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Member Since 07 Apr 2012
Offline Last Active Dec 28 2014 08:07 AM

#342886 Hero3 Black. How do I take advantage of this high definition camera?

Posted by SPP on 05 February 2014 - 05:43 AM

Hi Davide,


I like ur video, as always, even a test video is beautifuly done.


If you choose Protune mode and more so if CamRaw WB choosen too, transcoding first to Cineform AVI or MOV will recover the details easier , where Protune records with camera processing to minimum......noise included while sharpness reduced.


No need NEAT video and the like, mess with it in Cineform Studio when file already a Cineform AVI or MOV and at the same time editor like Vegas Pro will do parallel work with Cineform Studio.


What you can do to improve with not much extra work is sharpness for your test video.

Under PROTUNE color preset, the sharpness is pushed to approx 75% and looks like the average all auto output, your scene of the corals on the wreck will be sharper. Try it and you will see, its not over sharpening , its just suitable sharp.


If you record in AWB or auto all the way and no Protune in a GoPro cam, transcoding to GoPro Studio is no worth the effort.


The powerful and easy thing about Protune and CamRaw is its color recovery capability at a distance when using ambient sunlight and water not too clear but of course you must use GoPro Studio. Its a decently powerful color correcting software and free too. More color touch up can be done with the editor you choose, which must be compatible with Cineform codec.


If one choose 32 bits floating point in Vegas Pro, the Cineform AVI is much easier to color tune for difficult scenes than a normal/standard MP4.


No doubt the MP4 Protune records in 8 bits 4:2:0, the Cineform AVI is 10bit 422 upsampled, garbage in garbage out still applies, but the color tuning flexibility of Cineform AVI is better than in its raw MP4 Protune, in hands of expert ( not me...ha ha ha ).


While GoPro so called CamRaw is not as raw as professional cameras RAW, its a great free Raw WB, for a camera costing so little. 


In the capable hands like yourself, I bet you can maximize Protune + CamRaw to its maximum with Cineform AVI in GoPro Studio and parallel running to another editor.


Have fun Davide...






#339272 GoPro 2 fogging remedy?

Posted by SPP on 11 November 2013 - 04:24 AM

The GoPro heating up has nothing to do causing any fogging.  In fact, it heating up during the dive will actually work against fogging by raising the air temp some inside the housing.  


Fogging all comes about from the air inside the housing cooling to the point it where it hits its dew point temp.   The more moisture in the air, the higher it's dew point temp.   So, you want the driest air inside the housing possible with the lowest dew point.   The key is the air is dry enough so the dew point is lower than the coldest water temp you will experience during the dive.    Then you will have no fog.


The easiest way to do this is to load the camera in a cool and dry environment (i.e. in A/C )and not on the deck of the boat.    If you must open it on the boat deck, you could try to put it in a clear bag to close it and blow some air from your second stage into the bag just before you close the housing.   Scuba air is less than 10% humidity, so the dew point will be very low.   Just be very careful not to blow any water that may be on the reg into the housing or bag.  





Camera heating up is also one of the reason for fogging, because temperature difference is what trigger the dew point.

Water moisture in gas form in air aka humidity has a limit to how much air can hold that water in gas phase, before it has to give it out in liquid form which is the fogging we know or rain in extreme case of high water moisture storage. Hotter air can hold more water moisture. Per 1 cubic meter of air at 30C at 100% RH can hold as much as 30.4 grams of water or 30.4 cc of fresh water or 600 drops, eye drop size in gas form. In contrast, a 20C ambient air at 100% RH can only hold 17.3 cc of water or grams in gas form. This is the simple reason if in Bali your car air-cond is very cool at 24C average and you wear Sunglass and sitting in front where the air cond vent is powerful, open the door when arrived in Tulamben......woosh, foggy glass you get the moment you step out of your car in mid hot sun.....within 5 seconds. The hot humid air which touches the cool sunglass can not avoid releasing its gas form water moisture to become liquid/fog......that is gas law, no way around it. Do any LOB on a good vessel with 23C cool non-stop air cond running for our rooms. Place a DSLR in the room for 3 hours, run to stern of the LOB vessel with that camera to take picture of friends loading the zodiac, foggy lens guaranteed.


