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Lwang

Member Since 20 Sep 2012
Offline Last Active Jan 16 2016 12:02 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Camera tether suggestions??

10 January 2016 - 07:13 AM

I use a spiral line tether like this. However, since I personally don't like tiny carabiners (they're a PITA to operate with thick three-fingers or drygloves), I've bought a large bolt snap (the same type that's used for rigging stage bottles) and switched the carabiner with it. I had to borrow my wife's sewing machine to fix it properly, though.The bolt snap goes onto my left hip D-ring, the other end of the tether goes on the bottom of my (Nauticam) tray. I've also tied another, standard sized, bolt snap to the top of my rig, and on shore entries it's clipped to my left shoulder D-ring. The whole rig hangs pretty much like a stage bottle.

 

That works  for me.

 

They sell the ones with the brass bolt snaps, which is what I use on my compact setup (except mine has a clip instead of magnetic clasp).  I put the split ring over the ball onto its neck before putting the ball clamp on, thus it comes on and off relatively easily.


In Topic: Anyone have experience with Meikon Aluminum housing?

27 December 2015 - 07:47 PM

I too am on a dive trip now, and setup my lenses with the inon LD mount adapters, and always tethered with a fishing line. Even then it doesn't let water in, so I just have to mount it underwater, which is less of an issue with the bayonet mount.

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Everything has been working fine this far, and there are 2 more meikon/nb branded users on this trip with no issues this far(keeping fingers crossed). Just find it strange that the similiar range G16 housings have double o-ring and no leak sensor.

With regards to manual settings, the aperture should be in the front ring in M mode. To change shutter speed, you have to go into S mode and use the front ring to adjust, before changing back to M mode. A hassle it is for sure, but I generally keep shutter speed at 1/125 to freeze motion.

 

 I thought you bought the Meikon dome correcting lens?  But what I see on the lens caddy is a Dome lens Unit II.  Did you not try the Meikon dome?


In Topic: 2 Fisheye 1000DX video lights for sale

20 December 2015 - 06:15 PM

PM'd


In Topic: Anyone have experience with Meikon Aluminum housing?

16 December 2015 - 11:27 PM

I too am on a dive trip now, and setup my lenses with the inon LD mount adapters, and always tethered with a fishing line. Even then it doesn't let water in, so I just have to mount it underwater, which is less of an issue with the bayonet mount.

Everything has been working fine this far, and there are 2 more meikon/nb branded users on this trip with no issues this far(keeping fingers crossed). Just find it strange that the similiar range G16 housings have double o-ring and no leak sensor.

With regards to manual settings, the aperture should be in the front ring in M mode. To change shutter speed, you have to go into S mode and use the front ring to adjust, before changing back to M mode. A hassle it is for sure, but I generally keep shutter speed at 1/125 to freeze motion.

I had a stainless steel fishing line leader attached to a zip tie that was wrapped around the lens as tether. I was always afraid it would drop while the cable was somehow wrapped around the fiber optic cable and slice it through if I drop the lens.  Then I made some floats that wraps all around the lens, thus making underwater re-attachment pretty much impossible given the float blocks all view of the mating area of the thread.  For the new RX100 setup, I didn't use the float because the reattachment of the lens requirement underwater, but left the tether off.

 

I meant I wanted to change the shutter speed since in re-taking a picture, I did not want to change the f-stop, which will cause the strobe to have to throw more light, possibily causing underexposure or the foreground subject becoming more bluish if the strobes maxed out in its light output capability.  If I increase the shutter speed, only the background gets darker.

 

Jumping to S mode to change shutter speed would likely not work since I shoot mostly in MR mode, and MR 1 is pre-configured for shooting wide w/strobe under M.  If I jump to S and then to M, it would not have any of my settings in MR 1 (iso, metering mode, etc).  MR 2 is shooting w/o strobe w/manual WB, higher ISO, Shutter priority, etc, and MR 3 macro w/strobe.

 

 

So I either have to commit into memory how to change the front ring's mode from STD to Aperture so I don't forget about it when not touching that feature for many months, or get rid of MR 3's macro mode (a useless mode anyway, probably will just carry another P&S and use it to shoot macro with its built in flash..and put it on a pole so I can stick it into holes and get video that the big rig cannot get into) and have it similar to MR 1, but it will be in S instead of M, so as to let the camera's metering adjust settings so it exposes surface/sunball on par with forground exposure.


In Topic: How does TTL work with just a fibre-optic cable?

16 December 2015 - 09:30 PM

With some strobes that has +/-EV settings in TTL,  you can theoretically decrease the camera's internal flash power and still get a proper exposure.  If you set your camera's TTL flash power to -3EV and your strobe to +3EV, the camera will send a pulse of flash 1/8 the duration of a proper exposure when taking the picture, but the external strobe will make that pulse 8X longer, thus properly exposing the subject again.