Jump to content


influid

Member Since 12 May 2011
Offline Last Active Feb 11 2012 04:24 AM
-----

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Underwater Timelapse

11 February 2012 - 04:28 AM

It is possible to make 23 timings with the dip switches ... so one for on/off :lol:
The timing off the bursts must be exact!

With my D80 the unit was placed at the back shell and the back off the IR receiver.
You have to try this out. Good luck!


Cheers! However, I'm not sure to understand regarding the timing of the bursts. Do you mean the IR protocol ?

Additionally, here's GentLED feedback:

=============================================

This is tricky. You can remove the black plastic housing, that reduces the size to 38x24x13mm, but that excludes the toggle switch that sticks out. See the jpg I attach, you can see the shape is not square so that may help?

Posted Image

Note that the IR light comes out of the top side and this must point to the IR sensor on the camera. It needs to be within 5cm and doesnt need to be straight towards it. For a small charge we could make one without box and with IR LED on short wire so you can lead it nearer camera sensor? This is a little fragile but once installed in housing it may be good Does this help?
James


=============================================

In the Aquatica housing, the largest space I can figure is underneath the camera on the left. But the toggle switch might stick out too much from the back of the camera against the housing's lip. Maybe a replacement with a push switch is enough.
With the IRled pointing from the left front underneath the camera, the 5D sensor might catch the signal.. Otherwise, I asked for a quote with a short wired IRled and if the wired IRled can be easily replaced.

Standard unit is currently 30 pounds so it's worth a try.

In Topic: Underwater Timelapse

09 February 2012 - 02:41 AM

Nicely done! That's one tiny unit.

The 4 DIP switches trigger the Infrared LED, 3 for the timings (5, 10, 20) and 1 on/off, that's right ?

Are these pages the Canon's version of the Nikon's protocol you used ?
http://www.doc-diy.n.../eos_ir_remote/
http://www.doc-diy.n...to/rc-1_hacked/

Is there enough info to be started ? I know close to nothing in electronics but a friend of mine does and could give a hand.
(A bit more just in case: http://www.arduino.c...um=1198744543/3

Also, the Gentles are very small units: http://www.gentles.l...led/trigger.htm
I send an email for enquiry.

Finally, is the infrared led directly facing the infrared receptor in your setup or can it be on the other side ? The biggest space I can find in the Aquatica 5D housing is on the lower left, underneath the camera on the left of the plate.

In any case, thanks for pointing in the right direction!

In Topic: Underwater Timelapse

04 February 2012 - 06:02 AM

Hi,

interesting timelapse discussion! Everyone probably seen it already but the Brinicle timelapse from BBC is always a marvel to watch.

For timelapse, I usually prepare and export my frames to JPEGs from Lightroom, in a numbered sequence. Then, I import the files in After Effects or Premiere.

In the import window, select your first image and check the "JPEG sequence" mark (lower left corner). It will be imported as footage into your project. Since it's imported from multiples files as a video, software must give the sequence a specific value of frames per seconds. If you drop this footage on your timeline, it will automatically create a composition with the same size as your images. No matter the framerate of the sequence, it will be imported with the same time length as showned in the property inspector of the footage in the project panel. In order to change your footage's framerate, right click on the image sequence in your project panel and select "Īnterpret Footage > Main". Change the value named "Assume this frame rate" to your needs and click OK. You'll notice the time length of the sequence has changed accordingly. You can duplicate the sequence as much as you want to experiment different settings.

The Lightroom plug-in sounds really nice. Is the deflicker efficient ?

For a custom intervalometer, I found this Arduino Canon Intervalometer webpage. Pretty advanced but I'd still be curious to know if it can be customized for underwater.

Francois

In Topic: HELP! Aquatica 5DMK2 loose rubber wheel on main dial

04 February 2012 - 05:02 AM

The isopranol suggestion from Aquatica worked. I can operate the main dial without slipping or even jumping.

For those in Germany, isopropanol can be only be found in pharmacy. A bottle of 100 ml costs around 5 euros and contains 2-propanol.

Problem solved, I'm ready to go.

Cheers !

In Topic: HELP! Aquatica 5DMK2 loose rubber wheel on main dial

02 February 2012 - 11:10 AM

Hi Stewart,

I got some news from Aquatica as expected.

But first, I tried to fix the screws and found the right size of allen for metric system: it's a 1,5 mm milimiter one and fits. For further info, here's an equivalence chart.
However, the problem was not coming from the shaft itself. It does get loose when the 2 screws are untied. But it doesn't fix the rubber wheel from spinning around.

The explanation is: remove the rubber wheel and clean it with rubbing alcohol of any trace of lubricant that might have contaminated it. Shit happens but this one can be cleaned.

Posted Image

Uploaded with ImageShack.us

I'll get my hands on rubbing alcohol and post the results here. And btw, it's a bad idea to glu it.