I agree with everyone else. Do option #1, (Lightroom Classic and Photoshop) it's the option for serious photographers. Lightroom CC is trying to play in the Apple/Google space and while its probably great for that, it's not for me. You can often find a one-year renewal deal for about $85 once or twice a year. That's about what I was paying for Lr upgrades in the old days and never had Photoshop.
I've modified my optical sync system at least two or three times now and each time I give Jack a call at Optical Ocean, chat with him about what I have and he helps find the best way to re-use as much as possible. All for a $20 sale. I can't say enough good things about his service.
External auto works with your camera in manual mode but the strobe itself monitors and sets the exposure through the sensor on the front. Of course, you have to have the strobe pointed at the subject.
Advanced cancel mode makes the preflash much brighter than usual. This tricks your camera to make the main flash dimmer from the camera and then the strobe compensates. The point of this is to not drain your camera's batteries with the main flash and to shorten the cycle time.
I've got more or less the same setup (E-PL5, Z-240, D-2000). There are two possible options for you on the Inon strobes. Well, three:
0) Shoot manual
1) Use the E-TTL in which the strobe itself does the exposure. I've never tried this
2) See if, using the right setting of the magnet switch, you can boost the power of the pre-flash so that the main flash does not suck much out of the camera (this means setting the camera and strobe to TTL)
2) is incompatible with 0) which is why I don't use it.
BTW, you're not going to reduce "shutter lag" per se, but you can get the camera to fire more frequently with the 1/64th setting. However, you'd probably still end up with 2/3 of the frames dark since the external strobe won't be able to cycle as fast as the camera strobe (unless you are using very little power).
Thanks buddy. But the Malaysian Ringgit isn't strong...
Haha... I might have to make my own gear... Thanks
Ah, sorry. Anyhow, from reading up before I ordered my gear, I do think you can do what you want. Switch into the underwater modes to advance the zoom to one limit or the other and then switch back into manual or whatever. It'll be a little fiddly, but better than nothing.
Carry on my entire m4/3 system plus mask, dive computer, all batteries and charger. I wrap everything in a couple of days of clothes and put it in a roll-aboard. Always get a laptop in there and sometimes my regs.
Here's a crop of a photo I did really quickly this morning. On the left is my standard treatment for haze, dropping the black level (to -50 in this case). On the right is de-haze at 45.
There is definitely some combination of contrast, black level and clarity going on there. What I thought was most interesting is that it looks like the color shifted too. This shark is more gray on the right.
In reading the press release for the new 8mm fisheye PRO lens from Olympus, I see this paragraph (emphasis added):
Underwater Lens Port, PPO-EP02
This accessory is 15% smaller, and 30% lighter than the previous Lens Port, PPO-E04, for a more compact and lightweight product. When exchange the lens port on Underwater Case for the E-M1 (PT-EP11) or Underwater Case for the E-M5 (PT-EP08), a compact system with the M.Zuiko Digital ED 8mm f1.8 Fisheye PRO even underwater is available.
The hood section can be removed to reduce waves for over-under shots.
(Rear Cover (PRPC-EP02) and Front Cover (PBC-EP02) are bundled)
There are plans for starting a lens port exchanging service on Underwater Case for E-M5 Mark II (PT-EP13), for E-PL7 (PT-EP12), and for E-PL5/E-PL6 (PT-EP10), with the PPO-EP02.
A firmware update that adds the Underwater picture mode to the OM-D E-M1/E-M5 Mark II is planned to be released coincide with the sale of this lens. In addition to the traditional underwater mode, it will be possible to capture vivid underwater shots even in P/A/S modes without bluish tint.
Does anyone understand what the 2nd paragraph actually means? Will there be a way to make this new lens and port compatible with the older Pen housings?
Has anyone tried this combo. My EPL5/E-PT10 is pretty front heavy, especially with a subsee lens hanging off the front. I've made it a bit better by cutting some floor cushioning tile into strips and wrapping it around the port, but it's too compressible. So I thought I'd look into the STiX stuff.
I imagine it will be too big out of the box for my setup, but it looks easy enough to cut down to size to make something low profile that matches the port rather well.