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Nick Hope

Member Since 12 Sep 2004
Offline Last Active Aug 01 2015 06:41 PM

#361761 4K Cutterfish & octopus from Anilao

Posted by Nick Hope on 02 June 2015 - 10:45 PM

Good job Moses. I love the crab hanging onto the octopus.

#361760 Warna berwarna Raja Ampat by GH4

Posted by Nick Hope on 02 June 2015 - 10:33 PM

I just use the simple way cut the filter followed the shape of lens buttom and  just use the thin tape stick it with the lens.I didn't know that you can replace the lens bayonet like the one on 8mm fisheye.Please let me know if you know how's it work?

I also used Magic Tape the other day to stick some ND gel to the back of my 7-14mm. It's fiddly and inelegant, but works OK. Use Scotch Magic Tape, not Sellotape, so it doesn't leave a residue.
Look here for the story of fitting the 8mm filter holder to the back of the 7-14mm. You need Panasonic part number VXQ1911 (and possibly more), which might be difficult outside the USA. Also I recall that it's not just a straight swap. A bit of fiddling/fettling is required? If anyone plans to do this, please keep us informed how it goes and where you got the parts. I'm interested.

I use photo style CinelikeD with some adjusting Contrast +2 , Sharpness +2,Hue +5 and some post color editing in FCPX.

Those are really unconventional settings. Seems like most users are reducing contrast and sharpness, and leaving hue at 0. But anyway if it works, it works. Here I'm still using Natural -2/-2/-2/0/0, and adding contrast and sharpness in post. I sometimes feel like just going with totally default Standard.
p.s. Olympus M.ZUIKO Digital ED 7-14mm f/2.8 PRO Lens coming end of June. USD 1299 ;)  I wonder if Nauticam supports it.

#361338 Locline. Does it always creak?

Posted by Nick Hope on 20 May 2015 - 02:11 AM

Nick, why you want to adapt Gorillapod and not use simple locline parts? Are they different?

Because of the noise! They creak (not "crack") when you move them like a very loud door in a haunted house. Fellow divers don't like it and some marine life doesn't either.


Locline is hollow. Gorillapod is solid and doesn't creak.

#361274 Locline. Does it always creak?

Posted by Nick Hope on 19 May 2015 - 02:29 AM

...On the mirrorless line they havent the upper metal connection like on DSRL line, hence all the weight applies on two small screws in the handle body...

The GH4 housing is more like Nauticam's DSLR housings, and does have the metal bracket at the top, but the metal doesn't necessarily prevent breakage of the handle: https://www.facebook...647118352167898

I saw some clamps produced by an Italian company that have the inner part covered with a synthetic material. They are very smooth but I do not know with aging...

Looks like cork to me. I suspect that might get chewed up if it's moved while tight on a ball with an o-ring. Any idea what the manufacturer is called?

#361266 Locline. Does it always creak?

Posted by Nick Hope on 18 May 2015 - 11:32 PM

Thanks for the replies and to SwiftFF5 for the kind words.


What do you not like about arm and clamps?...


I simply don't like the time taken to get the lights in position. 3 clamps on each light arm plus the clamps on the lights' YS mounts all come into play. It's just a lot more work than a Locline type of solution, and risks missing shots. All that on top of getting Xit404 tripod legs into position, and occasionally a 3rd light. On some shots I'm literally dealing with 20 things that I might have to adjust and tighten.


When the balls and clamps on my light arms were new I was often able to set them to just the right tightness that allowed them to move but not flop. Now the clamps are aging and are losing their finish, they're not as smooth and that's more difficult. I'm actually wondering about greasing them.


...Generally if your beams are not so wide you only need 10" of arms and locline are just fine. If instead you have very wide beams you need much longer arms. What you should consider are small arm segments such as 5+3 For ball and clamp you don't need anything longer with your Keldan


I disagree with this. I wouldn't want to go shorter than 8"+8" for my Keldans. Not only do the Keldans have very wide beams (110 degrees - one reason that I'm looking to replace them with narrower lights for macro), but I want the flexibility of positioning that the long arms give. 5"+3" for me would be too limiting. I also need the buoyancy of my long Inon mega float arms.

#361212 Locline. Does it always creak?

Posted by Nick Hope on 18 May 2015 - 12:25 AM

I'm not getting on very well using arms with clamps for video. They drive me a bit mad. So I'm considering "bendy arm" solutions again. I've used Locline arms in the past but it creaked so loudly, disturbing both marine life and my fellow divers. I've also made DIY light arms out of plastic Gorillapod, but all the joints gradually went floppy.


Has anyone used strong, chunky Locline that doesn't creak or flop? If so, exactly what was the spec and where did you get it?


Any other clever solutions for bendy light arms?


