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#349182 Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by coroander on 17 June 2014 - 03:46 PM

There's zero chance that good results will be obtained with the 9-18mm behind the 3.5" or 4.33" dome ports. These ports are far too curved to allow the corners to have any chance of ever being in focus.

The 9-18mm behind the 4" semi-dome (which has the same optical radius as the 6" semi-dome for the 7-14mm) with a +2 diopter looks excellent.


12mm test results behind the 4.33" dome:



Storker's 9-18mm test results behind the 4" semi-dome:


#344013 Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by coroander on 02 March 2014 - 12:53 PM

You can use the focus gear for the 60mm macro in the 12-50mm port.

#343570 OM-D EM-5 Nauticam with 9-18 zuiko?

Posted by coroander on 19 February 2014 - 11:25 AM

The soft corners are because the curved virtual image that we are photographing has the corners much closer to the sensor than the centre. We rely on depth of field for the corners to be in focus (but it's often just not enough). I think that the diopters work by causing the image to appear further away to the camera (the camera focus changes from say 0.4m to 0.8m). This, of course, also allows you to get much closer to your subject because the minimum focus distance is now much closer than where the camera thinks it's focusing. By making the virtual image appear further away, the focus distance is also at a place where depth of field is greater and the corners can now be sharper. That's my take on it, i've never read why this works, but this seems reasonable.

#343312 Wide Angle Recommendations for OM-D EM-5 or EM-1

Posted by coroander on 13 February 2014 - 08:04 PM

Over-and-unders with the Panasonic 8mm FE behind the Nauticam 4.33" dome:

  • Use manual focus *
  • Pre-focus on something about 50-60cm (1.5-2 ft) away from the front of the dome in the air (like your knee or a fin)
  • Use f/11
  • Take the shot
  • If you are shooting something underwater that is very close, then you can drop the in-air pre-focus down to 35-40cm (1.1-1.3 ft) from the front of the dome and use f/13.
  • In-air pre-focus distances greater than 60cm (2 ft) from the front of the dome have no use.

If you instead focus on something in the water, nothing above water will be in focus unless it's almost touching the dome. And if you focus on something at any distance from the camera above water, nothing underwater will be in focus.


* you need to have your camera configured to separate focus from the shutter ( http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=48625 ), we still use autofocus to focus, but with the camera in manual focus mode and using the back lever on the Nauticam housing to trigger focus.

#342726 Wide Angle Recommendations for OM-D EM-5 or EM-1

Posted by coroander on 02 February 2014 - 09:36 AM

I won't use this lens underwater again without the diopter.


Just looking at the geometry of the 52mm +5 with a step up ring and it seems like there should be no large difference between doing this and using a B+W 46mm +5 directly. I think the 46mm is preferable and may produce somewhat better results.


The focus distance changes very little behind the dome -- since the virtual image only extends from about 0.10m touching the dome to about 0.22m (maybe 0.26m) at infinity, and for distances from 1m and beyond, there's very little change at all. So no reason to believe there won't be a similar improvement at all focus distances. I'll try a close focus test (at minimum focus for no diopter) sometime.

#328651 Underwater settings for the Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by coroander on 26 March 2013 - 10:26 AM

Set Custom Menu -> I. Movie -> Movie Effect -> to "Off".

#322618 Underwater settings for the Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by coroander on 13 December 2012 - 02:01 PM

E-M5 Video Settings: alterations to the above
The following are additions and alterations of the modes above for shooting video, these settings are based on the assumption that all the settings above have been set first. It's worth saving the above settings in a "MySet" for UW stills photography, before setting the camera up for video. Before saving it's a good idea to set the default ISO, shutter speed and aperture you want the camera to go back to when restoring from Myset. To save under Myset4: Shooting Menu 1 -> Reset/Myset -> scroll down to Myset4, press right arrow -> OK. N.B.: the only difference between saving and restoring is the "press right arrow" used during save and not restore.

Turn the Mode dial to [VIDEO] before making these changes.

