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Member Since 08 Oct 2012
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#357069 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by kc_moses on 27 January 2015 - 12:46 PM

Thanks Adam, will look into Reefnet diopter.


Shoot for cropping is an option for 4K to 1080p down scaling as there is no pixel quality lost. I agree that it's best to plan to shot the way you want to use it. When I tried out the GH4, with uncontrollable movement because of macro and not having a tripod, it's nice that a light bulb comes on and I switch my brain to shoot 4K with possibility of 1080p, so I reframe my subject not too close to the edge to give me room to stabilize and crop during post.


Those who're curious about LX100 or some other camera, this review sums up all (I think!) the features that the camera has, it's quite exhausting to follow because the camera just have that many features!:




#356596 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by kc_moses on 14 January 2015 - 06:47 PM

Hi Chris,


I haven't receive info about when the flip diopter will arrive, so I don't know when I will get it wet. My next trip would be to Anilao, so I still have some stuffs I need to consider to get great Macro video. I think I might get the $220 Flexitray with handle since reusing my ULCS handle and tray for a tripod set up is hard.



#356581 Panasonic LX-100 Nauticam housing

Posted by kc_moses on 14 January 2015 - 10:41 AM

8.) The port release. There is nothing to prevent it from being press accidentally, so it's something to watch out for. But the port is very tight.



9.) The housing has holes on both side to use the bracket with Nauticam Flexitray (https://www.opticalo...xitray-set.html)






Note 1: You have to turn the housing to F16 in order for the camera to get in, don't force it!

Note 2: The ON/OFF level need to be risen before putting the camera in, just like GH4.



11.) Door of the housing



12.) Bottom of housing - standard Nauticam double 1/4-20 holes.



13.) Housing shipped with bracket to use with Nautical Flexitray and handle.



14.) The whole housing fit into a gallon size ziplock bag, nice! This is how I store my housing when not in use, to prevent dust. Just put a silica pack in the ziplock back, close the housing (not lock) and store away.



I'm still waiting for the 67mm flip diopter holder to arrive before I get it wet to test it out. I'm pretty sure I will get the short flat port, the short flat port allows you to attach WA wet lens. When not using a wet lens, the short flat port should let you take picture of portrait size subject, and since the camera can focus up to 3cm (!!), you can get really close for smaller subject, so not being able to use the zoom level is fine for me.


The Dome port is said to restore the air field of view of the camera, which at the widest (24mm) would be about 84 degree. 84 degree is not wide enough for most big subjects, even though it lets you zoom, not being able to use a diopter makes it less attractive to me.


Hope this info help!



#356422 Milne Bay - Papua New Guinea

Posted by kc_moses on 09 January 2015 - 08:06 AM

Did I just see Nudibranch poop at the end? :lol2: Heading to Anilao in a couple months, really hoping to get some stable shoot like yours. Always enjoy your work Dustin!

#355988 Wide angle with GH4 and 14-42mm PZ lens

Posted by kc_moses on 29 December 2014 - 01:55 PM

Alright, it's not conventional to go this route, but I'm trying to save money so I'm letting the cat out of the bag. A few people here know that I have been using my Opteka WA lens when I have my Panasonic LX-7 set up. The LX-7 have wide angle wet lens challenge, only Inon UWL-H100 works on it, but I'm not willing to spend $500 for a wet lens. With a bit research, I came across the Opteka lens which is for land use, and they happen to have a 67mm version:




For about $150, it's worth a try when I had the LX7. It works on the LX7, so I'm sure it will work with the GH4. But with 4K, would I see the imperfection of the Opteka lens? You be the judge. Here are the Opteka Lens pictures


- Very flat:



- Lens is made out of glass, so a bit heavy but will minimize the reflection of the lens barrel when pointing toward the sky.




- back of the lens is concave, no space between the front and back of the lens, so it won't flood in water.




- thread size 67mm, will work with lens that have big opening.




- field of view of 14mm of the 12-42mm PZ lens inside the Nauticam housing. (Took this at night at my hotel room)




- field of view at 14mm of the 14-42mm PZ lens after attached the Opteka lens. No vignette, fisheye effect will disappear once in water due to water distortion. May be a bit chromatic aberration, but then, it seems to disappear once in water, or is hard to spot due to video, not still.




