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ChrigelKarrer

Member Since 05 Mar 2010
Offline Last Active May 25 2018 02:51 PM
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#394560 Post Processing Software Advice

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 19 April 2018 - 07:04 AM

I started with Lightroom 1 and have now the current versin of CC.
I tried some other software but always returned to Lightroom, probably because i am lazy and like LR.

 

Regarding Photoshop, i have now LightRoom, Photoshop and Illustrator as a bundle plus Photoshop and Premiere Elements, so i use Photoshop as heavy editing solution.

You can safe some money downloading the opensurce, freeware GIMP, a very nice and old Photoshop clone.

 

Chris
 




#394243 Which flash arms to buy?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 09 April 2018 - 08:39 AM

You need:
1° a tray to screw on the bottom of your housing (careful when screwing it on, if the screw is too long you may crack the plastik)
2° a system to attach the arm on the tray (ball adapter or flex arm adapter)

3° a arm, either a rigid aluminium arm or a flex arm (flex arms are more simple for small housings)
4° clamps to attach the arm on both sides to the trax and to the strobe ball adapter

 

Chris




#393969 What's wrong with my settings ? (Canon g7x mark II and Inon s2000)

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 01 April 2018 - 05:33 AM

 

Plan a dive to sit in one spot for 15+mins and experiment with exposure and flash settings. Set everything to manual and play around. Find what works for a given subject (even just a rock...) then switch to TTL and see if you can replicate it.

 

What i do if ei either have a new camera or tracking down a problem is to use my pool at it offers shallow depths, long bottom times, no deco and clear water.
You may buy a bag of small plastic dinosaurus, insects, figures and use them as models, they are pacient...
Some of them float, so you may stick/glue them on a tile to avoid that they move around.
Chris




#393706 What's wrong with my settings ? (Canon g7x mark II and Inon s2000)

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 23 March 2018 - 05:45 AM

Well,
There is some light from the strobe, the cuttlefish photo shows that, so it seems that the strobe is triggered the right way.
Consider also that the S-2000 is a very small and not very strong strobe and will not illuminate for a longer distance,
that may be the case of the picture of the turtle.

 

1/100  -  ISO 120 - f8 and the strobe setup was STTL, B

1/100 - Iso 120 - f/8 was probably on the low side and the pictures is slightly underexposed.
Try to shoot agan in automatic mode, either ISO Auto or aperture auto and lock speed at 160/sec to avoid microunsharpness.
This should show if the sTTL is working right or not.

 

Chris

 

Set the camera strobe output to lowest and make sure you have no EV correction set.




#366688 not so noticeable carrying case for air travel?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 01 November 2015 - 05:18 AM

Just use a cheap, common hard suitcase with a lockable snaps (not zippers!) as they will blend in the other cheap, common suitcases.

NEVER use dive bags, photo bags, pelicases or anything expensive looking or with photo, dive or any other stickers on it.

I use those and fill them with my clothes, dive gear, housings or the delicate rebreatherparts  inside a Pelicase for added protection.
Domes, Ports, cameras, hard disks, chargers, etc goes in a Photo backpack as carry-on.

Chris




#365951 Travelling with full SLR set up in hand luggage, Any issues?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 06 October 2015 - 06:05 AM

I am used to travel with my photo gear as follows:

1 Loewepro Vortex 300 Photo backpack as carry-on containing:

- one Nikon D800 body + one Nikon 70-200mm 2.8 + one Nikon 24-70mm 2.8 + one Nikon  105mm VR + one Sigma 15mm + 1 Nikon SB-800
- one  Hugyfot glass minidome
- two INON Z-240 strobes

- one Nauticam LX100 housing

- several hard disks, chargers, cables, spare parts
- one HP ZBook 17 laptop

Weight is 18-20 Kilos

 

as checked baggage inside a torn suitcase containing:
one 1520 Pelicase containing one Hugyfot D800 housing filled with spare arts, one Hugyfot 100mm planport, four 8cm. ULCS armsa, clamps, floats
one 3mm long wetsuit, fins, OMS Travelight BCD, optical mask, fins, regulator

Weight 23-30 Kilos

 

In any case:

- I would get a backpack for delicate and electronic gear as carry-on and put the Peilicase inside the luggage

- be prepared to unwrap everything and repack at the security check, so stow wisely and planned

- triplecheck that your flights allow more than 8 kilo carry-on as here in Europe 8 kilo and less than IATA  carry-on size limit becomes more and more normal

 

Chris
 




#365767 Reflecting problem

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 01 October 2015 - 07:21 AM

As Davide said:

a) cover the writings with a black,matte tape but be careful that it dont comes off under water and especially that it can't get get catched between the moving lens
b) paint it black with a Sharpie or similar

 

I personally would (and done it) paint it black

 

It is a common problem with some lenses with writing on the front of the lens

 

Chris




#365713 White balance Underwater

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 30 September 2015 - 12:19 AM

Dilma,

 

you should post a picture showing your problem to avoid that we guess about your problem.

 

Just guessing i add: Are you sure that your strobe is syncronize with the camera?

The strobe may fire but in the wrong moment so the picture will be all blue as it get no illumiation from the strobe.
If the pictures are all blue while using your Sola Video 2100 then there is a problem with the settings of your camera.

I had the D7000 and using 2 INON Z-240 strobes i never had blue pictures, except the strobe did not fire or the motiv was too far away.

 

As String mentioned: If you are shooting wide angle the YS-D1 ttl system may be fooled by the high ambient light and not giving enough power to illuminate a fish from below shooting upwards.