In the topics at 90% humidity at 30C ambient, all one need to do is get in the water which is 2 degrees cooler and when the lens of the housing has come to the same temperature of the water, even without hot air generated from camera operation in the housing, the dew point is already reached for the air near the housing lens innner side for plastic housing. Aluminum housing is better in this case as the port lens is never faster to be cooled by surrounding water as the alu housing material. So housing lens fogging is hard to occur on alu housing. Polycarbonate vs glass, glass gets cooler faster and more so for thin 1.xx mm GoPro housing lens, compared to 2.5mm polycarbonate housing material the GoPro uses.


It is all about temperature difference and how wet the air is to begin with.

When camera in operation and air in housing gets hot, even the humidity is the same as the minute the camera was placed in the housing, the temperature spread gets higher and it will be easier/faster to trigger the fogging.


Use dewpoint calculator to see, it is easy.



Enter 30C ambient. 90% RH +-1

You will get 28.18C as "fogging temperature".


For plastic housing so small like GoPro, what I do is simple.

Get a 1-2 liter clear see-thru plastic bag.

Place GoPro and housing opened up, in the plastic bag.

Flatten plastic bag to remove all wet ambient air.

Inject dry air from scuba tank into plastic bag till plastic bag expand like baloon. Tie with rubber band. 

Allow 5 minutes to generate expedited drying of moisture attached to seal of housing and all components of the camera.

Dump air out a bit, close camera housing while still in plastic bag.

DONE - One just place the driest air available for scuba divers in camera housing, beating any air cond air which at best is 40% RH in the tropics.


Scuba tank air, if dive operator is anal on quality and more so when they have Bauer Securus sensor, that is a minimum of -55C dew point or well under 1% RH ( -55C DP Temp =  0.05% RH actually ) or equal to European EN12021 breathing air standard. -55C dew point temperature is filter life expired limit under EN12021.


However, there are many places in Asia where air standard is so poor, expect 10 to 20% RH and some drops of water in scuba tank...ha ha ha.


David is right, even metal hold water moisture, let alone flexible seal on camera housing.

If ones operate a NIST certified/traceable  -80C dewpoint sensor, one will be amazed that copper tube is a "wet" metal.

Plastic is VERY WET. Seals are WET WET WET.


Desscicant and dry scuba tank air is a potent combination for reliable non fogging on micro sized camera housing like a GoPro with minimalist air-space.

Dessicant is cure, scuba tank dry air is preventive.


HD3 Black under highest data bit recording in Protune 46mbps, will have temperature rise of 25C or starting at 30C and be 55C in just 13 minutes in open air without a housing, imagine when one uses the housing. GoPro HD3 or even HD2 is a "hot" camera, but it does not overheat as fast as Sony NEX7 in 1080p 50fps.



Attached is a test of HD3 Black, 1080p 60fps Protune 46mbs for 30 minutes.

All in Celcius, taken with a FLIR/EXTECH i5 thermal camera.

65.5C is the lens metal perimeter which is also the heat radiator of the CMOS sensor.

HD3 Black when using Protune is crazy hot and is more prone to fogging than any other GoPro lower grade version.


In desperate condition where I do not have time or the plastic bag, I spray scuba tank air to housing with camera inside it, 2cm open door and close it. Not the best but not too bad. I then use two of GoPro HD3 Black and use them alternatively, let one cool.

The more often one use the GoPro camera, the heat it generated will dry some part of the camera itself, it will be less fogging prone than a virgin brand new camera, given that the storage is in the housing and the housing remain closed while in storage and been exposed to dry scuba tank air often.



The fogging test, attached. Done on GoPro HD1 some years ago.

TEST 1 - Ambient air 30C ( see smaller digit on temperature meter ). Cool water to 10C ( larger digit ) with ice. Close camera housing with ambient wet air of at least 80% RH, typical tropical country. Fogging blind within 4 minutes camera recording.


TEST 2 - Use scuba tank air to inject and dry camera+housing, minimum -55C DP dryness of air but total water moisture removal is perhaps only as good as Zero Celcius dewpoint at best, but more than enough. 12 minutes camera recording no issue. Even 2 hours recording is not an issue as fresh water coldest temp is never below zero Celcius or no more than -2C for salt water of typical 35,000PPM salt.


Have fun guys....n safe diving.

Attached Images

  • HD3 Black  30 minutes at 1080 60p Protune - side thermal.JPG
  • HD3 Black  30 minutes at 1080 60p Protune.JPG
  • fogging.JPG

#339214 SmallHD DP4 vs Atomos Ninja 2 in Nauticam housings

Posted by SPP on 10 November 2013 - 12:12 AM

Hi Guys,


See attachment, hope it shed some light.