Here is the result, watch in Youtube and turn on 4K:


The visibility got worse during second dive, and it was about 5pm Winter in Florida. Since the lens is not fast, the GH4 bump up the ISO (shot at shutter priority of 1/60). There are places where you can see noise. I didn't use manual focus at all since it's a WA dive. I used AFC with 49-point focus area. You can see the camera hunt for focus, during the lion fish and the box fish at the end, it's a drawback of the DFD technolgoy Panasonic use. But if the subject doesn't move much, it shouldn't be an issue. The lobster is big, I got really close that its "antenna" can touch my lens, and it show that the Opteka lens is sharp enough. For $150, it's a steal!


So in conclusion, the 14-42mm PZ truly function like a point and shoot lens, give you decent macro and with Opteka lens (don't know about the Inon UWL-H100), you can shoot macro and WA in the same dive. My only complain is the lens is not bright/fast. Hope the info help!

#355932 GH4 with 14-42mm PZ macro sample and thought.

Posted by kc_moses on 28 December 2014 - 08:34 AM

Alright, so here is the background info. I rented the NA-GH4 for a couple days early this month to try out the GH4 + 14-42mm lens.


The take away is, this lens has potential, I was using this set up like a point and shoot hence the result is hit and miss. I one handed holding the camera a lot, hence a lot of shaky footage (especially the eel). I was playing with Focus Tracking, which didn't work as well hence you see a lot of stuffs going in and out of focus. At some point I gave up Focus tracking and simply use manual focus with focus peaking and it works okay as long as the creature doesn't move too much and if the diopter's depth of field is not too shallow.


For the very close up (like the ubiquitous arrow crab), I stacked the +5 on top of the +7 and zoomed out, so the depth of field get very narrow and making focus difficult especially in manual focus + focus peaking. May be a different diopter like SMC will work better for that kind of close up.


With practice, you should get good result. I hope this help many armature like me out there!  :mocking:



Oh, I post processed to stabilize a lot of the clips, hence I output it to 2.7K. But the clip at 1:25 is without post process of stabilizing, just minor color grading. You can use 1:25 part to judge the quality with the +5 diopter. Also, throughout the dive, I can focus within 12". The fire worm crawling toward me was quite close, like 6-8", I had to move backward so that I don't get stink. but by moving backward, the focus go in and out again because I was using manual focus.

#354283 GH4 with 14-42mm lens or LX100?

Posted by kc_moses on 12 November 2014 - 10:48 AM

I'm not too worry about the wide angle on the housing since I had a decent solution for the LX-7.


I was ready to commit to the GH4 housing, which I have no problem to spend $2200 for, but truth be told, I don't get why a lens gear would cost US$200. There is no electrical machanism involve but just accurate CAD drawing with precision cutting, and any 3D printer and print a gear for less than $20. I just can't bring myself to spending thousand of dollar for gear down the road for either the 12-35mm lens, 7-14mm or the 8mm, which if I get on interchangable lens system, it would be very hard to avoid.


If they implement a vacuum pump check on the LX-100 housing, it would be sweet.

#353666 Lens choices for a MFT system

Posted by kc_moses on 24 October 2014 - 07:10 AM

Chris, you might want to consider the Panasonic Lumic G X Vario 14-42mm instead of the Olympus 12-50mm. The Panasonic has Power O.I.S, which is important for video. The Olympus won't have any sort of Image Stabilization on the GH4. Go over to the video section of the forum and Peter from Australia is some info and video showing the use of the 14-42mm. You can use diopter on it (+10 is recommended). For wide angle, you can find a wet lens that work for it.


I just get my GH4 and the 14-42mm lens today, but I haven't get the housing yet. I plan on using my Opteka .45x 67mm lens on it for wide angle.



#353259 Bait Balls and Packs of Goliath Groupers

Posted by kc_moses on 07 October 2014 - 12:29 PM

When are you going to do this full time Lee?  :dancing:

#350733 Upcoming Panasonic GH-4K

Posted by kc_moses on 23 July 2014 - 05:15 PM

I too like that deep blue color. Did you shoot with CineV color setting?

