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Member Since 25 Jun 2011
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#365771 GH4 - Nauticam Macro Lens/Port Thoughts

Posted by Interceptor121 on 01 October 2015 - 09:37 AM

I stumbled across this supplier who I bet would add one of these custom gears to their range (or just make one-offs) if asked.

I know jussi he got me the mega OIS 14-42 gear when Nauticam wasn't yet producing one
Very precise and reliable person

#365718 New Nauticam 29 port for Panasonic 14-42mm PZ could be a blast for 4K video s...

Posted by Interceptor121 on 30 September 2015 - 03:36 AM

Coming soon is a new shorter port for the Panasonic 14-42 Power Zoom lens. The port is 29mm and the idea is to put the lens as close as possible to the port.


Some test shots with the WWL-1 indicate that quality is great link to smugmug here https://nauticam.smu...Tests/NA-EM5II/


When used with the Panasonic 4K digital cameras the resulting crop makes the lens near to rectilinear, what is more interesting you can zoom through the lens without quality loss .


With the combination of CMC and WWL-1 and bayonet system together with the Panasonic 14-42mm power zoom in the new 29 port or 14-42 II in the normal 35 port you can achieve a compact experience with a micro four third camera.



#365658 My favourite 4K video settings for the Panasonic LX100

Posted by Interceptor121 on 28 September 2015 - 11:25 AM



I am really liking this camera for land use and for wide angle wide with the short port


I am not convinced at all it is a good option for still images underwater and for macro video it needs a few extra bits

#365576 My review of the Nauticam LX100 Housing and Port System

Posted by Interceptor121 on 26 September 2015 - 08:57 AM



Somewhat different option than other reviews on line

#365526 Nauticam CMC-1 macro lens on flip adapters compatibility

Posted by Interceptor121 on 24 September 2015 - 12:36 PM

There is a part to make it work



#365370 Panasonic GH4 advanced settings

Posted by Interceptor121 on 18 September 2015 - 07:37 AM

I like video like. I think some of the artefacts you see may depend on the relatively aggressive codec. 100 Mbps at 4K is not a lot. I wonder what the results are with the shogun or external recorder. But 0 to -2 is worth checking. In my other tests with other cameras changing noise reduction doesn't result in any real improvement but may give a go. Ultimately Panasonic standard setting is less aggressive than for example Sony or Olympus and many people ultimately rave for that look. I am using an LX100 at present and I can see that in this occasion though sharpening seems excessive it may have to do with the low sensor resolution and bigger pixels no idea. Anyway just got some images of the rig am about to buy and looks good

#365313 Panasonic GH4 advanced settings

Posted by Interceptor121 on 16 September 2015 - 11:20 PM

Am thinking of investing in a GH4 and have been doing a bit of reading of the manual plus some other sources
I am curious about the use of the advanced video settings specifically
Does anyone change the luminance, master pedestal and highlight shadow curve when shooting and why?

#364868 V-Log is coming to GH4 in October

Posted by Interceptor121 on 01 September 2015 - 11:38 AM

I don't think the issue can be resolved with slog. Best way forward is to buy canon or Sony. The new a6xxx is due and will have 60p 4K video

#364669 Living on black sand - Lembeh

Posted by Interceptor121 on 26 August 2015 - 09:37 AM


Not sure how you held the camera but the footage is very stable and sharp that makes up for the issues of the camera codec

Well done, this is better than other clips I have seen with 4K and similar!

#364478 how to DIY strobe floats from styrofoam ?

Posted by Interceptor121 on 21 August 2015 - 12:20 AM

There is a guy here in London that has made floats for years now and has tried quite a few materials. The stuff you guys are trying to use is not marine grade so when you lay a thick coat to fill the cells and then go into water I the long term there is a chance that the paint itself designed for ambient water pressure cracks. This is why I got his recommendation of using epoxy as it is the strongest material around though it takes time to harden is so viscous that you need a thin coat to completely seal and harden a block of divinylcell. You do need two separate steps one to paint the raw material if green or yellow bothers you and the next to lay the epoxy. The colouring can be done easily with anything even water based it will penetrate the fibres easily. For small adjustment blocks you can even use a permanent marker and a single pack of gorilla you get quite a few floats done for less than $5. Epoxy is used in marine application at it has extreme thermal and mechanical resistance

#364415 how to DIY strobe floats from styrofoam ?

