Pauline

Wonderful site! Tons of great artists!

It's very dangerous....for the Speedlight.
Pocket Wizards do not fit inside the housing - they are radio transmitter triggers. You need a long strobe cord from your camera housing (Ryan from Reef Photo can make one for you) which will plug into the Pocket Wizard. The Pocket Wizard does not have to float in a bag, if the cord is long enough you can mount the PW on a stand next to the pool. From that PW you can then fire multiple strobes with other PW's set up as receivers and connected to the other strobes. Slave mode from in the water to a strobe outside will probably work erratically, particularly in daylight.

A-HA! Ok. I get it now. I messaged Ryan through their site about this.

One more question - how much can you bump up your sync speed on the D7000 by using this method? Thanks.

FWIW I worked on a job a few weeks ago which used a large number of studio flashes triggered by a pocket wizard - the wizard need to be in a waterproof bag (KMR supplied a Ewa with S6 bulkhead for me) and above water level (it was on a 10m cable and attached about 1m above the water at the side of the pool). It worked very well indeed.

Great info. I wonder - is the only way to use a pocket wizard with a bag such as that made by Ewa? Has anyone used a pocket wizard inside their housing? Instead of a pocket wizard (since I don't have one now), I was thinking to just try a nikon speedlight (s) in slave mode, triggered by an ikelite strobe aimed right at it - this would get the same job done, no? I just wonder how dangerous it is if the speedlight accidentally goes in the water by mistake and releases it's full charge.

I think you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference in image quality between a 5D2 and a D7000. Even though the D7000 is a cropped sensor with a tad fewer pixels it's probably very similar in noise performance and dynamic range to the 5D2. Rectilinears will give you barrel distortion issues (hands and feet at the periphery) if you are shooting models that can be more difficult to correct in post in my opinion than the mild fisheye distortion of the 10-17 at 17. I often prefer to shoot with the D7000 and 10-17 at the 17 end to a wide rectilinear on my D700. On the D700 I often shoot the Sigma 15mm with a 1.4TC which is equivalent.
Not trying to discourage you from trying full frame, but I bet you will do a lot better initially with a 10-17 on a D7000 at the 17 end, than rectilinear on full frame, especially while you work out all the other things like lighting etc.

This will save me a lot of time experimenting! So glad I asked about this on here. Thanks again to everyone.

Thanks Drew. I posted the lighting setup I'm thinking of trying here: http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=45702 I haven't used pocket wizards but I'll look into them.