  • Shooting Menu 1
    • Picture Mode-> Custom
    • Picture Mode -> Natural
    • Contrast -> +0
    • Sharpness -> +0
    • Saturation -> +1
    • Gradation -> AUTO
      Personal preference for shooting video. Others may prefer Vivid. Bumping up the Saturation seems necessary to get good colour, some may prefer +2. AUTO Gradation is very important for helping to map the 12+ stops of dynamic range in the sensor to the 8 bit video, but it's only part of the solution.
  • <| -> Movie-> MOVIE FullHD [F]
    Highest quality HD video.
  • Shooting Menu 2
  • Image Stabilizer > I.S. 1
    Provides horizontally and vertically stabilized video.
  • Custom Menu
    • A. AF/MF
      • AF Mode. -> Movie -> MF or C-AF
        Using manual focus provides the best control over focus during video, but continuous autofocus has it's advantages and provides smoother focus transitions.
    • D. Disp / ))) / PC
      • Info Settings -> LV-Info
      • Histogram -> On
      • Highlight&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;Shadow -> Off
      • Level Guage -> Off
      • Image Only -> Off
        When looking through the viewfinder we will be able to see a histogram that will allow us to adjust exposure and tone curves appropriately. Highlight&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;Shadow is not an available option when shooting video.
    • Histogram Settings
    • Highlight -> 250
    • Shadow -> 5
      We set the histogram settings a bit more conservatively for video given that we can't shoot raw video.
  • I. Movie
    • [MOVIE] Mode. -> M or S
      Use Manual exposure mode or Shutter priority mode.
Button Settings:
  • Custom Menu
  • B. Button/Dial
  • Button Function
  • Fn1 Function -> AF Area Select
    Allows the Fn1 button to select which AF point(s) are to be used.
  • Fn2 Function -> Multi Function
    We use Multi Function because it is the only way to access the tone curve adjustment directly. To get Fn2 into tone curve adjustment mode after these settings are complete, hold down Fn2, then turn the dial until Highlight&amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;amp;Shadow Control is selected. Pressing Fn2 will now always bring up the tone curve, which can be adjusted using the 2 dials or the 4 arrow keys.
  • [Rec] Function -> Off
    Turning this button Off means that it will function as the autofocus button. Hold the [Rec] button down (thumb level on the Nauticam housing) until focus is achieved. N.B. just a quick depress of this button will not lock focus, it must be held down until focus is achieved. If the focus mode is C-AF+TR, then pressing this button will aquire a tracking target at the autofocus point.
  • [>] Function -> ISO
    Provides direct access to changing ISO by pressing the right arrow key. ISO is limited to between 200 and 3200 for video.
  • [v] Function -> WB
    Direct access to WB. It is important to get the white balance correct as PP fixes will degrade image quality. Use Underwater, AUTO white balance with a Magic Filter, or a captured WB.
[/list][/list]UNDERWATER USE
To record video, turn the mode dial to [VIDEO], then press the shutter release to start / stop recording. Note that in some focus modes, recording will not start unless you continue holding the shutter release down until focus has locked.

Getting the correct white balance:
We need to get the white balance correct at the time of recording. While it is possible to adjust this during editing, it will degrade the video quality if significant adjustments must be made.

Pressing the down arrow key will bring up the white balance selection. One option is to select Underwater. Another option is to use a Magic Filter and simply use AUTO. A third option is to set a custom white balance for the depth you are at and the distance you are shooting using a white slate.

To set a custom white balance in video mode is a bit complicated. You have to first switch the Mode dial to M(anual), press OK to get to the SCP, select the WB, press OK, select Capture WB 1 or 2 and press INFO (not OK), point the camera at a white or grey slate, press the shutter, select YES and press OK to set the WB, then switch the mode dial back to [VIDEO].

Getting the correct shutter speed and exposure mode:
There are two useful modes for video, M (manual) and S (shutter speed priority). In both cases, the recommended shutter speed is twice the frame rate, or 1/60 of a second. This provides the most natural looking video. Slowing the shutter speed results in a more dreamy, soft video and increasing the shutter speed lends itself to a crisper, stobing video when there is movement. In Shutter priority mode, shutter speed is fixed, but ISO and aperture will be varied, in Manual you must control aperture, ISO and shutter speed. You can change exposure mode by bringing up the Live Control Panel (by pressing OK). Note that in M mode, exposure adjustments are not possible during recording.

