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Member Since 05 Mar 2010
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#359662 Hyperfocal distance for Lumix LX100?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 05 April 2015 - 08:08 AM

Google was my friend and i found this interesting review of the LX100: http://vid305.com/v?i=7DDmuRBgBK4
As he says, hyperfocal distance should be set to 5 ft and this will give a DOF from 2.5 ft - infinite @ f/5.6

That sound a bit strange (or too good to be true) to me ...



#359363 LX100 Underwater Video - Anyone else have experience with the LX100

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 29 March 2015 - 07:37 AM


thanks for your input on magic (or whatever other brand) filters and Magic Filters are a excellent product!
Me and my camera man did a try with a red filter on "our" WWII wreck back in Sardinia and the result was very nice.

We used a semi professional Canon video camera and no video lights and the footage had much more contrast in the footage and almost perfect original colors (as we see it).
As far as i understand any red/pink filter will create a color change if you use artificial illumination (video lights, torches) and color correcting filters are mainly for use in ambient light.
This may work fine in clear waters and in the first 10-20 feet of depth, but due the lower light deeper it will affect negatively shutter speed and/or f/stops and as artificial lighting is not

possible it will not show the true color of corals, fishes, sea fans, etc.
The second issue with color correcting filters is that to make them work you need to stick on a certain depth where the color of the filter works as it best,

this could be solved with external wet filters to be able to change them under water.

From my point - as a old school photographer - i prefer to use strobes for photography and high power video lamps for video footage, but this is my personal belief and way of doing it.



#359336 LX100 Underwater Video - Anyone else have experience with the LX100

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 28 March 2015 - 10:40 AM

i made it to upload the 4K macro video, all Panasonic LX100 and most with the SubSee +10 diopter.



The rough conditions here and the limited viz combined with my limited knowledge of video editing did not produced a great video,

but it show the capability of the camera.


Yes, working the LX100 in manual mode would produce much better videos and most in this video are recorded in manual mode,

but in high surge/current and low viz condition make manual recording not very easy.

Also, the autofocus is working well but with moving motives it tend to be to fast and start to focus somewhere else,
but that may be also some settings who give better results.


Regarding the iA button,

this function comes handy when you take pictures with f/16 1/500 sec and something fast and special shows up,
so just pushing the iA button is much quicker than regulate f stop, time and ISO to get the correct exposure.


Regarding Manual Mode:
I use the LX100 in manual mode for macro pictures, f/16 and 1/250/1/500 sec and my INON Z-240 will decide the correct amount of strobe power, works perfect!

My lack in knowledge recording video makes it in this moment difficult to use the camera in manual for video work and most of my videos are more "snippets" to upload

on YouTube or post in FaceBook. For high-end movies, my buddy and best friend Carlo are doing them for me and i am learning from him.


The FIX Neos 2500 DX gives plenty of a wide spread beam so a aperture of f/16 is not a problem for macro and near motives.


I am very excited to try the camera back home in Sardinia where surge and current is not a issue and water is usually gin clear.

Well, if i manage it timewise  i may go 2-3 weeks to Utila or Mexio to do the Rebreather Instructor Course and there i will have a lot of fun too.

My Poseidon SE7EN and this camera would be a killer combination (for it's size)



#359316 LX100 Underwater Video - Anyone else have experience with the LX100

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 27 March 2015 - 07:02 PM


Yeah, kkfok, you are right, that was the wrong video :o
I uploaded a new one made with the LX100 and i am working on a macro video in 4K to show the quality,

but the size in 4K is 1.7GB, too much to upload with the slow lines in Costa Rica.
Also to do macro with a +10 diopter with 2-10 ft swells is not a very easy task to tackle down...



Sorry for that!



#359294 LX100 Underwater Video - Anyone else have experience with the LX100

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 27 March 2015 - 07:35 AM

I do a lot of videos with the LX100 here in Costa Rica and i did not noticed a particular degradation of quality at higher ISO.
What i learned is to use the I-Movie automatic function instead of manual exposure as this gives better results for point and shoot situations,

especially in situations with very high contrasts.

As long there is enough light to illuminate the scene correctly the camera produces smooth pictures in manual with F/16 for macro and in my case it was

a Fix Neos 2500 DX or the Z-240 pilot light with the white diffusor.

Examples are here:

https://youtu.be/jZ_AbKknaPQ  (Z-240 focus light)
https://youtu.be/2aXQTN9PY8A (90ft deep, low light conditions, no additional light)


Both videos have only little corrections and i am not the great video tweaker...



I have several other macro scenes, but i have so much to do that i barely find the time to edit them.

#358500 Are you happy you changed from DX to FX?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 04 March 2015 - 04:27 AM

Yeah Alex Mustard,

you did a great job with this special port and i guess that we all hope that he becomes one day available for everybody!


#357628 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 09 February 2015 - 05:00 PM

Well, i went again to verify the pictures i took using the Nauticam Flip Adapter and the SubSee +10 Diopter and mounted the housing on two 4 pound weights to keep her put.

carefully sliding the weighted housing back and forth using manual focus i got a slighly better result than last time (4.5 centimetes and not 5.0 centimeters)

As i was already in the pool i tested also the flat, short 67mm threaded port + a old INON UWL - 100 wide angle wet lens wit 67mm tread.