Photo of this type cannot be very good, but at least something to see.


I have not mess with the Ninja 2 color setting or contrast or whatevere.......at all.

Video source is from GoPro HD3+ Black. Light is long tube rather cool fluorescent lamp


The DP4 screen has always been warmer but it is a bit too warm actually in this test.

One thing for sure, DP4 seems to be a better screen in terms of resolution, at least for me.


I have DP4 Nauticam and one of the reason I got the Atomos N2 was because I am not happy with focus peaking of DP4 which is only white shade.

White shade for focus peaking is not so useful UW. Prefer red and yellow. My lousy eyes love focus peaking too... :pardon:


I am learning more what Ninja 2 can do, and if I like it I may get the Nauticam housing for it.


Happy shopping.




Attached Images

  • Atomos Ninja 2 & Small HD DP4 - DP4 as main input.JPG
  • Atomos Ninja 2 & Small HD DP4 - Atomos as main input.JPG

#325115 Gopro Hero3 vs Hero2

Posted by SPP on 25 January 2013 - 10:17 AM

Hi Tobbe,

Some shots as example at 2.7k Protune + Cam Raw 25 FPS
Rendered to same resolution 2,704 x 1524 at 50 mbps constant bit rate MP4, because original bit rate is 45 mbps.
Approx 1.4GB file size for 3 minutes 47 seconds of video.

2.7K to 2.7K Night Dive with 2 x 10,000 lumens light and a bit of Day Dive
http://rapidshare.co...o 3 in 2.7k.mp4

Not the best water viz but it shows this el-cheapo baby camera has great potential. US$400 ( USA price ) ready to dive at approx 100 degrees wide angle in water is SUPER CHEAP even at 1080p 60p/50p, let alone 2.7k resolution. Aliasing is not an issue at 2.7k if underwater. If water viz is 30+ meters and in good light and one hoovers at max 10 meters, install a URpro CYAN using Protune + Cam Raw, many US$2,000 to US$3,000 body only DSLR will be put to shame, because to dive them it will cost at least US$5,000+ more in lens, housing dan WA dome port or minimum US$7K total. At US$400, HD3 Black its a "disposable" camera in contrast with the big brothers out there.

1080p 50fps Day Dive, assisted with 1 x 10,000 lumens light ( 405 MB , 1 minute 54 seconds ).
HD3 Black at 1080p 50fps is approx 35ish mbps, I rendered this video at 28 mbps CBR.
http://rapidshare.co...e + Cam Raw.mp4

Buy a few HD3 Black, say 3. Set 2 units at 1080p NARROW, add SRP 55mm filter adapter and 55mm>67mm adapter ( SRP 55mm NAKED adapter is the same as their BlurFix3 URPRO-SRP color correction filter frame/adapter ) add Inon 165 or Subsee +5 / +10 or stack them both, you get an entry level macro camera for 10-15 cm close up. Stashed these 2 cameras where you can video shy creatures. Hoover around with 1 wide angle HD3 Black. I have not tested but adding US$500 Inon H100 wide angle lens or equivalnet is very likely possible to create extreme wide angle from GoPro MEDIUM mode or perhaps 140ish degrees in water. Add LCD BacPac for all 3 of the HD3 black, still less than US$300 for 3, USA Retail. If you play shallow and get 75 minutes and a location with macro and wide angle targets, awesome savings on expensive dive trip which is now approx US$400ish a day LOB for 3 dives/day. I am going to try this 3 of HD3 Black experiment very soon for fun.

Here is some learning on HD3 from the experts.Yes land use but know-how is know-how.

Abe K, the man behind all GoPro official video

Read his blog, mainly its GoPro related.

David Newman, the Cineform boss and brain behind Protune





#321361 SS VALSAVOIA - a quick tour

Posted by SPP on 24 November 2012 - 06:28 PM

Never tried AE on a real dive. Here is full of pro Posted Image I strictly follow their advices I had several times here.

He he he, me is AUTO man..... expect more great videos from you yah.
Really enjoy it and you allowing original download at Vimeo is very good, allowed me to enjoy your video in "near" full glory and learn some.
Full glory is when you upload to CBR 28 mpbs or higher.....he he he.

Even those videos taken on two dives, 80+ meters dive is not something I would like to have as secondary task at hand.....no Sir.
I would probably be "dumb" down there ha ha ha.


