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Member Since 05 Mar 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 07:12 PM

#358500 Are you happy you changed from DX to FX?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 04 March 2015 - 04:27 AM

Yeah Alex Mustard,

you did a great job with this special port and i guess that we all hope that he becomes one day available for everybody!


#357628 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 09 February 2015 - 05:00 PM

Well, i went again to verify the pictures i took using the Nauticam Flip Adapter and the SubSee +10 Diopter and mounted the housing on two 4 pound weights to keep her put.

carefully sliding the weighted housing back and forth using manual focus i got a slighly better result than last time (4.5 centimetes and not 5.0 centimeters)

As i was already in the pool i tested also the flat, short 67mm threaded port + a old INON UWL - 100 wide angle wet lens wit 67mm tread.


Once again, i can't see any magnification difference in AF, AF macro or manual focus mode using the SubSee +10 diopter


LX100 generic port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 800
75mm no diopter





LX100 generic port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 2000
75mm SubSee +10 AF macro





LX100 generic port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
75mm SubSee +10 AF macro mode

In this picture i hold the SubSee directly on the glass to avoid the space between the flip holder and the port, not a big difference





LX100 flat 67mm threaded port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200

width of Image: +/- 4 meters
shooting distance: +/- 4.10 meters





LX100 flat 67mm threaded port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
(minimum zoom to avoid vignetting)

width of Image: unknown

shooting distance: +/- 4.10 meters




LX100 flat 67mm threaded port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
(minimum zoom to avoid vignetteing)

width of Image: 8.7 centimeters
shooting distance: +/- 3 centimeters


I took also a CFWA photo, but as it was almost dark and the UWL-100 almost hit the ruler the picture looks so bad that it offend the eye and i censored it.

In any case, with a shooting distance of approx 3 centimeters the photo is 8.7 centimeters wide


I think that i could get even more near, but the lens is dropping shadow on the ruler so i may need to redo the test with a back illuminated ruler



#357135 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 28 January 2015 - 07:20 PM

I had to choose between the Subsee +10 and the Saga +10 and Kevin from Reef said that the quality is equal,
but the Saga +10 is considerable shorter and lighter but 40$ more expensive and not stackable.

As soon i have time to go alone diving to take pictures i will try the Subsee in the sea to get real world macro results.

I have already the flat 67mm treaded port and fortunately i have a old UWL100 here to screw on to try this combination.

If i make in time i may give it a try tomorrow (again) in the pool after i finish to conduct some classes.

Friday i should go to scan for a new wreck here and if we find it i will dive it with my new LX100 rig.



#357022 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 26 January 2015 - 04:07 PM

Thanks Moses, i am sure i will have fun with my new baby.

I got also the SubSee +10 macro lens and the flip adapter as you,

i will give it a try in the pool to redo your test to see how the SubSee behaves.



#354177 Dome vs Wide Angle explain?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 09 November 2014 - 01:12 AM

if you can get a dome for your housing and the 12-50mm then this will be a better solution, as you will get a 33% increase in wide angle.
To get even more wide you need a wider lens and a dome to get the best out of it or a wet lens.
A wet lens is quality related the lesser solution, but give you the option to change it under water as not always you encounter what you have planned.
But triplecheck if you can mount a INON wetlens with it's dome on your housing and especially check that it works without:
- zooming to get rid of vignetting
- soft corners
- degraded image quality



#349152 Monitor Use

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 17 June 2014 - 12:35 AM


a external monitor is on my shopping list for 2 reasons:

1° i shoot more and more video with my D800 riga and a external monitor would e very helpful for that

2° my eyes become nearsighted and so a bigger monitor would help to have a better control over what i see and record

3° the bigger monitor would be helpful to take pictures with a rebreather as the big "mouthpiece" prevent to have the housing near in front of the eye


I belive that a external monitor with a zoom function would be very helpful and replace (for me) a viewfinder even if the optical quality is much lower.


I think that the main reason for the low use of external monitors is that good quality monitors are quite expensive and - if not using a tripod - make the camera harder to hold steady due it's additional weight.



#348903 New Hugyfot Hugycheck

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 10 June 2014 - 10:58 AM

Very nice!
This will greatly improve the already almost perfect Vacuum Leak Detector from Hugyfot!

P.S. I hope they change the location of the circuitboard

#346843 Trimming the buoyancy of your rig using float or float arms

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 27 April 2014 - 05:31 AM


Nothing off the shelf worked for our video rig, so we had to go DIY. We ended up carving up an EVA yoga block. It's very buoyant, durable and easy to work with... And a block providing about 2k of lift will put you back around £5!!


I bought THIS closed cell foam, cut it in stripes to fit my ULCS arms, covered them with a thin layer of marine expoy putty to make them more resistant,
cut them to the right size to have my rig in the worst sitation still about 150 grams positive.
Under tray or on the handles i add fishing weights to correct the different buoyancy of the various port/lens combinations to have my rig always 98% neutral.

I don't use a big dome anymore, but on my D90 Ikelite housing the dome had so much lift that the housing fliped always over to a very uncomfortable dome up position.
A shin stripe of lead (got it from a plumber) wraped around the extension ring of the dome balanced the whole rig and relaxed my before hurting wrists.

I am aware that this don't look very fancy or professional but it works great and i am fine with that look.





As the buoyancy is working fine i will glue and screw the single parts together and to the arms to eliminate this ugly looking zipties.
This armes travelled with me in checked luggage Sardinia-Oman-Costa Rica-Panama-Brazil and have approx 200 dives done and still looking "good"

#346340 acrylic vs. glass domes

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 16 April 2014 - 12:48 PM



I have always been using the acrylic Fisheye Dome Port 240. Underwater i can't see any problem, however when taking split level shots all the small scratches become VERY visible.