#350083 GH4 footage and rig pic

Posted by kc_moses on 09 July 2014 - 01:19 PM

Chris, a big chunk of that press release site is hyperlink to the demo reel.


Nice work on the demo reel!

#349961 Traveling with underwater camera to international destination - packing tips...

Posted by kc_moses on 07 July 2014 - 11:05 AM

Ditch the porter hard case, for many reasons. It's heavy, expensive, and it just scream "steal me!!!!". You can get similar protection without all the thick padding. From my experience (mostly Singapore Airline), they weight the obviously big carry on bag, so try not to make your carry on bag look very stuffed like it's going to burst and explode. In this case, something like a duffle bag would do, the duffle bag with rolling wheel could be hard to find though.


Long story short, this is what work for me:

Most of the time, they don't weight your laptop bag, so keep all the heavy stuffs like regulator (I have a $1500 regulator that I wouldn't feel comfortable check in), batteries, camera, tablet/laptop in your laptop bag. If there is more room in your laptop bag, stuff it with all the arms, clamp etc that can go into small nook and corner in your laptop bag and they can take all the abuse. The laptop bag will be carried on your shoulder weight is not an issue, you just can't run with it.


As for the overhead bag, get one of these to go into the duffle bag (remove the caddy tray of the toolbox):



The toolbox is use to keep your housing (make sure to not latch the housing), strobe, light and other delicate stuffs. I put my housing into a zip lock bag so there won't be any dirt to get on the o-ring. wrap everything with a microfiber napkin size tower to act as buffer so they don't scratch each other. The microfiber tower come in handy when you need to dry your gear when you're at the resort. The toolbox can act as double duty to bring onto the boat to keep your wallet, keys, sunglasses, defogger etc.


Anyway, stick the toolbox into the duffle bag along with some loose items like laptop charger, snack, magazine etc. In the case where the plane is too small and you have to gate check, the toolbox will protect your equipment, as long as they don't drop from a 5 ft height or have anything more than 50lb of stuff lay on top of it, the toolbox is adequate.


Some people use the photography's vest, which I haven't had the need to go that route. Gate check is not the end of the world. One time I got weight by Singapore Airline, they gate check my carry on so I just bring the laptop bag with me to my seats. After 13 hours of flight, we transit in Moscow, and I didn't have to carry my 40lb+ carry on to go through all the security scanning in Moscow, just me and my laptop bag. 

#349164 Monitor Use

Posted by kc_moses on 17 June 2014 - 06:33 AM

Due to the angle and terrain of coral in underwater environment, an external monitor is more useful as the diver can tilt the monitor to the angle they need to shoot video.


While on the top side, that challenge mostly can be overcome without monitor especially many dslr has swivel screen. Trying to attach a monitor on a camera body will also require a cage/shoulder rig because the set up get heavy, and the hot shoes/cold shoes are not strong enough to hold heavy gear. The underwater housing essentially become a cage with multiple ball joints and weigh become more manageable once it's in the water with variety of float. Just my thought.

#347743 3D printing gear for Olympus 12-50mm lens, need input

Posted by kc_moses on 15 May 2014 - 05:12 PM

Hi all, I searched around to look for supply/seller of gear that goes on the Olympus 12-50mm lens that fit into the Nauticam Macro Port 65 (the port that's use for 60mm macro lens)


The sellers I found are outside of US, price range from $60 pound to $150. During my search, I also found this:




I manage to find a local company that can print the gear for me for $15. They actually charge by the hour so 3 files would take about 3 hours to print. However, the resolution will be 0.5mm. I'm wondering if anyone have gone this route. I requested to get a new quote for 0.1mm. If you have gone this route, which print resolution you used and if you have ran into any issue?





#346377 PNG Baggage restrictions

Posted by kc_moses on 17 April 2014 - 07:16 AM

Ok, can someone explain how to use "photographer vest" to sneak in more weight? Like what do you put in it? I asked because when come to international flight, you're talking about 10 hour+ of journey, and me being 230lb certain feel okay in a T-shirt in tight plane seat. I can imagine the vest would cause some discomfort, but how bad, and what to expect?