#320617 Sony Rx100 Housing Choice

Posted by SPP on 15 November 2012 - 05:06 AM

Hi 911,

I actually dont like tray handle on camera right side.
I do have 2 handles ( Nauticam tray ) but only to hold lights and I space it out so that my hand can go in between the camera body right side and the handle.
The middle ball attachment on housing top is reserved for GoPro or DP4.

RX100 body is design as compact, so its not as nice as DSLR to operate 100% UW if there is a handle on the right side and create the extra distance.
I agree with you, that my index finger can operate that front lens ring dial on the Nauticam with ease because it is placed as such it is a 1 finger operation scratching-off-paint-style without releasing my grip on camera housing right side. Totally unlike the requirement of 2 fingers, thumb and index finger operation of Patima or Ike for lens control ring/dial.

I also doubt I can reach RecSea big lens control dial if my hand palm is at camera's right side. I am pleased with Nauticam RX100 ergonomic, however I am thinking to modify the shutter release, by hopefully able to add some sort of rubber washer or extra spring to create 1 tiny bit of resistance before the actual SHUTTER release. I want a NA-D800 feel on the shutter he he he or at least NA-NEX7 feel.

#320553 slow mo and go pro

Posted by SPP on 14 November 2012 - 07:26 AM

Do 60 fps for HD2 using 720p. Make sure enough ambient light. Do 60p for HD3 Black 1080p or 120 fps for its 720p.
Use Cineform Studio ( its free ) , transcode to Cineform AVI or MOV, ur choice depending on what editor u are using.
For the conversion MP4>>>AVI or MOV, use the setting and choose FRAME RATE 10, which is 6 times slower per second if from 60p source because 10 frames per second is what you get. Its decently smooth for a free program, even playing with 120fps of the HD2 480p, its not bad slowed down to 10 FPS, or 10 time slower.

From that Cineform MOV or AVI, you can use CineForm studio to convert to MP4 again as finished product. While at it you can play with color too ( limited ) or you can use any NLE capable of working with Cineform MOV or AVI. Cineform Studio is free and buggy sometimes.

This may help on the Cineform MOV or AVI compatibility

Good luck trying.

#320411 Hack for GH2

Posted by SPP on 12 November 2012 - 02:37 PM

I see, thanks Davide.
Me AUTO EXPOSURE man ha ha ha.
Yes me also love center spot focus. Good thing my camera multi-metering auto exposure is intelligent enough to rely on and if I use multi metering mode for the same circumstances 01:11 to 01:16 , all I need to do if I want 100% success, is to raise the camera extra 10% of what your framing is. The multi metering zone will cover it.
Thansk for sharing...


#319765 SONY DSC-RX100 Movie Modes

Posted by SPP on 02 November 2012 - 02:48 PM

Nice one 121, thank u.

#319512 Whale sharks of Cenderawasih Bay, West Papua, June/July 2012

Posted by SPP on 30 October 2012 - 10:01 AM

Whale shark meat to some fishing villages in Indonesia were food and is food ..... if and when necessary.
It is better to see the whales becoming attraction then to become whale meat sold cheap or its fins becoming a Chinese delicacy.

What Cendrawasi bay management need is like Oslob-Cebu management : ( I was at Oslob a few months ago )
- No strobes or lights whatsoever
- No touching or riding of whales,Oslob-Cebu has patrol guys on the surface to watch tourist interaction with the whales.

- No pointer or any rod or any sharp object allowed.
- Snorkler limited to 30 minutes per day per person
- Divers limited to 1 hour x 2 dives per day. I can't remember the limits per day for snokelers and divers.

- Pay to dive ? ...........depends.
The ones in blue are most important.

Some whale sharks love humans. Long time ago I as doing deco stop and a WS came. I have no camera on me.
I played with it, tag along its dorsal fin.....yep.
We were only on 300 psi, stayed as long as possible.
When we were up on the boat, it came to the boat rubbing it and seems wishing we will stay in the water. It gave us that "crying child look" and with that mouth open/close next to the boat like begging for more fun time. It stayed with us next to the boat and refused to go.

These Cendrawasi Bay whales came to the fishermen because of waste/fish dropping from the net. The same as some commercial fishing boats dumping left overs and fishes knew this and started to hang out when such vessels are dumping. Wild or not, free food is what animal love. They recognized free meals.