Getting the correct exposure:
Video demands that we get the exposure, contrast, and level adjustments correct at the time of recording. We can't shoot raw, 12-bit video on our stills cameras (yet) and leave these details for the editing room. Fortunately the E-M5 has several features to assist us.

Pressing INFO will turn on (or turn off) the histogram, you can adjust the ISO and exposure settings to acheive optimal exposure, avoiding the orange overexposure or blue underexposure bars. The green section of the histogram shows the exposure at the focus point; a sort of spot histogram that can be useful in some situations.

Pressing the Fn2 button will bring up the tone curve adjustments. You can use the dials or arrow keys to adjust the curve. The curves allow adjustments for optimal recording in high dynamic range situations such as inside caverns, to low contrast situations like large pelagics in the blue at depth. You can see the affect of the adjustments in the live viewfinder. While adjusting the tone curves you can still see the live histogram and you may need to make additional exposure adjustments to compensate for extensive curve adjustments.

Getting control of focus:
Pressing OK will bring up the Live Control Panel (LCP), the arrow keys (or dials) will allow you to move through the menus easily. You can quickly change focus modes using the LCP.

S-AF, MF, and S-AF+MF all focus in the same manner. Focus is achieved by holding the [REC] button (thumb lever on Nauticam housing) down. This is a fast (and consequenly rather bouncy) focus, so altering focus during recording is not ideal. The button must be held down until focus is achieved, releasing the button early will stop the autofocus in some more-or-less random place.

C-AF is continuous auto focus. Pointing the focus point at whatever object you want in focus, the focus is slow, smooth and deliberate and is ideal for focusing during recording.

C-AF+TR is continuous auto focus with tracking. The tracking will often lose whatever it is you want to track, but putting the original focus point back on the subject and pressing the [REC] button will reaquire the target.

Digital Tele-converter:
Using the 8mm fisheye or other wide-angle prime or even for macro video it can be beneficial to have a narrower angle of view. The Digital Tele-converter can be found in Shooting Menu 1, and enabling it gives a 2x zoom with no loss in video quality.

Saving the video settings under Myset:
It's worth saving the video settings in a "MySet" now that the changes have been made. Do set shutter speed to 1/60 first so that it defaults to a reasonable value when restoring from these settings. You'll also have to switch the Mode dial to M to use "MySet". To save under Myset3: Shooting Menu 1 -> Reset/Myset -> scroll down to Myset3 and press right arrow -> OK.

To use the saved settings, go to Shooting Menu 1 -> Reset/Myset -> Scroll down to Myset3 or Myset4 and press OK.

#321716 Underwater settings for the Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by coroander on 29 November 2012 - 11:03 PM

  • Live View Boost -> Off (wide-angle) On (macro)
    Turn this On to prevent the EVF from showing the effects of under/over exposure of the available light. Turning this on will also prevent the EVF from displaying highlight an shadow clipping accurately, and so this should generally remain Off for wide-angle or available light photography, but may be turned on for most macro photography (when strobes are being used).

#321395 Underwater settings for the Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by coroander on 25 November 2012 - 10:43 AM

The E-M5 is a highly customisable camera and there are a lot of considerations (and personal preferences) for underwater use. However, i thought it might be useful to try to prepare at least a starting point for configuring the camera for underwater use.
This is a work in progress; comments & criticism most welcome.


