tdtaylor

I haven't used my 9-18 UW, but on land it is very sharp. Not quite as sharp as the 7-14, but very respectable. Do you get the same results on land. Might be worth a try to make sure the camera and lens are working well. If it works well, then it is an UW issue.

Wow, that would be an excellent addition.....if true.

how did you tighten that ball? did you just bottom it out hard or did you somehow tighten the locking collar? Mine is loose and spins. I'm afraid to bottom it out so hard that it locks, and I cant get a wrench on the collar, so any strobe I put on it just swings around

I have the same issue- can't get into the securing nut to tighten it up. I have Nauticam's version, which does not have the Allen wrench. I have not found that the issue, rather I need to turn the securing nut against the post. When I turn the post, it just keeps turning "through" the securing nut into the housing until it bottoms out. Hope I wrote this clearly enough to understand.

Terry

For Roger C above, I have shot in optical TTL with 2 YS-D1s using the 12-50 in macro mode at 2" from the subject, and the TTL worked fine. Manual exposure mode at 1/250 shutter speed, but TTL exposure mode for the flash (set camera flash to "fill" and strobes to TTL). Also, the D1s give nice ratio lighting control even in TTL for creative shadows and textures even at that close distance.

I have found that sTTL with the YS-D1 is not very reliable. I have 2 OMDs, tested both in the housing with several hundred shots, and another person has had the same issues. Settings same as above, as well as A and S settings on the camera. 3 or 4 shots will be correct exposure (with 4 to 5 seconds between with fresh batteries), then one frame will be completely overexposed. Later, one will be completely underexposed. About 70% were properly exposed. Tried it on three separate nights after disassembling and reassembling the setup each time, to make sure it was not some stupid error on my part. Macro or wide, same results. Maybe I am spoiled with the consistency of my full frame setup with electronic connections adn TTl exposure adjustments.

Also, we have found the 4 "adjustment settings" for TTL (empty circle, half, quarter and full) have very little effect on the output of the strobes, as well as trying to adjust the strobe through the camera compensation. Have also verified my strobes are not one of the ones being recalled for firmware updates.

With these issues I have been shooting in Manual with the strobes, with the camera set on 1/16 Manual flash setting. With these settings, the camera and strobes work fast, and in the little bit of time I have had with it since the battery life is greatly extended. Unfortunately, from now until March I won't be diving much (pool works and DiveCon training). Have to wait for the local diving to come back on line and a trip to Cayman Brac in March.


P.S.- I had issues on a Mac updating the software to 1.5 from 1.4. Computer didn't recognize the camera. I restarted both the computer then the camera, and if I remember correctly, with a couple of tries, I then started the software then plugged in the camera. Both update fine after that, but it took some tinkering with it to get the combination/timing correct.

It might even increase your chance to see a whale shark.

Too funny. But unfortunately, your very right ;-) Went out looking for sharks two weeks ago, and of course, I found 4 beautiful red tipped Sea Goddesses on a perfect small round black coral...maybe next time.

Now, if I had had my 12-50 on instead of the 7-14, I could have pulled it off.