I agree with ErrBrr,

if you can have good viz to do wide angle, a second strobe, if viz is mostly limited and not too much surge then switch over to macro.

As far as i know Australia has a lot of macro life (as everywhere) you just have to teach your eyes and have the patience to spot it!

Chris




#361868 Does a harness bcd improve shooting uw?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 05 June 2015 - 09:50 PM

I dive only wings, Zeagle Ranger and OMS FeatherWight.

The Zeagle is very very sturdy (mine have 1000+ dives on it) and comfortable, but very heavy while the OMS is a very light wing, perfect for traveling.

 

Regarding your question: what makes improving shooting photos and protecting the environment from you is the right buoyancy!

You can achieve thet wit a) experience and b) right wighted and correct weight distribution while the type of BCD is not really so important.

I personally prefer the wing type bcd for several reasons and to be honest, i have some problems with trim for the first minutes when i use a traditional bcd.

 

If you want a for-your-lifetime BCD then i suggest you a Zeagle Ranger, but due it's weight and size it's not very appropriate for traveling by plane.

 

Chris




#361335 Locline. Does it always creak?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 20 May 2015 - 01:01 AM

I normally use ULCS arms, but i agree with OP that continous positioning of clam arms is annoying.

I used 3/4 Locline arms and i most likely will buy another set for my small Nauticam LX100 rig as i use it mostly

while guiding to document special moments and often i don't have time to position the clamps and bending a locline arm is much quicker.

Also the vantage of Locline arms is that you can bend them around your housing to streamline the rig and that is important as i usually have it tucked under my armpit.
Another vantage is that you quickly can break them apart (and reconnect them) to use the strobe/lamp to illuminate from back or other far positions.

 

Regarding creak, yes they do creak, some more and some less and there is not very much to do. Silicon or dry Teflon spray may help with creak, but i fear that it will make them floppy.
Keep in mind that Locline elemets can be bought inexpensive as they are basically a rigid hose and often used to feed cooling fluid on milling machines and there are several types of them.
the only parts you need is the adapter to your tray and the adapter to your strobe or video light, more elements can be found in (online) tool shops

 

Davide DB: i think that Locline arms will bend/turn back on your scooter

 

Chris




#360817 Good High Power Video Lights?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 05 May 2015 - 06:45 AM

I have:
2 Mangrove 4400 lumen 120° video light
1 FIX Neos 2500 DX 100° video light for macro video

2 Hartenberger Mega Compact Video 35 watt HID (my buddy's rig)

 

I saw the Keldane 5000 and the FIX Acquavolt 7000 at Reef Photo and Video in Ft. Lauderdale.
The Keldane are excellent built, swiss made lights, some of them a bit bulky due their dome, excellent CRI, 90° beam with soft falloff
The FIX acquavolt 7000 is smaller (as far i remember), not so sophisticated but extremely bright and wide (115°), spotless beam (as the Keldane as well)

Consider two things:
- a lot of manufacturers use Lumen as value and that can be misleading as Lumen depend on the width of the beam. A xxx lumen light at 120° beam with is much less bright than the same light at 80° beam with!
- Lamps with higher lumen are bigger and more heavy considering the same battery duration of a lower lumen light, this can be a issue when traveling

 

2500 lumen 120° lamps illuminate about 40 centimeters

4000 lumen 120° lamps illuminate about 50/60 centimeters
Both is measured at 12 meter at 11 a.m. sunny summer day in crystal clear Sardinian sea

4400 lumen illuminate nice and wide a cave or at night dives

 

To illuminate a shark and/or restore it's color at 2 Meter distance and 120° beam i guess you probably need 10'000 lumen or 80-100° beam and 600-8000 lumen.

 

If i would buy new video lights i would go with the Keldane!

 

Chris




#360756 Lets talk lumens!

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 03 May 2015 - 09:42 AM

I guess that you won't do macro with a camera mounted on a scooter so i would take the most powerful with the widest beam.

If you should use the light in a cave or at night then 6000 lumen can be enough, but under daylight situations it is not enough for wide angle.

 

My 2 Mangrove 120° 4000 lumen LED video light illuminate at daylight and 12 meters deep in clear water approx 50-60 centimeters in front of them, not more.