 

Chris




#365604 Keldan 8M CRI or 8X

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 27 September 2015 - 01:20 AM

Hi,

thanks for your replys!

 

He is not doing caves, sometimes our wrecks, but mainly reefs and colorful stuff and he is not interested in cyan, red or UV heads.

 

Just simple white light for shooting everything.

 

When i am remembering right;
every double increase of illumination power increases the illumination distance one forth moore in clear water.
So going from 5000 lumen to 10'000 lumen should give 5 ft. of illumination distance than 4 ft' with 5000 lumen.

 

I understand that this is just a raw calculation and depend greatly of visibility/clearness.

 

Thanks

 

Chris




#363618 Is TTL possible with Panasonic LX100 and Nauticam housing?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 26 July 2015 - 10:17 AM

I use 2 INON Z-240 with my LX100 in a Nauticam housing and they work great in sTTL with fiberoptic cable.

To be honest, i have no idea how the S+S work and what setting must be set to make it work.

Chris




#361971 another strobe or 105mm

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 08 June 2015 - 09:55 PM

I agree with ErrBrr,

if you can have good viz to do wide angle, a second strobe, if viz is mostly limited and not too much surge then switch over to macro.

As far as i know Australia has a lot of macro life (as everywhere) you just have to teach your eyes and have the patience to spot it!

Chris




#361868 Does a harness bcd improve shooting uw?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 05 June 2015 - 09:50 PM

I dive only wings, Zeagle Ranger and OMS FeatherWight.

The Zeagle is very very sturdy (mine have 1000+ dives on it) and comfortable, but very heavy while the OMS is a very light wing, perfect for traveling.

 

Regarding your question: what makes improving shooting photos and protecting the environment from you is the right buoyancy!

You can achieve thet wit a) experience and b) right wighted and correct weight distribution while the type of BCD is not really so important.

I personally prefer the wing type bcd for several reasons and to be honest, i have some problems with trim for the first minutes when i use a traditional bcd.

 

If you want a for-your-lifetime BCD then i suggest you a Zeagle Ranger, but due it's weight and size it's not very appropriate for traveling by plane.

 

Chris




#361335 Locline. Does it always creak?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 20 May 2015 - 01:01 AM

I normally use ULCS arms, but i agree with OP that continous positioning of clam arms is annoying.

I used 3/4 Locline arms and i most likely will buy another set for my small Nauticam LX100 rig as i use it mostly

while guiding to document special moments and often i don't have time to position the clamps and bending a locline arm is much quicker.

Also the vantage of Locline arms is that you can bend them around your housing to streamline the rig and that is important as i usually have it tucked under my armpit.
Another vantage is that you quickly can break them apart (and reconnect them) to use the strobe/lamp to illuminate from back or other far positions.

 

Regarding creak, yes they do creak, some more and some less and there is not very much to do. Silicon or dry Teflon spray may help with creak, but i fear that it will make them floppy.
Keep in mind that Locline elemets can be bought inexpensive as they are basically a rigid hose and often used to feed cooling fluid on milling machines and there are several types of them.
the only parts you need is the adapter to your tray and the adapter to your strobe or video light, more elements can be found in (online) tool shops

 

Davide DB: i think that Locline arms will bend/turn back on your scooter

 

Chris




#360997 SubSee for D800 in Hugyfot housing?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 11 May 2015 - 05:57 AM

Hi there!

 

Soon i will be back in Sardinia where my D800 housing is waiting patiently to get wet.

As i bought a SubSee +10 67mm tread macro wet lens for my LX100, i would like to know if somebody uses this combination and if so if he reccommend to get the holder.

 

Camera:  Nikon D800
Lens:      Nikon 105mm VRII
Housing: Hugyfot

Port:       Hugyfot 100mm diameter flat port

There are some 67mm holders for the above mentioned port available, but i don't want to pay for it to discover that it's not working good.

 

Thanks!

Chris




#360817 Good High Power Video Lights?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 05 May 2015 - 06:45 AM

I have:
2 Mangrove 4400 lumen 120° video light
1 FIX Neos 2500 DX 100° video light for macro video

2 Hartenberger Mega Compact Video 35 watt HID (my buddy's rig)

 

I saw the Keldane 5000 and the FIX Acquavolt 7000 at Reef Photo and Video in Ft. Lauderdale.
The Keldane are excellent built, swiss made lights, some of them a bit bulky due their dome, excellent CRI, 90° beam with soft falloff
The FIX acquavolt 7000 is smaller (as far i remember), not so sophisticated but extremely bright and wide (115°), spotless beam (as the Keldane as well)

Consider two things:
- a lot of manufacturers use Lumen as value and that can be misleading as Lumen depend on the width of the beam. A xxx lumen light at 120° beam with is much less bright than the same light at 80° beam with!
- Lamps with higher lumen are bigger and more heavy considering the same battery duration of a lower lumen light, this can be a issue when traveling

 

2500 lumen 120° lamps illuminate about 40 centimeters

4000 lumen 120° lamps illuminate about 50/60 centimeters
Both is measured at 12 meter at 11 a.m. sunny summer day in crystal clear Sardinian sea

4400 lumen illuminate nice and wide a cave or at night dives

 

To illuminate a shark and/or restore it's color at 2 Meter distance and 120° beam i guess you probably need 10'000 lumen or 80-100° beam and 600-8000 lumen.

 

If i would buy new video lights i would go with the Keldane!

 

Chris