Here's a crop of a photo I did really quickly this morning. On the left is my standard treatment for haze, dropping the black level (to -50 in this case). On the right is de-haze at 45.
There is definitely some combination of contrast, black level and clarity going on there. What I thought was most interesting is that it looks like the color shifted too. This shark is more gray on the right.
In reading the press release for the new 8mm fisheye PRO lens from Olympus, I see this paragraph (emphasis added):
Underwater Lens Port, PPO-EP02
This accessory is 15% smaller, and 30% lighter than the previous Lens Port, PPO-E04, for a more compact and lightweight product. When exchange the lens port on Underwater Case for the E-M1 (PT-EP11) or Underwater Case for the E-M5 (PT-EP08), a compact system with the M.Zuiko Digital ED 8mm f1.8 Fisheye PRO even underwater is available.
The hood section can be removed to reduce waves for over-under shots.
(Rear Cover (PRPC-EP02) and Front Cover (PBC-EP02) are bundled)
There are plans for starting a lens port exchanging service on Underwater Case for E-M5 Mark II (PT-EP13), for E-PL7 (PT-EP12), and for E-PL5/E-PL6 (PT-EP10), with the PPO-EP02.
A firmware update that adds the Underwater picture mode to the OM-D E-M1/E-M5 Mark II is planned to be released coincide with the sale of this lens. In addition to the traditional underwater mode, it will be possible to capture vivid underwater shots even in P/A/S modes without bluish tint.
Does anyone understand what the 2nd paragraph actually means? Will there be a way to make this new lens and port compatible with the older Pen housings?
Has anyone tried this combo. My EPL5/E-PT10 is pretty front heavy, especially with a subsee lens hanging off the front. I've made it a bit better by cutting some floor cushioning tile into strips and wrapping it around the port, but it's too compressible. So I thought I'd look into the STiX stuff.
I imagine it will be too big out of the box for my setup, but it looks easy enough to cut down to size to make something low profile that matches the port rather well.
I just jumped ship to Olympus (E-PL5 and EP-PT10) after a long time with Canon. The housing is not much bigger in any particular direction than the Canon G10/12/15/16 housings. I've been really happy with this switch so far. The camera is much more responsive. You might consider that before thinking about even a small SLR and the Ikelite box.
I find it offensive that you assume i have pulled the money for this trip off a money tree. I have been saving for a long time to go on this trip, long hours in work, night shifts and overtime!! So please don't assume what my circumstances are, the money means a lot to me as it does to them.
Another point that doesn't sit well with me is- if i provide a good service to a client i never get tipped, ever. However, i have to tip a waiter or a taxi driver?? Someone please tell me why i should, it's not an automatic right to be tipped. If they aren't earning enough, work more. That's what i do. I don't get handouts like many other services..
No doubt the service on this trip will be great and i will tip, i just don't like to be ask for it.
I don't assume anything of the sort about you. I work hard and long to be able to afford a trip too, but I look into what's expected of me and budget for it, not decide that I'm going to make some poor stiff work for free so I can get a 10% "discount" on my vacation.
Re: "Work more." I'm sure it's different where you are (which is the cause of this culture clash) but waiters in the US usually make something like $2/hr and *share* their tips with the bartenders, bus boys, dish washers etc. At $2/hr you can't just work more and make a reasonable salary. I think most taxi drivers rent their taxi and aren't paid a salary at all.
Look, this is all just a difference of how you pay for what you get. I can go out to eat in the US for less overall than I can when I'm in Europe. A lot less, usually, even after I've tipped my expected 15-20% on my meal. Whether its a tip, an 18% service charged added to my bill, or just a high price where the proprietor pays a good wage, in the end its the same amount of money. The same is true of your live aboard staff.
As for the notice you received on suggested tipping amount, wouldn't you rather have them tell you that than to not think of it (because you are from a different culture) and then feel bad when you don't have the $$$$ and realize the boat staff just busted their butts for you for free for the whole week?
FWIW, when tipping on a trip I try to think about who's working for me and how much they "deserve" but in the end 10% total works out pretty close to correct. For instance, for a DM that helps you on the boat, $5/tank is considered in the US to be a minimum for decent service. Obviously their service is worth more if they point out good critters, help you with a big camera rig, etc. Maids a couple of dollars/night/person. I could go on, but on a live aboard or at a resort, there are people taking care of you constantly.
So rail on about what a bunch of jerks us colonists are, :-) especially the bosses, but don't make your dive master take the hit for it.
I guess the OP has now figured out that the Inon strobe manuals are horrible and near completely worthless. There is a Reef (I think) article out there that is much clearer about what the various dials do and what settings you want to use for various configurations. Here it is: http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7 That one page is so much more helpful than the word salad Inon puts out.
diverdoug, what questions do you have? May be best just to put them out here.
For a beginning diver or a a beginning underwater photographer, the best way to get decent photos of your trip is to make friends with a more experienced photographer. :-) The next best way will be to pay someone from the dive center to take photos of/for you.
Yes, with dedication and picking he right subjects you can get half-way decent photographs even with a P&S without an external strobe. But it takes work. Lots of people seem to have the thought that just by buying the right camera they can "buy" better underwater photos, but it doesn't work that way. A better camera system allows you to develop your skills more, but it won't instantly make a difference.
So concentrate on your skills and buy beers for someone else and ask for copies of their photos. Most people will oblige.
Hello, I am new to this forum and I have a similar question. I am a photographer. I've recently upgraded my Lightroom and Photoshop and my 5 year old computer is suffocating. I am thinking of buying a new model that will fly with the new image processing tools. The performance and reliability is my preference. I don't know which is better - a desktop or a laptop. If the laptop I don't have any preference to its weight since I am mostly going to use it in the office. All my applications are Windows based, but from this thread I understood it shouldn't be a problem to switch to Mac if that is the only option I have. I am not extremely technical, also I've changed hard drives, a fan and RAM a few times. My preference is the fully assembled unit with the OS installed. What would this nice community recommend for me? Thank you!
If you are never going to take the laptop out of the office, why spend the money for portability, battery, etc.
Do you have a monitor you can re-use? If so, no need to buy a new one.
I'll tell you what I just did. I got rid of a 4-year old PC (pretty beefy at the time) in it's big case, etc. and replaced it with a MacMini. I got the fully tricked out Mac with 2.6(7) GHz CPU and the 1 TB Fusion drive. I didn't buy the Apple memory because it's expensive and installing your own is dead simple (sounds like you've done that). This machine is really snappy. Raw CPU power for LR rending is probably 50% higher than I had before, but the fusion (combo SSD/regular hard drive) makes so many things so quick.
I've shot Canon G Series cameras for several years now. (G10, G12, and now G15.)
Recently I bought what I thought would be a Canon OEM housing for the G15 but it's a knock-off Meikon which has the interesting feature of a 67mm thread on the front. So now I'm thinking about wet lenses. :-)
How does one use, in practice, a lens like the SubSea +5 or +10 with this camera? The reason I ask is that I find that what limits my macro ability is the working distance. I use the C1/C2 settings now to set me up for my "practical maximum magnification" which means setting the zoom lens at a minimum focus distance of about 10-15cm. When using these diopter lenses, do people set the zoom at the long end and then flip in the lens giving both more magnification and more working distance?
suggestions on what kind of diopter setting is appropriate for these cameras. And also what's worthwhile as wide angle wet lenses? (I know the Inon somethingZ80 is a possibliity).