  • Setup Menu
  • Rec View -> 2sec
    This allows the image to be seen through the viewfinder for 2 seconds after it is taken. However, if action is really fast, you won't want to wait for 2 seconds before you see the live action again, so all you have to do is half depress the shutter to cancel the view of the image you just shot. The information presented along with the review image is the same as the current playback (LCD review) mode (press the blue arrow button and then press INFO until you see the info you want to see after pressing the shutter.)
  • Custom Menu
    • A. AF/MF
      • AF Illuminat. -> Off
        Turning on the red AF light on the camera body isn't going to help you focus underwater when the camera is in a housing, so best to turn it off.
      • Reset Lens -> Off
        Set to Off to prevent the camera from reseting the focus on you.
    • D. Disp / ))) / PC
      • Control Settings -> P/A/S/M
      • Live Control -> Off
      • Live SCP -> On
        Turning Live Control off and Live SCP panel on ensures that you can gain access to the Super Control Panel by just pressing the OK button. If you enable both then you'll either enter Live Control or SCP when you press the OK button (and need to press INFO to switch between them), but both control systems provide similar functionality so you don't need both and SCP is just easier to use. If you plan to use iAUTO mode underwater, you should do the same for iAUTO mode.
    • Info Settings -> LV-Info
    • Histogram -> Off
    • Highlight&Shadow -> On
    • Level Guage -> Off
    • Image Only -> Off
      When looking through the viewfinder you can change the infomation presented to you by pressing the INFO button. By reducing the number of options, you'll spend less time messing about. Here we enable highlight and shadow clipping indicators, which allows excellent control over exposure (turn the shutter speed until highlight clipping can be seen, then turn in back slightly.)
    • Histogram Settings
    • Highlight -> 255
    • Shadow -> 3
      These settings control when the highlight clipping and shadow clipping indicators come into play. By decreasing the indicators one can make more use of the excellent dynamic range of this camera and more easily avoid unwanted highlight cliping in scenes with very high dynamic range (where both shadow clipping and highlight clipping indicators are visible.) Note that Adobe Lightroom 4.1 provides excellent shadow and highlight recovery from RAW images that is simply not accessible in most other software packages. Others recommend 250 and 5, which may be safer.
    • Live View Boost -> On
      Turn this On to prevent the EVF from showing the effects of under/over exposure of the available light.
    • Info Off -> Hold
      This simply ensures that the information about various settings is always shown in the viewfinder, otherwise it disappears after the time (in seconds) set.
  • J. Built-In EVF
    • EVF Auto Switch -> Off
      Above water this allows the proximity detector to switch the live view from the back LCD to the EVF when your eye is up to the EVF. In a housing this will not work. Underwater, you can switch manually using the viewfinder lever on the housing, if needed.
    • Frame Rate -> Normal
      You need to set this to High for shooting birds in flight, but underwater the Normal frame rate is much faster than will ever be needed. When you set the frame rate to High you reduce the ability of the camera to accurately display highlight and shadow warnings; for this reason you don't want to use High unless it's absolutely essential.
  • Shooting Menu 1
  • <| -> Still Picture -> RAW
    You must shoot RAW to get the full image detail and dynamic range this camera offers.
  • Shooting Menu 2
    • RC Mode -> Off
      RC Mode works only with modern Olympus flashes and sends control signals via flash pulses to control the relative outputs of external flashes. Unless you are using an Olympus flash underwater, turning on RC Mode will increase shutter lag, decrease camera battery life, and limit sync speed to 1/160 of a second*.
  • Custom Menu
    • F. [Flash] Custom
    • X-Sync -> 1/250
      Ensures you can shoot with external strobes up to 1/250 of a second.
    • Slow Limit -> 1/15
      Lowest shutter speed the camera will use in A, P, and Auto ISO modes.
Button Settings:
  • Custom Menu
  • B. Button/Dial
  • Button Function
  • Fn1 Function -> MF
    Allows switching between AF-ON focus and shutter button focus modes. See Underwater Operation below. This is not essential as changing the focus mode can be done easily though the SCP. Feel free to map this to some other function you might use more frequently.
  • Fn2 Function -> Magnify
    Quick access to the magnify function which isn't used for magnify but rather is used to gain access to a small focus point. Tap once to bring up the autofocus point, hold the button down for 0.5 seconds to cancel this mode. Taping the button a second time will actually magnify the image; do this and then turn the dial until you see 14x; tap again to return to your autofocus point. Now the autofocus point will be very small which allows for better focus point selection. You only ever need to do this magnify and set to 14x once, the camera will remember your choice.
  • [Rec] Function -> AEL/AFL
    Allows the record button (thumb lever on the Nauticam housing) (instead of a shutter half-press) to be used for focus, when using AF-ON (mode3) focus (see Focus Strategies Below).
  • [>] Function -> ISO
    Provides direct access to changing ISO by pressing the right arrow key.
  • [v] Function -> Flash Mode
    Direct access to flash mode by pressing the down arrow key. Could be assigned to some other function.
  • [<^v>] Function -> Direct Function
[/list][/list]Focus Settings:

