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hellhole

Member Since 05 Oct 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:13 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Problem syncing ys-d2 flash

30 April 2018 - 07:27 AM

No the flash is not firing. Yes it must be an optical cable

U need the flash of your camera to fire then the fiber optic cable can carry that light to your strobe to 'fire' the strobe

In Topic: Who is excited about Blackmagic Pocket Cinema 4K?

11 April 2018 - 06:26 AM

If there is an housing to be built... they need to add a way to add a power brick to it.. ala the nauticam 6500(?) housing

In Topic: The DSLR / Compact Dilema

14 March 2018 - 06:43 AM

If you do not intend to shoot any super micro. Then you can stay with your g12.

In Topic: Wetpixel strobe review

23 February 2018 - 07:35 PM

 
This is very interesting and there was certainly no such notice with the strobes supplied for this review. Could you take a picture of it?
 
I can state that I have seriously violated this guideline repeatedly and there has been no obvious negative effect on the Z330s or their performance! I did 4 back to back battery tests of the strobes, cycling at full power soon as the ready light appeared... that's around 1000 flashes with no break in between!
 
In terms of guide numbers,  I think we should, in this instance, perhaps simply look at them as a non specific and hence fairly generic way of comparing strobe output. As mentioned, I was quoting manufacturers specifications, which (I think) did not list units.
 
I note that the unit is Ws rather then W/s and thank you for this correction.
 
Adam

Here...0db13652a090e38c9bc4633dc0ce3bed.jpg

In Topic: Nauticam Vacuum valve - how much vacuum?

20 February 2018 - 08:35 AM

The following is personal experience only.
 
I was an early adopter of a vacuum system on a Nauticam housing. I had a leak/ vac sensor in my original NA-D90 housing (and now a NA-D800 with leak/vac sensor) so I added a Housing Sentry vacuum plug which came with a MiniVac manual pump with a gauge.
While this is (I believe) a brake fluid tool originally, and I do not know how accurate the exact readings are, the following "data" points have been noticed from the Nauticam leak/ vac sensor indicator light:
 
1. Red state until at least 3mmHg vacuum pressure
2. Yellow indicator between ~3mmHg - ~5mmHg
3. Solid green light at a point beyond ~5mmHg
 
My practice has been to do battery/ memory card/ o-ring maintenance at the end of every day of diving.
I then seal, initiate vacuum, set-up and check function under ~8mmHg vacuum pressure.
It takes me approximately 3-5 squeezes of the MiniVac handle to get from ~5mmHg to ~8mmHg. (More squeezes needed with a 230mm dome, fewer with a 105 port.)
Once complete, I let my whole system sit (under vacuum) until the next day of diving.
If there is still a green light showing in the morning, I feel comfortable that my risk of a leak is low and I proceed with the dive.
 
I used to check the "reading" in the morning, but found, even in tropical climates with high variations in overnight temps (sometimes kept in over AC camera rooms, some open air) there was usually zero to <~1mm variation in 8hrs.
What I did find is I was more likely to lose vacuum by checking the reading, and the reason I no longer "verify" the green light with a reading.

I do similar to what you are doing. Except that I turn off the sensor before I sleep. Next morning, I turn it on again. One last check on the camera. Then pump it up again. It might be repeated. But sometimes I have the unfortunate time that the battery ran out on me.