Interceptor121

Annoying indeed

 

I have converted the Inon UWL-H100 into bayonet all good

 

http://interceptor12...-panasonic-lx7/

72 mbps without temporal conversion is like the apple intermediate codec versus h264 28 mbps high profile. I believe that except specific situations there is a ration of more than 1:5 in efficiency so between 28 mbps with temporal compression and 72 mbps without I would go for the first

However I think you will need to test it by yourself. Temporal compressions is very efficient in underwater video is not that fast moving in the end temporal compression works well

The reason why filter may produce better results is that usually cameras white balance stops at 10,000k It can happen to have a colder light temperature in water, a filter will warm the light and bring it into the working range of the camera custom white balance. So in certain conditions you may get an advantage If your camera works over 10,000K for example 14,000K usually there is no benefit for a filter as the light temperature never gets to the point that the camera custom white balance fails

The bluewater WA110 and Ikelite W30 are the same lens, in fact this is actually the Epoque DCL-30 http://www.epoque-ja...talacc-wide.htm

The W-20 is the old Epoque DCL-20 this lens has a small rear lens and will vignette on the RX100

The old Inon UWL-100 instead will not as the back lens is larger, this gives better optical quality than the DCL-30 or Inon UWL-H100

Filters are only needed for video for photos there is no need

 

Before making any decision on the lenses you need to get the housing first. Any lens will sit much closer to the port with the nauticam housing as opposed to ikelite and that will influence the choice of lens making some choices not viable.

 

There are plenty of considerations on the RX100 and wet lenses on my blog

http://interceptor121.wordpress.com

 

Consider that is possible to attach also Inon AD and LD bayonet mount lenses that are much more practical than M67 threaded ones. The RX100 requires lots of lens changes in water and the thread is not the best way to get that done quickly and increases the risk of loosing the lenses

I will be faster than you going to Grenada end of March!

I have now an lx7 with nauticam housing myself
I am going to run some comparative tests with the RX100 with regards to image sharpness, low light performance and stabilisation and put them on my blog
As far as I can see the HX30v has the same image stabiliser of the rx100 however it has a slow f3.2 zoom lens, as the stabiliser is optical the better results compared to the RX100 could depend by the smaller size of lens and imaging chip. Honestly I would not take anything with aperture less than f/2 in water with the HX30V you are already 2 and 1/3 fstops behind which means in low light you will be shooting at high gain which means a lot of noise on a small sensor camera
There is an ikelite housing for the lx7 and it is not massive costs around 550 if you are on a budget I would check that one

Thanks again for the info. I just met my RX100 today so I'll get familiar with it then decide whether and how to house it.

I'm not working on the Mermaid or any other boat at the moment. I worked on the Santana liveaboard for a few years from Phuket, then later for half a year on Nai'a in Fiji and Tonga.

Nick
I would appreciate if you would contribute to my blog once you get to grips with the rx100 with your comments

http://wp.me/p2QoIB-2O

Inside:

Wide angle and filter

The dreaded White Balance Error 9900

Inon AD lenses test and adapters

Sharing some of my considerations...
http://wp.me/p2QoIB-1v

OK I have an update based on my testing in the bathtub with Nauticam housing
The Inon UFL165AD with a custom built adapter does not vignette at all in video mode with steadyshot set to active and neither does the UWL105AD
In video mode with steadyshot set to standard the vignetting stops at 31mm zoom
In photo mode the vignette goes away as expected at 35mm zoom
I will post some video and pictures tomorrow after the pool session

http://wp.me/p2QoIB-11

Hope this helps

There is indeed an equation that you can apply to calculate the relationship between the distance between your strobes and the distance of the subject
You need to know the angle of coverage of your strobes which is given by the manufacturer
This equation assumes you point the strobes straight forward and that they are in line with the port
the distance between the strobes in your case is 2.85 the subject distance
So if your arms plus clamps are 14" each and the tray is 12" the total is 40" and you can get 14" close to a subject. To go further away you need longer arms as the strobes need to be behind the port

I had a go today with my AD lenses and they all work, there is vignetting until 34mm for the UFL165AD and 36mm for the UWL105AD on land but those are the same results I got on the S95 so it does give similar performance despite the larger sensor

I will post a youtube video soon