The purpose of this is to allow for quick, efficient switching of focus modes even while underwater. With just a single button press one can choose between auto focus and AF-ON (focus on record button press / thumb lever on Nauticam housing).
  • Custom Menu
    • A. AF/MF
      • AF Mode -> MF or S-AF
        Use MF if you want to focus using the record button (thumb lever on Nauticam housing), S-AF if you want to focus on half-press of shutter. Whatever you chose, you can easily change this via the SCP underwater.
      • Full-time AF -> Off
        You don't want this on for any focus mode.
      • AEL/AFL
      • S-AF -> mode1
        When S-AF is the focus mode chosen in the SCP, then focus will be on half press of shutter button.
      • C-AF -> mode3
        When C-AF is the focus mode chosen in the SCP, then focus will be manual with continuous autofocus available by holding down the record button (thumb lever on Nauticam housing). Note that you generally will want to continue holding the record button/thumb lever in while pressing the shutter in continuous focus mode to ensure focus during the exposure.
      • MF -> mode3
        When MF is the focus mode chosen in the SCP, then focus will be manual with autofocus available by pressing the record button/thumb lever.
    • Face Priority -> Off
      Prevents the camera from taking control of focus to focus on things which only remotely resemble faces.
  • C. Release/[[[]]]
    • Rls Priority S -> On
      This ensures that images can still be taken if focus was not achieved in S-AF mode.
    • Rls Priority C -> Off
      This ensures that images are not taken unless focus was achieved in C-AF mode. Note that this only applies if you are holding down the record button/thumb lever; if you have released the record button/thumb lever, you'll still be able to take images without focus lock.
    • Half Way Rls With IS -> On
      This allows image stabilisation to start when the shutter is released half way and thus provides an image stabilised EVF when the shutter is pressed half way.
Flash Mode:
  • Manual:
    Has the advantage of longer camera battery life, no shutter lag and minimal recycle time. Press OK to see the SCP, select flash with the arrow keys, press OK and use the arrow keys or dial to select "Manual Value", press OK. Back at the SCP, just underneath the flash mode is the manual flash power, select this and choose 1/64 (the minimum).
  • TTL:
    Press OK to see the SCP, select flash with the arrow keys, press OK and use the arrow keys or dial to select "Fill In", and press OK.
With the settings above, you'll never have to use the menu system to change settings underwater. You'll be able to get to everything directly through buttons on the back or through the SCP which can all be done with your eye on the viewfinder.

Focus Mode:
  • Press OK to bring up the SCP. You can now switch between MF, S-AF, and C-AF.
  • In single autofocus (S-AF) mode, half pressing (or fully pressing) the shutter will focus.
  • In manual focus (MF) mode, pressing the record button (thumb lever on Nauticam housing) will trigger the auto focus. If you have a manual focus gear, you can focus simply by turning the focus knob in this mode.
  • In continuous autofocus mode (C-AF), you'll need to hold down the record button (thumb lever on Nauticam housing) to continuously focus on a (typically) moving object. Keep the record button held down while pressing the shutter to ensure the photo is taken while focus is locked.
  • Pressing F1 will switch instantly between MF and S-AF or C-AF (whichever of the later 2 was last used).
Improving Focus Point Selection:
You can obtain a smaller focus point to more accurately target what you want in focus using the magnify mode. Tap the F2 Button to switch into Magnify mode. In this mode a single focus point is shown. If this is the first time you've done this, then tap the F2 button again to magnify the image (you will not normally ever enter magnify mode underwater), turn the dial until you see 14x. Now tap the F2 button a third time. You'll return to the single focus point mode, but now the focus point will be small. You can move this focus point around using the arrow keys (note that the magnify focus point is independent of the main focus point(s) position.) To cancel the magnify focus point, hold the F2 button down for 0.5 seconds or longer.

Changing ISO:
Just press the right arrow key, then use the arrow keys (or dial) to select the ISO and press OK.

