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Member Since 28 Nov 2004
Offline Last Active Oct 01 2009 06:53 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: L&M Sunray Pro S HID

12 June 2009 - 10:23 AM


With regard to retrofitting your HIDs---

I saw this general need and developed a LED upgrade that is plug compatible with the L&M battery pods without any modifications. My first model FTECHX Classic 700 is priced at a lot less than the Sunray upgrades. It provides somewhat more than 700 lumens but I plan on making available much higher lumen output models that are similarly plug compatible and also very competitively priced.

I am very interested in your comment about the "old and faulty wet connector design". Could you be more specific about the connector issues.



In Topic: L&M Sunray Pro S HID

12 June 2009 - 10:03 AM

Hi Sasha.

I have the same HID lights, had them for years.

Yes, you can buy the HID bulb thru Welch Allyn, I've done it several times in the past years.
Cost is $230 per HID bulb, a lot less than the $350 at L&M!

Go here to order: http://www.walamp.co...891858382331020

You can change the bulb yourself, IF you're mechanically inclined and won't mind spending a couple of hours doing that. The bulb is VERY fragile, so careful when you're taking out the old one and installing the new one.
Sometimes it's trickly to pop the new bulb into the slot where the old one resides. Lubricating the sides (NOT the contacts!) of the black base of the bulb usually helps to get it to slide into place.

Also, unscrewing the light may be a bit tricky. Using a bench definitely helps. Ditto when you're screwing it back.
Also, make sure you lubricate the two o-rings inside the light, and careful with the top glass part.

I LOVE the lights, but I hate the wet connectors. They're fine if you use them a few times a year, but if you're like me and use them several times a week (given my uw film job) they're a bitch and require ultimate pampering, attention and anal-retentiveness to keep them clean. And even then, they often fail. I mention this to L&M, but (as usual), they don't care and deny the problem.

- You don't need any filters with the HIDs. They'll give you great color from the start, no need for post. When they work, or course.... (see above).

- I also looked into retrofitting my 2 HIDs and upgrade them to the LEDs. Basically, not worth the money. Also because you HAVE to change the battery pods, since the ones used with the LEDs use 3 connectors, not two like our Sunrays.

I've seen the LEDs at work, they're awesome. BUT, again, L&M is still using the old and faulty wet-connector design, which is still a major problem after a few dozen dives... Maybe good for weekend divers, but not for day to day production work. When will they learn?

My .05,


In Topic: Subtronic LED Video Lights

24 March 2009 - 11:05 AM

YES, this quite an IMPRESSIVE videolight!

Although, I'm a developer of a plug-compatible LED upgrade for Light & Motion Sunray halogen and HID systems (www.FTechX.com), I too find it difficult to draw good information with regard to specs, performance and actuality from marketing releases.

The Subtronic flyer, which is downloadable in German from their website, states that the battery capacity is 7.2 volts at 7.2 Ampere hours resulting in a total energy capacity of 52 watt-hours. The flyer also states that the LED is "6 x 7W" which suggests a total of 42 watts. The cited burntime of 75 minutes is consistent with the 52 watt-hour battery energy capacity BUT IGNORES THE REALISTIC INEFFICIENCY OF THE LED DRIVE CIRCUITRY. Thus either the actual power applied to the LEDs is less than 42 watts or the burntime is exagerrated.

7.2 volts would be the nominal voltage of 6 series connected 1.2volt NiMH cells. With a total of 18 AA sized NiMH cells, three strings of six in series, one could reasonably expect a 7.2Ah capacity.

By the way I was fascinated by the comments relating to ViDSLRs. Do you folks think there is a market for combination Strobes-Videolights?


In Topic: Broken buttons - easy way to fill holes?

17 March 2009 - 01:52 PM

Have 2 rotating buttons that are broken on consumer housings. I kayak dive a lot, so the housing takes a beating. Both buttons have basically fell out. One on an Olympus housing and one on an old Canon. I could do without those particular buttons, so in order to still use the housing, I would like to just plug up the holes that they occupy.

Does anyone have a recommendation on the type of glue or process to make a completely waterproof seal? I know many glues have trouble adhering to this housing material.

Thank you!


In the course of developing an LED light head to upgrade Light & Motion Sunray Halogen systems with a fully plug-compatible 700 lumen LED head, I tried a lot of adhesives on plastic and metal experimental systems. (On the system, FTechX Classic 700, now available for sale, I use only o-rings and quad-rings; www.FTechX.com ). The experimental systems were tested out at dive depths of over 80-feet and were watertight. Lab testing of the units was ok to >180-feet.

I've had very good luck with "3M Marine Adhesive Sealant, Fast Cure 5200". It is available at Home Depot stores. In my testing I used it to seal metal-to-metal and metal-to-plastic. I would recommend putting a stainless steel screw and nut thru the hole and sealing the whole thing up with that sealant. I'd glop the hole with the stuff, then put the screw thru it and place the nut on snuggly. Despite the title "Fast Cure" it takes 24 hours to fully cure so you don't have to rush.

Good luck!


In Topic: Werner LED lights

03 March 2009 - 07:39 PM

I have a few comments which might be useful. Although I too do not read German, I do have technical expertise in LED lights; I developed a LED videolight L&M upgrade (www.FTechX.com) that is fully compatible and wet pluggable.

The specs for the Werner LED ring lights are pretty straightforward. The LED R 36 consists of 72 individual white LEDs which collectively emit 1300lumens requiring an input power of 15.6watts ( 10.8V and 1440mA ). With the smallest Werner battery (112mmX62mmX31mm; 10.8V ; 1.6Ah) the burn time at full power should be about one hour. The spec sheet suggests that the 1300 lumen output is equivalent to a 100Watt tungsten lamp. This may be a bit aggressive but not wildly so (assumes 13lumens/watt for tungsten).

One open question is how the 75 angle is determined. The Werner light uses the natural focusing of the LED plastic lens AND appears to have these lenses in direct contact with the water. Under these circumstances, the effect of the plastic lens is reduced. (Try wearing your eyeglasses underwater without a mask!) Werner may have compensated for this effect for the reported measurement but it is not footnoted in their literature. IF the reported measurement was made in air then the angle in water would be significantly increased because the lens will NOT be as strong and the brightness will be weaker because the light is spread out further. Ill discuss this effect in a future Technology Blog (www.FTechX.com).

I hope these comments help.