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Member Since 25 Jun 2011
Offline Last Active Today, 12:29 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Strobe positioning with fisheye lens

Today, 11:08 AM

The distance you can shoot without backscatter is determines by the length of your arms. Some people aim the strobes outwards for subjects further away however this reduces the area illuminated by the strobes. With two segments 5+8 you are looking at one foot from the mini dome with less it reduces further. Unfortunately this is just a physical limitation. In very clear water you can get away with shorter segments and the backscatter will be very little anyway

In Topic: E-M10: Why no 2nd-C flash for P or A modes?

Today, 03:30 AM

If you shoot at less than 1/60 or 1/30 the strobe will not freeze motion. 2nd curtain will only make the movement trail behind the subject and not in front as first curtain would do. If you want to get a shark on second curtain at low shutter speed it will have a moving trail supposing that it does not change direction during the shot writing off the whole image. In most cases sharks don't come so close that you need small apertures unless you use a rectilinear lens. For the micro four third a good lens for shark is the 9-18mm or the 7-14mm. With those lenses in blue water you can shoot f/5.6 without worrying for blurred corners as there is no reef background. A typical shot for a slow moving shark is f/5.6 1/60 ISO 100. You can then increase to 1/125 ISO 200. At this shutter speed there is no difference between first or second curtain. With wider aperture there is less need to use a lot of strobe power that could cause highlights on the white belly of the shark. There are standard techniques to shoot sharks and unless you want a motion trail I have never heard of anyone using second curtain

In Topic: Strobe positioning with fisheye lens

Today, 03:19 AM

In murky water I find virtually impossible to shoot with the strobes pointing inward as the backscatter prevails. With a fisheye lens you are looking at shooting distances of less than one foot from the dome. If you go further away and there are particles you have a good chance of having lots of backscatter on the edges of the picture even with the strobes pointing forward unless you have very very long arms

In Topic: Comments on shooting the 9-18mm vs. 8mm fisheye?

Yesterday, 01:22 AM

To be honest you get softness with all rectilinear lenses in the corners. However the olympus has already an average performance off centre on land that gets worse in water. For shots in blue water such as sharks you will not notice it, the issue is only when there is a reef background. If this annoys you then the 9-18mm is not what you would take to the red sea. Better to get closer with the 8mm fisheye. If you look at this gallery you can see shots with the 8mm and the 7-14mm to get an idea. The 7-14mm is more expensive than the 9-18mm but works better at 9mm


In Topic: Canon Powershot G7 X Mark II and new Nauticam housing

27 August 2016 - 09:53 AM

Ambient light photography with a 1" sensor is a bit of a challenge and in any case you can shoot raw so white balance is done in post. Canon compacts except G series have extremely limited battery life and the G7 X port system is not a cheap entry