I guess the OP has now figured out that the Inon strobe manuals are horrible and near completely worthless. There is a Reef (I think) article out there that is much clearer about what the various dials do and what settings you want to use for various configurations. Here it is: http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7 That one page is so much more helpful than the word salad Inon puts out.
diverdoug, what questions do you have? May be best just to put them out here.
For a beginning diver or a a beginning underwater photographer, the best way to get decent photos of your trip is to make friends with a more experienced photographer. :-) The next best way will be to pay someone from the dive center to take photos of/for you.
Yes, with dedication and picking he right subjects you can get half-way decent photographs even with a P&S without an external strobe. But it takes work. Lots of people seem to have the thought that just by buying the right camera they can "buy" better underwater photos, but it doesn't work that way. A better camera system allows you to develop your skills more, but it won't instantly make a difference.
So concentrate on your skills and buy beers for someone else and ask for copies of their photos. Most people will oblige.
Hello, I am new to this forum and I have a similar question. I am a photographer. I've recently upgraded my Lightroom and Photoshop and my 5 year old computer is suffocating. I am thinking of buying a new model that will fly with the new image processing tools. The performance and reliability is my preference. I don't know which is better - a desktop or a laptop. If the laptop I don't have any preference to its weight since I am mostly going to use it in the office. All my applications are Windows based, but from this thread I understood it shouldn't be a problem to switch to Mac if that is the only option I have. I am not extremely technical, also I've changed hard drives, a fan and RAM a few times. My preference is the fully assembled unit with the OS installed. What would this nice community recommend for me? Thank you!
If you are never going to take the laptop out of the office, why spend the money for portability, battery, etc.
Do you have a monitor you can re-use? If so, no need to buy a new one.
I'll tell you what I just did. I got rid of a 4-year old PC (pretty beefy at the time) in it's big case, etc. and replaced it with a MacMini. I got the fully tricked out Mac with 2.6(7) GHz CPU and the 1 TB Fusion drive. I didn't buy the Apple memory because it's expensive and installing your own is dead simple (sounds like you've done that). This machine is really snappy. Raw CPU power for LR rending is probably 50% higher than I had before, but the fusion (combo SSD/regular hard drive) makes so many things so quick.
I've shot Canon G Series cameras for several years now. (G10, G12, and now G15.)
Recently I bought what I thought would be a Canon OEM housing for the G15 but it's a knock-off Meikon which has the interesting feature of a 67mm thread on the front. So now I'm thinking about wet lenses. :-)
How does one use, in practice, a lens like the SubSea +5 or +10 with this camera? The reason I ask is that I find that what limits my macro ability is the working distance. I use the C1/C2 settings now to set me up for my "practical maximum magnification" which means setting the zoom lens at a minimum focus distance of about 10-15cm. When using these diopter lenses, do people set the zoom at the long end and then flip in the lens giving both more magnification and more working distance?
suggestions on what kind of diopter setting is appropriate for these cameras. And also what's worthwhile as wide angle wet lenses? (I know the Inon somethingZ80 is a possibliity).