Anyone coming from 1st world countries may think what's going on in Oslob-Cebu and Cendrawasi Bay as a big NO-NO, but the overall picture is much better than these :


Some areas in Indonesia, a dog meat is a delicacy........YES, Manado has small restaurants selling them. Is that wrong ? You tell me.

If the whale sharks decided to stay or come often for free meal, that is their decision. We divers only need to make sure they do not become whale meat, since we care about them.

#319196 SONY DSC-RX100 Usability Issues

Posted by SPP on 26 October 2012 - 06:26 PM

I was playing with exposure lock because 121 mentioned it.
The middle of Tri-Nav control can be set to AE lock, AF/MF and 2 more features. I choose AF/MF. It is after all a Function button and can be set to suit one's need.
My use for RX100 is UW video, so AE lock I will not bother.

#319108 Hero 3

Posted by SPP on 25 October 2012 - 07:37 PM

Hi Guys,

HD3 Black is the TOTALLY NEW PLATFORM >>> Get this one
HD3 silver is HD2 in new body + free wifi
HD3 white is HD1 in new body + free wifi
All get new flat lens housing
All old mounts can be used

New Touchscreen LCD BacPac supposedly can work thru plastic door and only full function if used on HD3
This is one camera we must have. At US$400 camera with 180 feet housing, how more cheap can one go for 2.7k ?
Use VLC player or Apple Quick Time to playback 2.7k or 4K, many others do not work.

30 fps 2.7k Protune HD3 Black. Take the raw file 110 MB for 19 seconds footage. 45 mbps data rate. Actual size 2704 x 1440 pixel.

15 fps 4K. Use aTube Catcher and you can download the original at 355MB for 1:35 minutes. 30ish mbps . Actual size 3840 x 2160 pixel.


#318751 Hero 3

Posted by SPP on 20 October 2012 - 02:34 AM

The HD3 Black at highest resolution, probably 2.7K one at 30 fps is said to pump out 45 Mbps.
4K at 12fps does not count.

The video from GoPro is amazing. With semi manual WB setting and color correction filter, this baby can whack many 4/3, APS-C 1080p or DSLR 1080p for wide angle if we use the 2.7K and down to 1080p for final edit. Even 1080p 60p should be beautiful.

So far what is available as demo video for underwater from GoPro,
Minutes 00:36 and 04:20 is very good. 04:20, I can't say anything but how lucky the video man is, having a whale spinning its body to welcome 3 girls is something no amount of money or practice or expertise can make this happen on demand.
04:40 the white water canoe guy looking at the sky, that is awesome dynamic range, same as 04:48 the two bikers.

A good one to compare HD2 vs HD3.
I like the photo kind of quality of its video when this camera stands still on a tripod at 01;22

The HD3 Black at such low cost, will change the way we do UW wide angle video. I can't wait to try HD3 Black.

#317240 Any thoughts about this light?

Posted by SPP on 26 September 2012 - 05:16 PM

Hi Guys,

Well, I do notice some Chinese factory tried to make dive video lights if not dive torch. For land torch they been successful , example Fenix. It is about who the final distributor is and what he the distributor can influence on the final design and components used by OEM. For UW use, its another story if OEM does not have a real hardcore diver and with electrical engineering background, its tough to make a good & safe product.

I have one Taiwan made light, http://www.brightsta...ore?id=40&Cid=6
Its supposedly 700 lumens and uses big 12V battery pack of 4.4A , can do near 3 hours burn time at full power, its OK but when I ripped open the unit ......there is another "danger" about it. Its 3cm diameter coin shape voltage regulator board is not integrated on the LED module head with cooling fins and all but is tucked away from LED module and next to the battery pack ( crazy !! ), only covered by a thin thermal fabric like shield. This kind of fabric is fireproof but the VR board being so hot at 91C when I tested it OUTSIDE the torch housing at 30C ambient temp.................is simply too careless a design where Lit-Ion battery manufacturers will consider 60C as max operating temperature ( some less ) and safety will need to kick in. The torch body being 100% plastic also can not remove heat like aluminum body can.

The claimed 10K lumens Archon brand is what I got. As someone who loves to experiment with torch, the Archon at that price is decent for collection. The Archon brand machining is not bad, the handle is not useless if the light is to be used as a handheld light but as video light using ball mount, it is indeed wobbly.

There is no rocket science for a battery pack. Get a Panasonic safe battery and get a very good controller board with complete safety features and have it run cool at maximum discharge/power. The 2006 Sony and major brands lit-ion laptop battery explosions nightmare have made design much safer today......if you buy the right components.

