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hellhole

Member Since 05 Oct 2010
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 08:55 AM
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#379232 Controlling Z240

Posted by hellhole on 29 November 2016 - 06:00 PM

The manual does a decent job explaining.
Here goes mine.
Sttl. Looking at the yellow lines on the dial follow the plus and minus signs for more light or less light. Turn to the right for less light.. Turn to the left for more light.

Manual.
See the M-6 and - 0.5?
It means M (manual) - 6 stops and - 0.5 stop. Here is how I explain it. Hope u can understand. If we say FULL strobe power is 0. Then - 0.5 is closest to 0 and - 6 is further away then 0. Hence - 0.5 is the brightest light u can get out of manual strobe mode and - 6 is the smallest light u can get out of manual strobe mode. Now. If u compare to how Sttl works... U would see that the are turning in different direction to turn power up or down...

Hope this helps...


#373313 Remote Strobe Trigger

Posted by hellhole on 05 May 2016 - 01:32 AM

I saw this company has it... It's not listed in their website... But certainly seen it on their Facebook page today... U can write them an email...
http://www.fun-in.com.tw
They have a few location in Asia. Probably that is your biggest cost...


#371182 My go pro video is red at 10-15 metres

Posted by hellhole on 06 March 2016 - 04:13 AM

If you take out the filter and everything is blue/green then U done nothing wrong.. It's your filters fault. Name the brand of the filter of you can...


#367181 Sea & Sea / Inon reliability - opinions

Posted by hellhole on 16 November 2015 - 10:14 PM

I have own d1 and z240. Never flooded anyone of them. I have been taught right at the beginning to check the oring and what to look out for. It's quite common sense really. Most of the cases I seen flooding happen is due to user neglect.


#360859 Strobe Technique Tips...

Posted by hellhole on 06 May 2015 - 05:37 AM

I think it's common... TTL mode has been miss more then hit for me. I do also find it giving me more light then needed. Check with a friend and the saying is that it's better to shoot in manual.
With regards to things happening really fast. Then it's a matter of knowing the strobe and distance from subject. Plus. Doing test shots.. Esp for wide angle. For Marco.. Usually have more time...


#356893 SeaandSea housing for Sony RX100m2

Posted by hellhole on 23 January 2015 - 03:47 AM

The Nauticam does not give u full control of the aperture , ISO and shutter speed.

The sea and sea and recsea Alu housing allow full control of all 3 settings.

As long as u have the button at the back and able to turn the front dial. Then u can the most control 2 of the 3 settings.


#353936 Sony Rx100 Housing Choice

Posted by hellhole on 01 November 2014 - 08:02 PM

I d not own one. But had a chance to play with it. Its good.... cheap ad nice


#341814 Sony Rx100 Housing Choice

Posted by hellhole on 13 January 2014 - 06:57 AM

 

Fortunately You need to turn it a bit more than 1/4 turn to flood the camera. During my first dive I turn it almost 1 turn when I realized that there is something wrong. Then I try silver tape - doesn't work to keep it. With this port as the user of aqupazza I already decided that I have to forgot about exchange lenses underwater. Especially If I have Inon UWLH100 plus Dome unit, which is quite heavy and it is a bit difficult to unscrew the lens with one hand and try to keep port with second one. I did this few times, just to flood the space between lens and housing, but now I am doing that on land, before diving, and feel much more comfortable, without stress :)

i myself also hate screwing the lens in and out... i think i have the best solution... i find from this company..

 

F.I.T. 67mm Magnetic Lens Adapter

http://www.fun-in.co...product_id=1714

 

simple and easy... for my recsea i do need a adapter to get the 67mm female portion... but goes on...and stay on... this magnetic adapter.. just pop in and out... wide angle to marco is seconds..