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troporobo

Member Since 23 Jul 2010
Offline Last Active Today, 01:48 PM
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#379308 Barracuda schooling

Posted by troporobo on Today, 12:21 AM

Nice shot - good composition and capture of ambient light top to bottom.  

 

I'd probably play around with the white balance a little more.  It looks too cool (too far to the blue end of the spectrum) to me.  Maybe also bump the contrast just a bit and see if you can deepen the shadows to make the school pop out against the background at the bottom.  

 

Otherwise, well done!




#379245 Diving the Salish Sea

Posted by troporobo on 30 November 2016 - 04:40 AM

Beautiful work!  The clarity, composition, and stability of your macro shots are exemplary. 

 

Thanks a lot for sharing.   As a PNW native and former Portlander / Seattleite who has been absent too long, I love this stuff.




#379227 First images

Posted by troporobo on 29 November 2016 - 03:35 PM

I understand a little better now.  

 

Your strobe is manual, so forget what I said about TTL.  But I think it does have some sort of a power dial, correct?  If so you'd probably want it set as high as possible (and be within 0.5 m) for backlit subjects.

 

As for setting the flash to fill, i meant within the *camera* settings, not on the flash.  That will reduce the power of the camera's on-board flash and maybe reduce backscatter.  But better if you can block it somehow.  




#379226 Buoyancy Floats

Posted by troporobo on 29 November 2016 - 03:24 PM

Having a project is cool, I get it.  I like the idea of a port collar if it could be made more "form fitting" than the commercial ones I've seen. 




#379208 Buoyancy Floats

Posted by troporobo on 29 November 2016 - 06:10 AM

Look, I'm a big believer in DIYing anything that I can, often just for fun.  I have built tube stereo gear and speakers, restored sports cars and cameras, built furniture, and made heaps of accessories for all kinds of hobbies.  I've lived in more than a few remote places where if I wanted something I had to make it, and did. I will often do things the hard way just to see if I can.   But this one escapes me.  Stix floats are about $6-8 each and a set of four costs less than a single dive in many places (and they provide a LOT of buoyancy but don't deform).  I don't readily piss in someone's Cheerios but I just don't get the claim of "expensive Buoyancy floats" or how you'd save much after ordering alternative materials.  I guess if its just for fun then what the heck, go for it.  

 

By the way, somewhere on one of the forums, there is a post about using an empty plastic soda bottle tethered to the housing as an improvised float.  Worth an experiment perhaps, maybe with a more aesthetic container like one of those aluminium sports bottles, perhaps duct taped to the tray?




#379207 First images

Posted by troporobo on 29 November 2016 - 05:59 AM

This fish portrait and first diver look good for a first outing, so well done.  However it looks like you might be using auto exposure on the camera and/or flash settings - correct me if wrong - and that may be why the subjects in the shots closer to the surface are under exposed.  The camera is metering for the big bright area that is the surface.

 

You may not be ready or willing to go full manual and that's OK.  I don't know your camera but assuming you are using TTL for the flash via fibre optic, can you set the camera to auto, and flash to "fill"?  And maybe switch metering to either spot or centre weighted?




#378722 OMD-EM5 won't always turn on

Posted by troporobo on 12 November 2016 - 11:01 PM

I have had this issue come up from time to time with my E-M5 as well.  I suspect the switch could be failing.  For some reason, removing and replacing the battery and SD card seems to help reset.  It might be complete voodoo but that's all I've got.  It also won't help if the camera's in the housing and you're 20 m below!




#378176 Using Olympus 60mm macro in Nauticam 12-50 flat port

Posted by troporobo on 27 October 2016 - 12:11 AM

Yes.  I use it this way regularly.  It works perfectly. 




#377415 Camera stealing giant pacific octopus

Posted by troporobo on 26 September 2016 - 04:24 PM

Looks like you need a longer lens with more working distance :)

 

Cool encounter though




#375797 Is this completely distracting....

Posted by troporobo on 03 August 2016 - 09:25 PM

I like the general idea, but I don't think this image quite works.  The split is executed well. Composition is OK and the backlighting on the model is nice, though I might have tried to get a little closer and put a bit more space between the sun and the model. However the sun flare overpowers everything, the model is almost lost as a result, and the UW scene is dull and lifeless (but I guess in SWFL that's a good thing!).  The lens reflection is indeed a distraction but very hard to avoid when looking straight into the sun.  

 

Now if you could just go back and get a ND filter on the sun, a remote strobe on your model, and move the whole UW scene to a colorful reef, you'd be all set ;-)




#375611 Inon S2000 for wide angle

Posted by troporobo on 28 July 2016 - 03:50 PM

Good point about diffusers.  If I was going to try a single strobe for WA, a dome diffuser would be high on my list.  They're made by Ikelite, LightDome, and others.  Here's one:

 

http://www.lightdome.works/

 

There was a WetPixel post on this tech here:

 

http://http://wetpix...trobe-diffusers




#375548 Inon S2000 for wide angle

Posted by troporobo on 26 July 2016 - 01:44 PM

They were shot using sTTL.  I don't have a wide angle brain yet and am still figuring out a lot of stuff so have not yet switched to manual.   




#375532 Inon S2000 for wide angle

Posted by troporobo on 26 July 2016 - 05:14 AM

I agree with your friend, except I would argue you need a pair of good strobes, not one

 

I am just starting to play around with WA, after years of shooting 95% macro.  I have a pair of S2000 strobes and took the following photos at 7mm on a m4/3 system.  They're not very good photos but they give an idea of the limits of those strobes.  Both shots were within a meter of the main subject and it is easy to see where the light starts to fall off, even though they were each on two 8" arms spread as wide as they would go.   

 

28484468871_b6878164f8.jpg

 

 

28484468561_9d6618564e.jpg

 

I am aiming for more close focus wide angle compositions so will keep trying with this combination, but would say that they are not well suited to true wide angle.  And one strobe would certainly not do the job for wide angle at all.




#374420 Supermacro light position

Posted by troporobo on 07 June 2016 - 09:39 PM

You want to move the lights forward, as close to the port as possible, then angle them to allow more direct top / side lighting. 

 

I'm not familiar with those lights but in general torches provide a lot less light than strobes, so they need to be close to the subject and you'll have to open up the aperture..




#374194 Canon 1dx Mark II - Philippines

Posted by troporobo on 01 June 2016 - 09:31 PM

Great macro work as always.  You got this stuff on your first outing with a new camera and housing?  Amazing. 

 

Although I really wish you had reached out for an assistant!  I would have driven down to carry your gear, just to watch and learn. How about next time?