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Member Since 25 Jun 2011
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 10:25 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Strobe positioning with fisheye lens

02 September 2016 - 02:09 AM

Pulling out the strobes makes the area where the two strobes beam meet more sharp and pointy so if you illuminate a flat spot it is easier to get dark edges

In Topic: Canon Powershot G7 X Mark II and new Nauticam housing

31 August 2016 - 09:26 AM

Canon is not good for video. I have used canon, sony and panasonic. Sony works well with filters white balance is terrible. Panasonic is probably the best compromise between quality flexibility and cost but you need a mirrorless

In Topic: NEW Panasonic GX85 Announced

31 August 2016 - 07:21 AM

Nauticam housing should be out soon

In Topic: Strobe positioning with fisheye lens

29 August 2016 - 11:08 AM

The distance you can shoot without backscatter is determines by the length of your arms. Some people aim the strobes outwards for subjects further away however this reduces the area illuminated by the strobes. With two segments 5+8 you are looking at one foot from the mini dome with less it reduces further. Unfortunately this is just a physical limitation. In very clear water you can get away with shorter segments and the backscatter will be very little anyway

In Topic: E-M10: Why no 2nd-C flash for P or A modes?

29 August 2016 - 03:30 AM

If you shoot at less than 1/60 or 1/30 the strobe will not freeze motion. 2nd curtain will only make the movement trail behind the subject and not in front as first curtain would do. If you want to get a shark on second curtain at low shutter speed it will have a moving trail supposing that it does not change direction during the shot writing off the whole image. In most cases sharks don't come so close that you need small apertures unless you use a rectilinear lens. For the micro four third a good lens for shark is the 9-18mm or the 7-14mm. With those lenses in blue water you can shoot f/5.6 without worrying for blurred corners as there is no reef background. A typical shot for a slow moving shark is f/5.6 1/60 ISO 100. You can then increase to 1/125 ISO 200. At this shutter speed there is no difference between first or second curtain. With wider aperture there is less need to use a lot of strobe power that could cause highlights on the white belly of the shark. There are standard techniques to shoot sharks and unless you want a motion trail I have never heard of anyone using second curtain