So, if you are a fan of split level shots...you might reconsider.


or try to shoot video against the sun with a microscratched acrylic dome and you will discover at home how much microscratches you have ...
While scratches on a Photo can be relatively easy photoshoped, this job is really hard to do on video.

#345075 Strobe recomendations for a Nikon D90 in an Iklelite housing - HELP PLEASE

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 26 March 2014 - 07:37 AM

The strobe what is working with virtually every camera optical or electrically triggered is the INON Z-240.

Powerful, rugged, able to work with almost any camera/housing combination and very fine output regulation.


#342133 Fin choice, etc.

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 20 January 2014 - 07:35 AM


there is a long tread regarding fins and what beople belive they are the right ons here:


As i wrote already in the tread above, it is my personal belive deriving from my experience wit several types of fins that:
- split fins dont work good for hovering and7or micro adjustments as they need some kicks to gain power
- long fins are generally better but will most likely destroy marinelife as they get banged to the bottom/rocks/reef
- rubber fins like the Bat/Turtle/jet fins are heavy (in your luggage and underwater, they can drag your legs down if you have heavy legs)

- if you use a drysuit with rubber fins, their weight is not a issue as you can modify your buoyancy introducing mor or less air in your legs

- Turtle and jet fins fins are very stiff and can lead to knee pain (at least for me)

- I personally use Mares Superchannel, Mares Avanti Quattrol+ and Jet fins for photographing

- i belive that shorter but wider fins are the best solution, for example: Dive Rite XP, Tusa Imprex, Zeagle Talon,


#339530 Are buoyancy arms generally needed with a setup?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 16 November 2013 - 01:46 AM

Hi Christine,

with your (heavy) Ikelite strobes you will most likely need floats.

You can use it without floats but it is very uncomfortable to dive and photograph with a camera rig beeing

negative and having the tendency to tip over. When i changed to floats and got my rig perfectly neutral i discovered that

my hand joints dont' necessary have to hurt after a dive with my camera.
Also using the big dome port or a plan port will change the buoyancy and you should be able to add or remove floats

to keep your rig neutral.
My solution is that the rig is always floating and if i should change port i just add some small weights to compensate the different buoyancy.


#338054 Recommended New Laptop choices for editing RAW files

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 12 October 2013 - 09:47 AM

As i travel a lot i don't have a PC anymore, i just use a powerful Laptop - a Lenovo W510 high-end Model - for all my business and private jobs, including editing 75mb D800 files and video editing for GoPro 4K and D800 video files abou 25'000 pictures and videos

managed in a massive Lightroom database.

After several brands like Dell, Toshiba and HP i choosed 2008 a IBM T61 laptop and from then on i stick with IBM/Lenovo

as i belive that:
- they are sturdy, in all my travels including thousands of miles in bonebreaking and dusty pothole roads or on humid, salty boats or shores
- they survive several misshaps like dropping (yesterday f.e.) and minor spills
- have a excelent non-glare screen to work/play outdoors
- offer high-end graphic cards
- have the best laptop keyboard
- have the possibility to use 2 hard disks (i just got a new 1TB SSD and have another 1GB 7200 Hard Disk in it)
- they offer true workstation power as far a Laptop can do

- some models have built in colormeter


I use a Intel Core7 1.73 Ghz quad processor and 8GB ram and 2 1TB disks (+ SSD and one 7200rpm hard disk)


I will soon change to the new Lenovo W540 model with the latest and fastes processor and GPU.


Yes, a carefully choosen and assembled PC is probably faster than a Notebook, but it simply don't fit my needs as a gipsy.


#337361 Asking for your views on strobes for Nikon D7000 in Nauticam Housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 22 September 2013 - 11:44 PM

Due to their small size and a very close working distance, a couple of inches at most, I thought that twin Ikelite 161's delivering "super even 500 lumen video light" would supply more than enough light?

Yes, they will provide enough light for illuminating pygmy sea horses and all other macro stuff from very near,

but sooner or later you will get real video lights as the power is simply far away from doing more than close focus macro.
The DS-161 has a video angle coverage of 45° similar to a torch and not like a video light and this lead you to need to position

your DS-161 micrometric to avoid ugly hotspots and/or shadows.


A L&M Sola 1200 for example (or any wide beam and dimmable dive torch) will be a much better and flexible option for macro video.




P.S. Have also a look here: http://www.scubaboar...s161-movie.html

#337296 Asking for your views on strobes for Nikon D7000 in Nauticam Housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 21 September 2013 - 10:04 PM

I use 2-3 INON Z-240 strobes on my Hugyfot D7000 and D800 rig and trigger them optically.

They have a rather sensible sensor so they can be used to trigger from distance without cables

if the sensor will receive the light from the main strobe. 

Usually i leave them in s-TTL and adjust output with the right dial if needed, but they have a lot

of options for automatic, semi-automatic and manual exposure control.

I would non change them with any other strobe as they:
are powerful - small - light but sturdy - adapt to almost any camera - simply work - well priced


I still have a Ikelite DS-125 strobe and it is a nice strobe but bulky and heavy and when i bought it new

the strobe tube was not working ans so i had to ship it on my expenses back to the USA and back to Roatan.


For doing nice video work under water you need power, and a lot of it. I have 2 Mangrove 4300 lumen lights 

and the illuminate not more than 3 feet far under ambient light condition and we are testing now 2 9000 lumen lights

and they seem to have enough power for every situation use.
Be careful comparing lumen value, depending on the concentration of the beam the lumen value increase and decrease,

but as you probably want a at least 100° beam you will need a massive amount of lumen to illuminate a reef scene at 30 ft

at 11 in the morning.