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In addition to RED and C500, Canon 1DC is the only 4K video capable camera with a u/w housing available now.

If you sum up the total cost of camera, housing and proper video monitor, the total price is about half of a RED or C500 system.

 

On vimeo there are some excellent examples of downsampling, cropping and/or panning this 1DC 4K stuff in the edit to produce HD video. From the samples, it would seem that downsampling from 4K to HD, would maximize detail and clarity in HD video. Plus you have the capability of doing IS in the edit without getting problems with the edges.

 

For a long time, I have been wondering what would be the best way to improve noticeably image quality upon my trusted Sony MC50E. I am expecting improvements in one or more areas such as: green and blue water WB, dynamic range, gradability, detail in image, 4K, optical quality, pleasing colours, noise and low-light sensitivity. I was initially excited about the Sony FS100/700, but reports about difficulties with WB have made me hesitate and I have not heard any news on that front. I have dropped the 5D3 away from my list, because of its soft image - yes I know you can improve it in the edit, but... And besides, the video image quality of 5D3 or 1DX is not that much better than my MC50 or 1DIV. 

 

The image quality of a Canon C100 seems perfect for me, eventhough it is only 8bit. I have approached a couple of housing manufacturers, but, they have not yet shown any interest in this camera. With the new BM announcements, they might flock (hopefully) towards BM. But getting any of the announced BM cameras, and a housing as well, might take anything between 6-12 months or more? If the dates for both of these would actually be July 2013, I could wait.

 

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So currently, the 1DC is still on the top of my list. My biggest concern is whether it will be able to shoot continuous 4K clips without overheating. I have made calculations that 1DC generates heat 19.2 watts on average when shooting 4K video, see http://www.canonrumo...p?topic=13916.0

 

Does anyone have knowledge and experience of how long you can shoot 4K before the camera would possibly shut down? Anything less than an hour would limit my work. Without 4K, the HD quality of 1DC is comparable to 5D3, and then the investment would not make any sense.

 

How would this possibly "warm" camera behave in a housing? Would the limited circulation make the situation worse? Or would the relatively cool housing help? I dive mainly in 0C...20C waters. Would a warm camera in a cool housing cause condensation problems in the lense or dome?

 

Am I missing something? Should I consider someother video camera with a housing?

I am looking for ways to improve my u/w video footage. I have already invested in a 200w HMI, which improves a lot of things IF the water is clear. For murky waters I'll be trying something else (watch this space).

My current video setup is Sony MC50 and Aquatica with no light arms. What I like about this setup is that it is ergonomic and convenient size, i.e. not bulky. Especially in caves and penetrating wrecks, I prefer not to have lamps fixed on long arms. But, then I need to hold the camera in one hand and my lamp(s) in the other. Consequently, the light weight camera and housing will not provide a stable platform, especially when shooting footage and swimming simultaneously. I should point out that some of the filming has and will be done solo.

Eventhough the frog kick is best suited for silty environments, I can see in the video the speed variation of the kick and the glide. So for close quarters, I change to modified frog or modified shuffle kick.

Here is a sample video where I personally like the color balance and much of the lightning. But, I am bothered by the instability. As you can see, a tripod would not have been an option here.



I noticed there was some discussion about gyro stabilizers five years ago. Does anyone have actual u/w experiences of these? Since I will not be filming any sealife, a low-level noise would be acceptable. As long as the noise level is bearable to my team mates. Neither do I mind some moderate DIY stuff for e.g. a customized battery canister. Should I buy two Kenyon KS-8s? Or would this be a waste of money? I wonder why they need an inverter.

Or would I be better of by purchasing a DPV, attaching the camera to the DPV and getting some cave DPV training? (I am already full cave diver). The training and certifications required would add one year to my timescale.

Or should I just buy a bigger, more bulky (and perhaps also better) camera with a larger housing? Obviously the weight and inertia would bring stability.