eleung

I tried the old version 18-55 EDII in a night dive with the combination of a 6" dome, 13mm + 20mm extension, +4 diopter in a Nauticam housing. This let me took pictures of creatures from big frog fish, subjects from big and small like small octopus, flounder, leave fish...

The above discussions are very informative. The corners improved a lot comparing to just using a flat port. The original wide view can also be restored.

I love this setup because I can take a wide range of subjects underwater and topside. In addition, i can use the tokina 10-17 zoom gear by adding a plastic hood with velcro tape.

Definitely not usual, and will be replaced under warranty. I'm happy to arrange a replacement part if you'd like to pm me your address.

Thanks Ryan, it has been fixed. Hope that little parts can last reasonably long enough.

a housing can last for more than 5-10 years. If you can afford, go for aluminum with better control and support (in terms of ports, gear, ...). A heavy housing you may got charge extra on luggage when travelling and float accessory. Owned an ikelite consumer housing and have experience the button got stuck easy so you need to service them. The Pros is the transparent housing and some nice mini dome from 3rd party like that from underwatercamerastuff

Hi

On my last trip to the Red Sea I managed to put a large scratch in my INON UFL165AD

Any advice as to how best to remove it will be greatly appreciated.

[attachment=18493:IMG_7117.jpg]

My local INON "pusher" wants 330 Euros to repair it which I find quite steep.


/DryDuck

You can try http://www.novuspolish.com/

I did once to repair my UFL. But it was time consuming to repeat 1,2,3 until the surface was acceptable.

I've just bought a Kenko teleplus pro 300 1.4x dgx. Tried Tokina 10-17 w the teleconverter w d7000. It's works w aperture and correct focal length recorded in nikon exif data.

Found a compatibility list here. I just felt auto focus is ok fast w d7000

http://www.kenkoglob...ibilityList.pdf