My new FIX Neos 2500 video light about 30-40 centimeters, not more.

 

Yes, it would be better if manufacturers would show the lux instead of lumen, but unfortunately the don't ...

 

I personally would go with the most powerful ones i can afford as long as i can dim them and they have a CRI above 85/90

 

Chris

 

P.S. Have a look here:
http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=53014
http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=52602
http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=51659




#359662 Hyperfocal distance for Lumix LX100?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 05 April 2015 - 08:08 AM

Google was my friend and i found this interesting review of the LX100: http://vid305.com/v?i=7DDmuRBgBK4
As he says, hyperfocal distance should be set to 5 ft and this will give a DOF from 2.5 ft - infinite @ f/5.6

That sound a bit strange (or too good to be true) to me ...

 

Chris




#359363 LX100 Underwater Video - Anyone else have experience with the LX100

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 29 March 2015 - 07:37 AM

Basil,

thanks for your input on magic (or whatever other brand) filters and Magic Filters are a excellent product!
Me and my camera man did a try with a red filter on "our" WWII wreck back in Sardinia and the result was very nice.

We used a semi professional Canon video camera and no video lights and the footage had much more contrast in the footage and almost perfect original colors (as we see it).
As far as i understand any red/pink filter will create a color change if you use artificial illumination (video lights, torches) and color correcting filters are mainly for use in ambient light.
This may work fine in clear waters and in the first 10-20 feet of depth, but due the lower light deeper it will affect negatively shutter speed and/or f/stops and as artificial lighting is not

possible it will not show the true color of corals, fishes, sea fans, etc.
The second issue with color correcting filters is that to make them work you need to stick on a certain depth where the color of the filter works as it best,

this could be solved with external wet filters to be able to change them under water.
 

From my point - as a old school photographer - i prefer to use strobes for photography and high power video lamps for video footage, but this is my personal belief and way of doing it.

 

Chris




#359336 LX100 Underwater Video - Anyone else have experience with the LX100

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 28 March 2015 - 10:40 AM

Ok,
i made it to upload the 4K macro video, all Panasonic LX100 and most with the SubSee +10 diopter.

https://youtu.be/zWlMPqeNdOY

 

The rough conditions here and the limited viz combined with my limited knowledge of video editing did not produced a great video,

but it show the capability of the camera.

 

Yes, working the LX100 in manual mode would produce much better videos and most in this video are recorded in manual mode,

but in high surge/current and low viz condition make manual recording not very easy.

Also, the autofocus is working well but with moving motives it tend to be to fast and start to focus somewhere else,
but that may be also some settings who give better results.

 

Regarding the iA button,

this function comes handy when you take pictures with f/16 1/500 sec and something fast and special shows up,
so just pushing the iA button is much quicker than regulate f stop, time and ISO to get the correct exposure.

 

Regarding Manual Mode:
I use the LX100 in manual mode for macro pictures, f/16 and 1/250/1/500 sec and my INON Z-240 will decide the correct amount of strobe power, works perfect!

My lack in knowledge recording video makes it in this moment difficult to use the camera in manual for video work and most of my videos are more "snippets" to upload

on YouTube or post in FaceBook. For high-end movies, my buddy and best friend Carlo are doing them for me and i am learning from him.

 

The FIX Neos 2500 DX gives plenty of a wide spread beam so a aperture of f/16 is not a problem for macro and near motives.

 

I am very excited to try the camera back home in Sardinia where surge and current is not a issue and water is usually gin clear.

Well, if i manage it timewise  i may go 2-3 weeks to Utila or Mexio to do the Rebreather Instructor Course and there i will have a lot of fun too.

My Poseidon SE7EN and this camera would be a killer combination (for it's size)

 

Chris




#359316 LX100 Underwater Video - Anyone else have experience with the LX100

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 27 March 2015 - 07:02 PM

:wacko:

Yeah, kkfok, you are right, that was the wrong video :o
I uploaded a new one made with the LX100 and i am working on a macro video in 4K to show the quality,

but the size in 4K is 1.7GB, too much to upload with the slow lines in Costa Rica.
Also to do macro with a +10 diopter with 2-10 ft swells is not a very easy task to tackle down...

https://youtu.be/U4QshZNc_dM

 

Sorry for that!

