Mooseman1007

I have the 10bar adapter myself with a pair of AD mount macro lenses attached direct to the olympus macro adapter on my EPL-2 and that works fine. Seem to remember trying the AD mount lenses plus adapter on my fiance's EPL3 directly but getting some vignetting issues, though this may not be a problem with the 165 screw in first as you describe.
Mooseman

Excellent Pics again Spencer, love the macro shot especially.
Youll be glad to know the EPL3 is going strong and heading off to Egypt in a weeks time for another soaking :-)
Dave

Did you eventually sell the Insect eye lens ? The macro lenses worked a treat in Lembeh...much easier than screw threads underwater. Cheers

Dave

That price is for the lens only and not the AD adaptor that comes with mine (another £50 in the UK). My lens is virtually brand new having only done 2 dives. It is also in the UK, so any UK buyer doesnt have to worry about customs and international postage.

What would be the effect of moving a 67mm macro converter 20 mm's further away from the camera? ( PT-EPO5L housing

I am in the process of making another macro lighting "ring of light" and I can cut a 67mm thread on the front of the front of the lighting ring.


Also if anyone out there has a 67mm macro converter could you please measure the total diameter of it and let me know stating brand and model.

Thanks

I would guess the only major issue would be some vignetting, this is actually quite obvious a difference if I mount an Inon 165 macro lens on my EPL-2 (with the clip on macro adapter) versus my Fiances EPL-3 which has the inbuilt 67mm threads. I need to be zoomed in much closer to the 45mm end of the kit lens on the EPL2 to get over the vignetting compared to the EPL-3. Ill let you know the dimensions of the lens when I finish work.
Moose

Jacques

Just remember Its not about the quality of the gear, its about how you use it best. I have just upgraded from a Pana TZ10 which is only slightly more advanced than the ZS3. I find that leaving the ISO as low as possible is best, and keep white balance on auto (for flash) or cloudy/underwater (ambient). Put the strobe in TTL to begin with and remember GET CLOSE !

Moose

Good day all.

I tried posting this on other forums, but I am either ignore (snobed ? as my gear is not fancy) or being sold some "better" equipment! Darn, I just need help, not an invoice ;-)

I found your forum, and think that there are wise peoples here so here it goes.

I have a simple compact camera, with no manual mode of any kind (no full manual, no aperture priority, no shutter speed priority). It's a Lumix ZS3. Great lens, does ok pictures, but I needed a strobe.

Bought a good strobe (S&S YS-110a as I will move to dSLR very soon) that does D-TTL with the Lumix (or is it S-TTL or E-TTL, I don't know but it does TTL with the preflash via a fiber optic cable).

My question is simple : What settings should I use with the camera. Forced flash "ON", no focus light help, and lower ASA (like 100) is ok, but what's next ? Maybe WB to "sunny" ?

Please help me, I will be diving in Australia (Great Barrier Reef :-)))))) soon and need to figure this out!

Thanks.

Yes I am Jacques, but "Cousteau" is a nickname given to me by my friends as I am doing research about the oceans as a job, and I speak French (From Montreal) !