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Member Since 12 Feb 2012
Offline Last Active Aug 20 2014 02:45 AM

Topics I've Started

Olympus E-PM1 setup (camera, housing, 9-18, 14-42)

27 July 2014 - 04:38 AM

All equipment is in pristine condition unless otherwise noted.
Olympus E-PM1 + flash in its velvet case + charger (3rd party) + battery
Olympus PT-EP06 (housing + flash mask + several silica gel packets)
Olympus 9-18mm (m4/3 version)
Olympus 14-42 II
Does not include a zoom ring if you want to zoom (I typically just set it to the widest setting anyway so not an issue for me).  Costs about $30: http://www.amazon.co...0313595-1326039
This setup (with the 9-18) was used recently to film this (unfortunately it's 720i due to my messing up some settings, and compressed due to YouTube; the camera is capable of even better quality):
Other than that, it's only been in the water a few times as my diving has been pretty limited over the past year since I bought it.
$925 includes shipping to CONUS and PayPal or Amazon fees. International shipping extra.
Perfect feedback as linuxizer under beerology or heatware.
Pictures here:

Value of housed hydrophone(s)?

14 July 2014 - 12:54 PM

I saw a post here recently on sending one through a port in the main camera housing, but it seems like a more promising approach would be to house one of the Zoom/Tascam/Olympus recorders in its own housing with a standard port to send a hydrophone through.  Then you'd use a slate (or click two boltsnaps together) to synchronize the video with the audio and get rolling.  Adds a layer of complexity for sure, but I can think of at least three advantages:


- Compared to a hydrophone on housed DSLR/CSCs, it means you totally eliminate focus motor noises

- You can position where you want for optimal sound.  That means you could place several on several divers for action shots (caves come to mind), as well as being able to place it close to or away from regulators in order to capture/avoid breathing sounds, as per your wont.  You could even put one up close to capture the regulator sounds and be able to difference them out.

- Assuming you can place them far enough away to matter given water's faster sound transmission, you might manage decent stereo, although the accoustics of doing that well are far beyond me.



Filter to correct violet tinge on DRIS Impact

13 July 2014 - 05:12 AM

I've got one of these and am thinking about buying a second:



On my first dive, the footage looked ok, but as I dial in the (video) camera's color balance a little tighter I suspect I'll start to see the violet tinge that showed up when I compared the Impact head to a few different actual video lights in the dive shop.


Is there any standard filter for correcting a slight purple tinge?  Really light green maybe?

Olympus E-PM1 video settings

03 July 2014 - 07:37 PM

Testing my new setup in the pool tomorrow, then it's off for a real SoCal dive (90fsw) on Saturday.  Figured I'd run key settings by the wise folks here in case there is more wisdom to share.


The goal here is video.  Setup is the Olympus housing, E-PM1, Olympus 9-18, stock flat port (no Zen dome yet, maybe next year), Nauticam tray with left arm, 12" Stix Large buoyancy arm, 1000 lumen DRIS Impact Video light.


  • 720p (avoiding 1080 because I'd rather have progressive than interlaced for motion)
  • IBIS: Off (horrid with video)
  • Focus: AF (no focus gear in this housing, sadly)
  • WB: Manual WB, will set off a buddy's tanks.  A little worried here since I've read Olympus manual WB often fails underwater.  If so, what's the best next step--the underwater WB setting or a custom Kelvin dial-in?  If the latter, what's a good temperature to set it to?
  • Exposure: Manual, or if I get lazy, Aperture Priority.


The light is relatively bright but a little purple compared to dedicated video lights at the dive shop.  I'm a little worried about balancing it against ambient without getting some horrid coloring for the ambient.  Any thoughts?


Comments on settings I forgot or poor choices above would be most appreciated.



Olympus IBIS underwater for video

23 December 2013 - 06:49 PM

Anyone have tips for using the in-body image stabilization in Olympus cameras for shooting video.  I assume the algorithms are optimized for land-based use (i.e. hand trembling rather than water motion).


Any hints as to which mode to use? There are usually at least two modes, sometimes 3 (called, appropriately enough, 1, 2,  and 3).  Should I disable it entirely?


I'm referring to the earlier bodies, not the 5-axis IBIS seen in the E-M* models.