 

Chris




#359294 LX100 Underwater Video - Anyone else have experience with the LX100

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 27 March 2015 - 07:35 AM

I do a lot of videos with the LX100 here in Costa Rica and i did not noticed a particular degradation of quality at higher ISO.
What i learned is to use the I-Movie automatic function instead of manual exposure as this gives better results for point and shoot situations,

especially in situations with very high contrasts.

As long there is enough light to illuminate the scene correctly the camera produces smooth pictures in manual with F/16 for macro and in my case it was

a Fix Neos 2500 DX or the Z-240 pilot light with the white diffusor.
 

Examples are here:
 

https://youtu.be/jZ_AbKknaPQ  (Z-240 focus light)
https://youtu.be/2aXQTN9PY8A (90ft deep, low light conditions, no additional light)

 

Both videos have only little corrections and i am not the great video tweaker...

 

Chris

I have several other macro scenes, but i have so much to do that i barely find the time to edit them.
 




#358500 Are you happy you changed from DX to FX?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 04 March 2015 - 04:27 AM

Yeah Alex Mustard,

you did a great job with this special port and i guess that we all hope that he becomes one day available for everybody!

Chris




#357628 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 09 February 2015 - 05:00 PM

Well, i went again to verify the pictures i took using the Nauticam Flip Adapter and the SubSee +10 Diopter and mounted the housing on two 4 pound weights to keep her put.

carefully sliding the weighted housing back and forth using manual focus i got a slighly better result than last time (4.5 centimetes and not 5.0 centimeters)

As i was already in the pool i tested also the flat, short 67mm threaded port + a old INON UWL - 100 wide angle wet lens wit 67mm tread.

 

Once again, i can't see any magnification difference in AF, AF macro or manual focus mode using the SubSee +10 diopter

 

LX100 generic port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 800
75mm no diopter

LX10075mm.jpg

 

 

 

LX100 generic port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 2000
75mm SubSee +10 AF macro

LX10075mmAFSubSee+10.jpg

 

 

 

LX100 generic port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
75mm SubSee +10 AF macro mode

In this picture i hold the SubSee directly on the glass to avoid the space between the flip holder and the port, not a big difference

LX10075mmMacroModeSubSee+10.jpg

 

 

 

LX100 flat 67mm threaded port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
24mm

width of Image: +/- 4 meters
shooting distance: +/- 4.10 meters

LX10024mmAFInonUWL100.jpg

 

 

 

LX100 flat 67mm threaded port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
30mm
(minimum zoom to avoid vignetting)

width of Image: unknown

shooting distance: +/- 4.10 meters

LX10030mmAFInonUWL100.jpg

 

 

LX100 flat 67mm threaded port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
30mm
(minimum zoom to avoid vignetteing)

width of Image: 8.7 centimeters
shooting distance: +/- 3 centimeters

 

I took also a CFWA photo, but as it was almost dark and the UWL-100 almost hit the ruler the picture looks so bad that it offend the eye and i censored it.

In any case, with a shooting distance of approx 3 centimeters the photo is 8.7 centimeters wide

 

I think that i could get even more near, but the lens is dropping shadow on the ruler so i may need to redo the test with a back illuminated ruler

 

Chris




#357135 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 28 January 2015 - 07:20 PM

I had to choose between the Subsee +10 and the Saga +10 and Kevin from Reef said that the quality is equal,
but the Saga +10 is considerable shorter and lighter but 40$ more expensive and not stackable.

As soon i have time to go alone diving to take pictures i will try the Subsee in the sea to get real world macro results.

I have already the flat 67mm treaded port and fortunately i have a old UWL100 here to screw on to try this combination.

If i make in time i may give it a try tomorrow (again) in the pool after i finish to conduct some classes.

Friday i should go to scan for a new wreck here and if we find it i will dive it with my new LX100 rig.

 

Chris




#357022 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 26 January 2015 - 04:07 PM

Thanks Moses, i am sure i will have fun with my new baby.
 

I got also the SubSee +10 macro lens and the flip adapter as you,

i will give it a try in the pool to redo your test to see how the SubSee behaves.

 

Chris