Agree this light 10K claimed lumens must be discounted haha, but still at USD700 it is affordable and one can buy it as toy or collection to keep. No matter what and how you mod this light, unless you add a safety vent valve and a different ON/OFF switch mechanism and re-do the battery pack, this light I still term quite "dangerous" because the battery pack is very powerful to drive such LED array and the spin-the-light-head to power ON , is not a good method for a torch this big and powerful . Why don't you show me a photo of the bottom part of the light head where the electrical contacts are and the battery pack you are using front view where it has its electrical contact for the light head. Who knows I can give you constructive input as a potential client.

If you said you will change the LED array, what brand and model will it be ? I will take a look at the manufacturer spec and see what improvement you can offer. I really don't mind paying a bit more for better performance. There is no custom LED array for anyone who can't commit to a minimum quantity. At this 100 watt power level , no dive light manufacturer/s can achieve enough sales to commit to a custom LED array design, so you will be using what is available in the market and not a custom one. So like how Intel loves to co-advertise with some PC brand "Intel Inside", is a good thing if you use a very good LED array.

I wouldn't say this light is a time bomb. But the battery pack physical design as-is from OEM, even if safe type battery is used ( it is ) and decent battery controller board with all safety features thrown in, its physical lay out is why I said the battery pack is "dangerous". If a user is careful, it is OK but if a user is careless on the battery pack handling, it can be "dangerous". If HDV post the photo of his light head and the battery pack, I will tell you what I mean, assuming it still retain OEM physical lay out.

What I notice sometime from China made products, their product is decent based on the component used, but lacking of physical "logical" design. One simple example. A spin-to-ON light is not something we want in a powerful unit. The o-ring then becomes dynamic in its application and what ever volcanic micro sand like Lembeh or Tulamben has, may one day ruined those o-rings. Magnetic type switch is more suitable as it can turn on the light without disturbing any o-ring seating in a big dive light. One can go the mechanical switch route, say push button, but all push button switch if it is a pure mechanical switch, will also need dynamic o-ring. Some push button switch is not pure mechanical when its tip has a magnet, so the switch assy can be in a wet environment or the sea water ambient surrounding and the actual light switching is delivered by magnetic field to a more robust waterproof chamber of the light. One such switch is found on Scubapro Meridian dive computer, this is one example I know of. The reason for Scubapro design it as such is, the shell of the dive comp can be a 100% hole free, except of course for the back cover when you replace the battery. Any real physical switching action where one side is ambient sea water and the other side is a dry chamber , then o-rings must be used as seal and they do fail eventually. For a watch type dive computer, its so small space allocation will make push buttons on the watch a design challenge if waterproof integrity and reliability is to match the old legendary Uwatec Aladin Pro grey dive computer or the newer Uwatec Galileo family.

Later guys,

#317180 Any thoughts about this light?

Posted by SPP on 26 September 2012 - 02:03 AM

Any news on your monster light? Posted Image

Hi Davide,

That light has a long history since May 2011.


You can buy it here :

Google it as : 10,000 lumens dive light

It comes under a few different brands today. Archon or Xi-Ware, same company and boss. They are not bad, I got two of it but I do not like its battery pack design much. I consider it dangerous if user is not "electrically smart". The light power is fantastic but it is approx -900 grams in water with battery, so it is heavy. I think I saw a video somewhere in this forum where a diver uses 1 of this Archon/XinWare middle and two Keldan on the side and the housing is medium size, not full blown DLSR, I forgot who the diver is, sorry.

No safety vent valve too, any light using as big or bigger than 32650 lithium ion battery , I would want a safety vent valve for in case of flooding. Let the light be total loss, as long as not my face being a total loss ha ha ha. Even low cost iTorch Video Pro4 uses a safety vent valve, it uses 32650 lithium ion battery. Funny enough my Sola 2000 has no safety venty valve.

ON/OFF sequence is not friendly, spin to ON. SPIN OFF>>>wait 2 seconds>>SPIN ON again and power reduce. It has 3 stages of brightness.
Value for money is very high , color temp is nice and beam spread super smooth. See my simple test.

Have fun shopping....

Attached Images

  • 2 x 10K lumens Archon as seen by D800.jpg
  • 2 x 10K Lumens Archon as seen by GoPro no 1.jpg
  • 2 x 10K lumens Archon as seen by GoPro no 2.jpg
  • 2 X 10K Lumens as seen by Sony RX100.JPG