Posted by Interceptor121 on 19 August 2015 - 08:43 AM

The paints you guys are discussing are not waterproof and not designed for marine application. Once they start solving in water they may create problems to the environment. You need to find something that is waterproof and not soluble like epoxy. Look in the boat or aircraft use not on the home use
Divinylcell used on boats is under a hull not exposed to water for this reason as it is too much work to harden on extensive surfaces

#364373 how to DIY strobe floats from styrofoam ?

Posted by Interceptor121 on 18 August 2015 - 05:03 AM

If you want to draw a hole in it so that they wrap around the ark segment you do need a tool. For cutting blocks you don't of course but not looks rough. Also it's not that easy to find at the end. You need the right grade to make sure it doesn't squeeze at depth

#364319 how to DIY strobe floats from styrofoam ?

Posted by Interceptor121 on 16 August 2015 - 04:51 AM

You can make floats using divinycell as suggested however as the material gets brittle you will need to finish it with epoxy glue all over to seal it. One of the other challenges is to make a shape that goes around the arms. Unless you have good cutting tools and a lathe it won't be possible so you will need cable tyre to fix it. It works fine until 40 meters with minimal buoyancy loss. I wrote a comprehensive comparison of commercially available float systems here

Increase the your rig’s buoyancy using floats or float arms | Interceptor121 Underwater Photo & Video Blog

Generally stix floats are my choice today however sometimes when I need more lift I use Inon mega floats

#363913 Comparison: Olympus m4/3 macro options

Posted by Interceptor121 on 04 August 2015 - 11:21 PM

I would be very interested to see the results.  Can you give me an idea why you think they work for one lens and not another? 

I did some tests that are on my blog with the 14-42mm
Panasonic Lumix G X Vario 14-42mm / F3.5 – 5.6 / Power OIS and Nauticam Macro Port 35 | Interceptor121 Underwater Photo & Video Blog

Those lenses (without a macro mode) have working distance around 20-22 cm from the port in water when you add the wet lens the distance gets much shorter with a +10 around 5-6cm from the port this gives a large improvement as it is 1/4 of what the lens could do all be
With the 60mm in water you can focus at 9cm which is closer than the +10 diopter at infinity, when you add the diopter although the front of the wet lens is now just a few cm to the subject the port is still at around 6cm which is 2/3 the distance of the lens alone. So the gain is not that much and you have wasted now 5-6 cm of working distance
The lens focal length determines the field of view and the distance to subject then determines magnification (if the lens can focus)
Close up lens allow the camera lens to focus closer but the gain depends on the relative improvement in focus distance
The Olympus 60mm with around 9cm from the port in water is already a +11 diopter alone so to improve you need something really much stronger say the CMC is 15 the total power is now 26 diopters and although you are nearly touching you do see a benefit. In practice I can see that the Olympus lens doesn't take full benefit from the close up lens and a bit of the lower gets lost
Another consideration is that the field of view is really limited and the Olympus lens is best around f/5.6 - f/8 at f/11 is ok at f/16 has lost most sharpness and at f/22 is just garbled so you may have better results staying further away and using f/11 and crop than getting close and using f/22 with loss is resolution obviously this is a theory that needs to be tested
For me having a lens that can do 2:1 in 35 mm terms in its own is sufficient

#363463 Olympus 9-18 with nauticam 4.33 dome

Posted by Interceptor121 on 21 July 2015 - 10:25 PM

The 4.33" dome is designed for the fisheye lens that focuses at 10cm. The olympus 9-18mm has a 25cm minimum focus distance. So I think the lens will not focus at all unless you use a diopter. For what concerns image quality the increased curve of the dome will deteriorate corners further. I am not even sure your concern is genuine. Measure the zen port on the housing from the camera focus point it is possible that you are already at the minimum distance and can't get closer anyway. I have a Panasonic 7-14 with the wide angle port and I measured against the zen with extension and the port length was the same. The port is anyway shorter than the minimum focus distance so a smaller port wouldn't make any difference except it wouldn't focus