Once again, i can't see any magnification difference in AF, AF macro or manual focus mode using the SubSee +10 diopter


LX100 generic port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 800
75mm no diopter





LX100 generic port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 2000
75mm SubSee +10 AF macro





LX100 generic port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
75mm SubSee +10 AF macro mode

In this picture i hold the SubSee directly on the glass to avoid the space between the flip holder and the port, not a big difference





LX100 flat 67mm threaded port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200

width of Image: +/- 4 meters
shooting distance: +/- 4.10 meters





LX100 flat 67mm threaded port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
(minimum zoom to avoid vignetting)

width of Image: unknown

shooting distance: +/- 4.10 meters




LX100 flat 67mm threaded port f/16 1/60 sec ISO 3200
(minimum zoom to avoid vignetteing)

width of Image: 8.7 centimeters
shooting distance: +/- 3 centimeters


I took also a CFWA photo, but as it was almost dark and the UWL-100 almost hit the ruler the picture looks so bad that it offend the eye and i censored it.

In any case, with a shooting distance of approx 3 centimeters the photo is 8.7 centimeters wide


I think that i could get even more near, but the lens is dropping shadow on the ruler so i may need to redo the test with a back illuminated ruler



#357135 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 28 January 2015 - 07:20 PM

I had to choose between the Subsee +10 and the Saga +10 and Kevin from Reef said that the quality is equal,
but the Saga +10 is considerable shorter and lighter but 40$ more expensive and not stackable.

As soon i have time to go alone diving to take pictures i will try the Subsee in the sea to get real world macro results.

I have already the flat 67mm treaded port and fortunately i have a old UWL100 here to screw on to try this combination.

If i make in time i may give it a try tomorrow (again) in the pool after i finish to conduct some classes.

Friday i should go to scan for a new wreck here and if we find it i will dive it with my new LX100 rig.



#357022 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 26 January 2015 - 04:07 PM

Thanks Moses, i am sure i will have fun with my new baby.

I got also the SubSee +10 macro lens and the flip adapter as you,

i will give it a try in the pool to redo your test to see how the SubSee behaves.



#354177 Dome vs Wide Angle explain?

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 09 November 2014 - 01:12 AM

if you can get a dome for your housing and the 12-50mm then this will be a better solution, as you will get a 33% increase in wide angle.
To get even more wide you need a wider lens and a dome to get the best out of it or a wet lens.
A wet lens is quality related the lesser solution, but give you the option to change it under water as not always you encounter what you have planned.
But triplecheck if you can mount a INON wetlens with it's dome on your housing and especially check that it works without:
- zooming to get rid of vignetting
- soft corners
- degraded image quality



#349152 Monitor Use

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 17 June 2014 - 12:35 AM


a external monitor is on my shopping list for 2 reasons:

1° i shoot more and more video with my D800 riga and a external monitor would e very helpful for that

2° my eyes become nearsighted and so a bigger monitor would help to have a better control over what i see and record

3° the bigger monitor would be helpful to take pictures with a rebreather as the big "mouthpiece" prevent to have the housing near in front of the eye


I belive that a external monitor with a zoom function would be very helpful and replace (for me) a viewfinder even if the optical quality is much lower.


I think that the main reason for the low use of external monitors is that good quality monitors are quite expensive and - if not using a tripod - make the camera harder to hold steady due it's additional weight.



#348903 New Hugyfot Hugycheck

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 10 June 2014 - 10:58 AM

Very nice!
This will greatly improve the already almost perfect Vacuum Leak Detector from Hugyfot!

P.S. I hope they change the location of the circuitboard

#346843 Trimming the buoyancy of your rig using float or float arms

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 27 April 2014 - 05:31 AM


Nothing off the shelf worked for our video rig, so we had to go DIY. We ended up carving up an EVA yoga block. It's very buoyant, durable and easy to work with... And a block providing about 2k of lift will put you back around £5!!


I bought THIS closed cell foam, cut it in stripes to fit my ULCS arms, covered them with a thin layer of marine expoy putty to make them more resistant,
cut them to the right size to have my rig in the worst sitation still about 150 grams positive.
Under tray or on the handles i add fishing weights to correct the different buoyancy of the various port/lens combinations to have my rig always 98% neutral.

I don't use a big dome anymore, but on my D90 Ikelite housing the dome had so much lift that the housing fliped always over to a very uncomfortable dome up position.
A shin stripe of lead (got it from a plumber) wraped around the extension ring of the dome balanced the whole rig and relaxed my before hurting wrists.

I am aware that this don't look very fancy or professional but it works great and i am fine with that look.





As the buoyancy is working fine i will glue and screw the single parts together and to the arms to eliminate this ugly looking zipties.
This armes travelled with me in checked luggage Sardinia-Oman-Costa Rica-Panama-Brazil and have approx 200 dives done and still looking "good"

#346340 acrylic vs. glass domes

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 16 April 2014 - 12:48 PM



I have always been using the acrylic Fisheye Dome Port 240. Underwater i can't see any problem, however when taking split level shots all the small scratches become VERY visible.

So, if you are a fan of split level shots...you might reconsider.


or try to shoot video against the sun with a microscratched acrylic dome and you will discover at home how much microscratches you have ...
While scratches on a Photo can be relatively easy photoshoped, this job is really hard to do on video.

#345075 Strobe recomendations for a Nikon D90 in an Iklelite housing - HELP PLEASE

Posted by ChrigelKarrer on 26 March 2014 - 07:37 AM

The strobe what is working with virtually every camera optical or electrically triggered is the INON Z-240.

Powerful, rugged, able to work with almost any camera/housing combination and very fine output regulation.