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Member Since 07 Nov 2004
Offline Last Active Today, 09:15 AM

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In Topic: Having to open housing to turn on electronics

08 February 2017 - 05:42 PM

Sounds like yours us working great, I am very surprised that for 500 dollars this problem has not been resolved

In addition it didn't even come with a battery, I had to buy that separate for 50 dollars then another 50 for a charger

I now find myself having to have to buy 4 batteries to accommodate repetitive liveaboard dives making my total cost 750 dollars and I still have to open the housing just before every dive

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Yikes!!! Is there anyway you can retrofit to old fashioned cables? Are limited to fiber optic synchronization with your underwater strobes.


Update: I performed the overnight test. Left the camera with flash mounted on it (as above) all night - both left powered up and allowed to sleep on their own - both woke up on touch of the shutter button this morning.

In Topic: Having to open housing to turn on electronics

08 February 2017 - 03:51 PM

I just did a quick test by attaching my 600 strobe to my 1Dx2 camera with lens attached. Powered everything up and let the camera go to sleep. Strobe stayed on for a few minutes then went to sleep. The strobe woke up when I touched the shutter release button. I also did a test by turning off the camera power on the camera's main switch - with the camera off the flash stayed on until the flash went to sleep.


From the above above I deduce that the flash goes to sleep independently from the camera so there must be some electronics in the flash unit for doing this. The flash woke up rather fast when I pushed shutter release so need to do the test for a longer period like overnight.


It sounds like Nauticam needs to incorporate a flash sleep mode similar to a Canon flash. Maybe their engineers thought that 3 hours of power is enough - wrong!!

In Topic: Having to open housing to turn on electronics

08 February 2017 - 03:21 PM

The flash fire is completely independent of the camera.

The camera does not have an in built flash so this attaches to the hot shoe and acts as a flash to fire the strobes

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 OK I get it. I need to do the overnight test to see if the flash will still work if the camera is just asleep. I left cameras turned on in the camera bag while in sleep mode a few times (even for a few days) - forgetting to turn off the camera - the camera worked A-OK on waking up but I have not done this "trick" with a flash attached. Basically I like having the camera ready to shoot so I just have to touch the shutter release while swinging it up my eye to get those shots where the subject is not going to linger such as bears.


If the overnight test passes - flash still works - it would mean that Nauticam has not implemented a capacity used by Canon strobes and possibly could via a firmware update.

In Topic: Having to open housing to turn on electronics

08 February 2017 - 03:07 PM

I am not familiar with the details of how a Nauticam housing works. Is this is a separate battery from the one in the camera body???? Or not???? The sleep function should preserve the battery if it is the one in the body but the sleep function is typically activated via menu in the camera.


BTW a Canon flash unit attached to the camera will follow the sleep, on, or off state of the camera if I recall correctly. I do not know if there is a time limit. If the main flash capacitor is being charged while it is asleep the battery will drain - I have not tested for this.


The big issue is Nauticams TTL flash battery. Standby is only 3 hours and you can't turn it on or off once sealed.

For the price of the flash is just don't get it, 490 dollars and it doesn't even come with a battery. You have to buy a canon battery then this only last a few hours?

It's really ruining diving with a camera for me. I have had the last two fives ruined by having to set the camera up on location

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In Topic: Having to open housing to turn on electronics

08 February 2017 - 01:41 PM

I use the sleep function to extend a camera's battery power. I have left housed cameras for hours at a time in single digit degrees C water without issues. TTL is via wired cable, however, I mainly use manual flash. I use Seacam strobes that do NOT require ANY outboard circuitry for TTL, i.e., just plain wires going from bulkhead to camera hot-shoe.