Getting the correct exposure:
Shooting wide angle, we often want to use the longest exposure that doesn't blow out the highlights. The advantage of the EVF is that we can see, before we take the image, whether we are going to blow the highlights. We enabled shadow & highlight mode (pressing INFO will still toggle our highlights&shadows on/off), so now we just increase the exposure until the highlights start getting coloured orange, then back off slightly until the orange goes away. When shooting directly into the sun, the sun will always be orange no matter what settings we choose, but we can limit the amount of water around the sun that's blown out. And, given the settings we've used, you'll also see the highlights and shadow warnings shown after the image is taken. Advanced users may wish to consider using UniWB to improve the accuracy of this method (see http://forums.dprevi...s/post/41245342 .)

It's also worth considering setting up the LCD playback (blue arrow button) to show shadow&highlight, when this is done, the image review in the EVF will also show shadow&highlight clipping blinkies, which is useful for ensuring the strobes didn't cause blown highlights.

#320494 Nikon D7000 or Olympus OM-D E-M5?

Posted by coroander on 13 November 2012 - 07:06 PM

To add to the above discussion about AF-ON, you can assign a button (Fn1 or Fn2 for instance) to turn on Magnify. Magnify is useful because a single button tap doesn't magnify at all, it shows its own single autofocus point, and you can make that autofocus point small (tap the Magnify button again to actually magnify the image, then turn the dial to 14x, tap a third time to get back to the full image with the small autofocus point, you only ever have to do this once). You can move the small autofocus point around using the arrow keys. The Magnify autofocus point's position is independent from the main autofocus point(s), so you can position them in different places (if that's useful). To get out of Magnify (back to your main autofocus point(s)), hold the Magnify button down for more than 1/2 second.

I strongly recommend having a button assigned to Magnify, hunting can be reduced and focus accuracy (or rather, being about to accurately choose the point of focus) improves considerably.

Also you can replace C-AF with S-AF in the instructions above to make pressing the lever focus just a single time rather than focus continuously while it's held down.

#320491 Nikon D7000 or Olympus OM-D E-M5?

Posted by coroander on 13 November 2012 - 06:41 PM

No problem reassigning all the buttons on the OM-D...

Custom Menu -> A. AF/MF -> AF Mode -> Still Picture -> C-AF
Custom Menu -> A. AF/MF -> Full-time AF -> Off
Custom Menu -> A. AF/MF -> AEL/AFL -> C-AF -> mode3
Custom Menu -> B. Button/Dial -> Button Function -> O Function (REC) -> AEL/AFL

After this, the camera will not focus when you press the shutter button, only while you hold the REC button, which is the thumb lever on the Nauticam housing. [If you'd rather not have the camera focus continuously while holding down the REC button, replace C-AF with S-AF above and pressing the REC button will simply focus once.] If you want to record video, just change the Mode dial to Video...

And for good measure, might as well turn the AF light off since it can't do anything in the housing:
Custom Menu -> A. AF/MF -> AF Illuminat. -> Off

#318160 Sony NEX with 8mm fisheye

Posted by coroander on 10 October 2012 - 06:01 PM

I'm using the Nauticam 4.33" dome port for micro 4/3. This supports 180 degree diagonal fisheyes. This new f/2.8 fisheye for Sony is a 180 degree diagonal fisheye, so as long as the lens doesn't end up too far back inside the port (it shouldn't), then there should be no vignetting.

Because it's a dome port, it creates a virtual image (the dome port becomes a lens underwater). While it depends somewhat on the lens and camera, you should expect the virtual image with this port to extend from about 10cm to 20cm in front of the sensor; 10cm is for objects touching the front of the dome, 20cm for objects at infinity. Theoretically, you could focus at 13cm and with a large enough f-number have everything from touching the dome to infinity in focus. Except that once you go beyond f/11 diffraction is almost certainly going to soften the images though f/16 may still be acceptable (though doubtful). It may be that focusing at about 15cm at f/11 is just an all around better solution. Some trial an error is likely in order, but if you set the focus at .15m and f/11 and stuff at infinity is soft, then you'll have to adjust the focus closer to .18m. If stuff at infinity is sharp then you can work your way towards .13m.

The lens has a minimum focus of .1m, so there won't be a problem with focus inside Nauticam's 4.33" dome.

Go the m43 route and you can get a bunch of fantastic auto-focus solutions for wide angle, macro, zoom, video, etc. :-)