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Member Since 25 Jun 2011
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#356925 Ikelite Housing for Panasonic LX100

Posted by Interceptor121 on 24 January 2015 - 04:09 AM

Fantasea have a new version that is the copy of the nauticam but in plastic

#356675 Has anyone used a Wet mate mini dome or an air dome with a micro 4/3?

Posted by Interceptor121 on 16 January 2015 - 01:35 PM

I am not quite clear about the physics behind it so I wonder if anyone has tried a wet mate like the Nauticam one or a similar solution with a flat port on a macro 4\3 to restore the air field of view???


#356561 Wide angle with GH4 and 14-42mm PZ lens

Posted by Interceptor121 on 13 January 2015 - 10:39 PM

The short port is flat and requires the inon wide angle lens. The dome port has got no lens it's just a dome to restore airfield of view. I have told the dome works in the 24-40mm range but this needs to be checked more

#351946 Latest video from Malta Comino and Gozo incl Tuna Farms

Posted by Interceptor121 on 24 August 2014 - 07:47 AM

Pretty much all straight from the camera, no exposure corrections around 40" have minimal color correction (caves and shots with lights)


#351147 Olympus O-MD E-M1 and Sea&Sea YS-D1 compatibility issues

Posted by Interceptor121 on 04 August 2014 - 01:56 AM

I have experienced that tests on land are generally not as reliable to simulate underwater conditions and then found myself having the problem later

So I rather put it at the harshest end on land to at least know when the problem shows before wasting images on a dive hence my suggestion obviously this is a personal decision

#350922 Sony RX100 II: which SD Card? (Class4?)

Posted by Interceptor121 on 29 July 2014 - 10:57 AM

for video the manual is correct class4 is fine however this will increase the write time and make impossible to take multiple shots

Consider a class10 card and also that when you upload the videos or images it is also important the read time (same class10 but read speed of 45 Mb/s is better than 30 Mb/s)

#350586 Socorro lens options

Posted by Interceptor121 on 21 July 2014 - 02:03 AM

Possibly a wide angle zoom like a sigma 10-20mm or Nikon 10-24mm

Both will require a large dome and end up being fairly expensive and much larger than your compact dome

the risk you have is to be stuck on the 17mm end of your tokina if the fish don't come close enough

Probably wise to look at fairly long arm and couple of strong strobes

#350478 Red Sea Workshop With Alex Mustard Blogs

Posted by Interceptor121 on 19 July 2014 - 12:32 AM

Part VI
Sea Workshop with Alex Mustard – Part VI Schooling Fish | Interceptor121 Underwater Photo & Video Blog

#350386 Inon UWL-H100 28M67 Type-2 + Dome Lens Unit II for UWL-H100

Posted by Interceptor121 on 16 July 2014 - 11:25 PM

I don't recall seeing this on the manual? You leave the dome assembled and rinse/soak the lens as a whole

#350265 GX7 vs OMD series under water

Posted by Interceptor121 on 14 July 2014 - 11:18 AM

I think Olympus deliberately don't want their camera to be too good at video and also lack the camcorder expertise of panasonic and sony

Personally I think the best compromise cameras are the Sony the Nex were pretty good and the new A series are very good indeed I also like the fact that most lenses are stabilised this does not happen with panasonic

One weird thing of the OMD-E1 is that it shoots at 30p and does not even have a PAL 25p option (probable the smoother and best all around video format that exists) but again probably they did not bother much


Taking video and stills on the same dive is complicated and even when your set up allows it you need two strobes and two video lights really painful


What I like of the RX100 is that it may not be the best but both video and stills can compete with more expensive cameras and I can pack pretty much everything same for video and photo only an additional video light instead of one and few more lenses instead of a complete port system. Fits fine in hand luggage

#350244 GX7 vs OMD series under water

Posted by Interceptor121 on 14 July 2014 - 01:47 AM

I would not be obsessed with ergonomics. I shoot manual and use few aperture settings a limited selection of shutter speed and even smaller selection of ISO


If you already have an OMD-E1 get a good housing and ports and start shooting. Then get a Gopro for a bit of wide angle video on top


I have been looking for a compromise to do good video and pictures in the mirrorless market and I could only see the A6000 as a possible upgrade currently but there are lens issues still on the macro side so not there yet for me

#350241 GX7 vs OMD series under water

Posted by Interceptor121 on 14 July 2014 - 12:10 AM

I have seen images of the 12-50mm at the wide end. Having 24mm behind a flat port is not something to be really excited about as the edges are blurred


I am with you if you invest in good quality ports and lenses you are in a different place but the 12-40 or 12-50 with a flat port for me are not the way forward.


I see many people trying to step up from compacts not embracing the concept of getting the proper ports and lenses if you do not want to do that you better off staying with something like the RX100 and investing in the best wet lenses made of glass


Once you made the investment in lenses and port the housing plus camera cost goes a factor 2x to 3x from RX100 to mirrorless


I know Tom is not realizing this in full hence am writing it down here so that is clear in his mind what commitment is required

#350194 Dyron or Inon for Wide Angle lens ??

Posted by Interceptor121 on 12 July 2014 - 10:58 AM

I would still be very interested if anyone has experience with the dyron super wide angle lens with a g15 or g16. Bluewater photo touts it as a 'G series wide angle lens' and has some pics of it used with a g16: (for reference)

I seem to remember that a lot of previous discussions about wide angle for the g15 - g16 eventually narrowing in on the zm80 being the most compatible, but likely to only be ideal for close focus wide angle, due to limitations on the light availability to the small barrelled lens and needing to shoot at f8. Ie. It's not gonna shoot reefs, wrecks using ambient light well.

Would this still be a likely issue with the dyron? Also, is having only 2 elements really a major deal breaker? I thought dyron lenses were generally pretty well regarded, as per the quality.


Considering that with the G series the field of view is only 100 degrees (as per bluewater photostore) I would not bother


And yes two elements lens means chromatic aberrations there is also a note on bluewater about flare problems... mmm

#350193 exposure impact on ISO variation

Posted by Interceptor121 on 12 July 2014 - 10:47 AM

ISO changes apply equally to the entire frame foreground and background

I have experiences of shooting sharks in the galapagos as this one

14027846179_cf6e518be3_b.jpgGalapagos Shark School by Interceptor121, on Flickr


What I did was as follows:

1. Set aperture based on lens and subject distance in this case f/4 (the sharks were 5 feet away and I shoot a compact with flat wide lens in this case)

2. Set shutter speed based on 1/60 as they were cruising slowly

3. Then chose an ISO that would give me the blue I wanted in this case 200

4. Set the strobe at half power to avoid highlights on the shark belly


Backscatter (other than really close to the strobe) is only determined by arm length, strobe beam angle and subject distance

If I had been using an SLR with a rectilinear zoom lens for this shot I would have required at least an f/8 to have decent sharpness at the corners which would have meant ISO 800

#350026 Do you use handles for your housing?

Posted by Interceptor121 on 08 July 2014 - 02:28 PM

With two strobes two handles

With one strobe you can have a single handle for stills however if you shoot video a second handle helps but it is not mandatory