(I'm using Keldan Luna 4X now but might change to something smaller and lighter for macro)

#360602 Does my color right? Nusa Penida WA shoot with GH4

Posted by Nick Hope on 28 April 2015 - 11:00 PM

At a glance, your underwater clips, apart from the manta ray, are lacking in green. Which is the same as saying too purple.


Learn and use your video scopes as soon as you can, so you really understand what effect your adjustments are having; especially to see when any clipping occurs.

#360399 New UW challenger for the Shogun.....

Posted by Nick Hope on 22 April 2015 - 11:27 PM

#360258 Color Grading in Premiere Pro, would you use it?

Posted by Nick Hope on 18 April 2015 - 08:29 PM

#360058 Betty Bomber - Truk

Posted by Nick Hope on 14 April 2015 - 07:59 PM

Nice job Dustin! The exposure/colours/grading looks great.


I didn't think of it while I watching, but there were a couple of moments where I was struggling to understand how big it was, particularly the wide overhead shot at 2:20, where it could be anything from Spitfire size to jumbo jet size. So I agree that a diver or two in shot would have helped.


Also, people in underwater videos usually helps the view count. "People-doing-amazing/adventurous-things" videos are hits on YouTube/Vimeo because viewers relate to the divers in the shots. Escapism!


For me, the music was slightly too epic for the scale of the subject. But as we know, music is really subjective, difficult to find, and you can't please all the people all the time.

#360057 Macro Video of Saddleback Clownfish Eggs in Anilao

Posted by Nick Hope on 14 April 2015 - 07:44 PM

Hi Nick,

Looks great.

One question, Is it sharpened in post?


Thanks! Yes EunJae. Default 0.5 in Sony Sharpen in Vegas Pro 12/13, apart from the most cropped closeup where I used 0.7. I did my sharpening before doing colour correction with Color Curves.

#359599 How would you shoot this scene?

Posted by Nick Hope on 04 April 2015 - 03:02 AM

If possible I'd move the camera to where it can see the eel's burrow (i.e. higher or closer than you have it). I'd aim for something like F14. Small aperture without being so small that you get diffraction. I'd focus on the sand at what I guess to be the same distance from the camera as the eel's head will be (i.e. A bit closer than what you have it). Then I'd hope for the best and possibly even try to adjust focus to the eel's head once it's out of the burrow. I'd probably shoot a few takes, refocusing between each. Finally I'd probably swear a lot and move onto the next subject.

#358476 Chariot of Fire - Fire Urchins with Coleman Shrimps, Zebra Crabs & Urchin...

Posted by Nick Hope on 03 March 2015 - 06:02 AM

Not quite sure what happened here... Wanted to try something different and it turned into this pompous piece.

Coleman shrimps (Periclimenes colemani), urchin shrimps (Allopontonia brockii), and zebra crabs (Zebrida adamsii) live and travel on fire urchins (Asthenosoma varium) in Anilao, Philippines.


Shot with my Panasonic GH4 in a Nauticam NA-GH4 housing. I used an Olympus M.Zuiko ED 12-50mm f3.5-6.3 EZ lens and 60mm f2.8 macro lens.

Err... feedback welcome... I think... :unsure:

#358036 GH4 - Nauticam Macro Lens/Port Thoughts

Posted by Nick Hope on 18 February 2015 - 09:17 PM

Hmm... I wonder if I can assign buttons to do the zoom on my Olympus 12-50 and do a similar mod to change the zoom knob to a focus knob... In any case I'm interested in this mod and it could be enough to make me switch lenses to the PZ 14-42.

In my experience so far auto focus for macro has been an irritating, inaccurate workaround that has resulted in half of my footage making a quick exit to the recycle bin. I'm confident a manual focus knob will help hugely. But I need to review how I'm doing my auto focus. How are you guys doing it exactly?

By the way, I've ordered the Dive and See 7" monitor.

#357731 GH4 - Nauticam Macro Lens/Port Thoughts

Posted by Nick Hope on 11 February 2015 - 07:16 PM

Very rough test with the Olympus 60mm macro in the housing in air. Minimum size to fill the frame:

60mm only: 13mm subject at 5cm distance
Subsee +5: 10mm subject at 2.5cm distance
Subsee +10: 9mm subject at 1.5cm distance
Subsee +5 and +10: 10mm at whatever range (working distance just 0 to 3cm)

Personal Conclusion: Worth taking the Subsee +10 alone for a bit more magnification (about 30%), but not really the +5.

Basically wet diopters seem of more value for non-macro lenses.

Remember that lighting becomes an issue when you get this close.

I'm not a good enough physicist to know how relevant this test was to performance underwater.

Would love some comparisons with the Nauticam SMC, CMC and the Aquako +15.