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Member Since 16 Jan 2011
Offline Last Active Oct 16 2016 07:48 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Preferred focal length or field of view

25 April 2016 - 08:20 PM

I shoot video mainly in ship wrecks and caves. I use a Canon 16-35mm lense with a FF camera. Normally, I preset the lense at around 20mm focal length because that seems to give a visually pleasing compromise between minimizing the effects of the water column and not having too much distortion in the picture. In cramped spaces I might zoom to 16mm in order to fit the entire view. But, for example in mines, the shortest focal length spoils the perspective and especially mine tunnels do not appear anymore "tunnel like". Due to diving in waters of limited visibility, I rarely use a focal length longer than 24mm.

In Topic: Photographing Silfra

12 November 2015 - 07:09 AM

I do not have experience with either of the lenses you are querying. But with a cropped mode camera, the 10-17mm range seems more suitable than 18-70mm for scenery work.

In Topic: Photographing Silfra

03 November 2015 - 10:15 PM

I was there in July - thanks to Valdi and Fraser for their tips and assistance.


If you are able to dive Silfra daily, you have a good possibility of finding the optimum conditions:

- a sunny day. Try different times of day to see when you get the most dramatic scenery that also shows distance in the clear water behind

- You might want to try shooting angles where you place yourself close to the edge of a sunlit/shadow cast area.

- Try shooting very close to the surface on a day with no wind to get either a mirrorlike or slightly rippled reflection of the scenery

- You need a model (one or two) in the scenery to give scale. Perhaps one fairly close and anotherone siloutted further away, in a nice position.

- Try to emphasize the airlike transparency of the water in Silfra, .e.g by showing empty water below the diver so that the diver seems to float in air.

- Try to utilize how the color of the rock seems to change beautifully from orange to blue. i.e. consider having some rock close to the camera. For example a scene from some shallow or narrow part towards the deeper blue views.

- You probably will not benefit much of strobes. However, the mass/inertia of the strobes and arms will help you stabilize your camera when shooting in ambient light. You could consider a tripod as well.


In addition to Silfra, I am sure you are aware of the many other water-filled cracks in Iceland...

In Topic: Aquatica regular eyepiece problem

26 October 2015 - 12:12 AM

We perform Aquatica maintenance here in Finland and I checked from my notes of a similar eyepiece the following order, from the outside inwards:


1) outer lense with O-ring (you seem to have this still in position)

2) black metal spacer ring R

3) convex lense B with convex side pointing towards the outside

4) black metal spacer ring R

5) concave lense A


Remember to clean your finger prints from the lenses...

In Topic: comparable cameras to SONY HXRMC50p

24 July 2015 - 08:57 AM

I believe that all the Sony MC50 variations have the same camera body and all of them should fit the HD Wave housing.

The variations are for different markets. MC50U is meant for U.S.,whilst MC50E (I own one) is for Europe. The differences relate to different frame rates and the external power supply. I do not know about MC50P. Sounds like PAL(?), but, why would there be a parallel MC50E version?


The Aquatica/Amphibico HD Wave housing is compatible with Sony HXR-MC50, Sony XR550 and CX550. Apart from difference of the external microphone, decorations on the side of the camera and some differences in the menus (i.e. features included/excluded), these are basically the same camera. The XR550 and CX550 are lower priced than MC50.


Do not confuse this older HD Wave housing with a slightly newer version with the same name. The newer version is meant for Sony HDR CX560/700 cameras.