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Member Since 05 Dec 2012
Offline Last Active Jul 05 2015 08:35 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: How do I avoid my wife murdering me when I come home with two more YS-250Pro...

24 June 2015 - 11:43 PM

after 30 yrs we have an understanding (yes dear...)


It's always nice when they learn to take the philosophical outlook and just sigh and shake their head. Mine is - fortunately - there, at least as long as I don't abuse the privilege too much. Over the years I've become quite adept at spotting the tiny signals indicating that I'm getting perilously close to the edge...

In Topic: Strobe positioning with fisheye - tips needed!

24 June 2015 - 11:32 PM

Next move, I'd suggest, would be to get much closer in pic 1 (crab) and especially in pic 2 (urchin). This echoes Interceptor121's comment. One of the beauties of the FE is just how close you can get - concentrating on the main subject but showing it against it's habitat. Pic 2 is ideal for this. If (If!) you could have got lower than the urchin (pic2), really close and shot upwards it might work even better. Of course, you'd need to get your model to attend the TimG PADI Underwater Modelling (Elegant Leg Positioning) Specialty.


Same with the crab (pic 1), if you could get below the body of the crab and shoot upwards so that you can see water between the rock and the crabs leg. It could be quite dramatic.


Ahhh, counsels of perfection. Doncha love 'em.


All good points. In retrospect (ah, the allure of armchair quarterbacking. If I could shoot as well as I spot errors in existing pics, I might make a career out of UW photography!), I totally agree with most of them, except the crab-photog distance. Do you give a TimG PADI Underwater Modelling (Crustaceans Edition) Specialty? 'Cause he and I didn't agree on how close I should get.


The urchin, absolutely. I tried to get lower, but managed to silt up the scene when I went all the way down on the bottom. Besides, my model/buddy (I know that he's both my model and my diving buddy, he thinks that he's only my buddy...) had grown a bit impatient and was heading away to look for another fish to spear¹, so I didn't have time to let the silt settle. If I had, the model would've been long gone. But I gave him grief for the leg positioning, we both wondered what kind of frog kick THAT was  :D



Anyhow, there's going to be a lot of experimenting and shooting in the near future, because that FE is about as easy to master as I expected. Particularly for someone who used to prefer the tele perspective topside.



¹ To be a little serious for a second, I think the shooting/buddy obligations balance is one of the more challenging aspects of UW photography, and probably undercommunicated to n00bs. Solo diving isn't for me, so there's always a tradeoff between spending enough time to get a good shot, and avoiding to pi$$ off your buddy so you don't have a buddy on the next dive.

In Topic: Strobe positioning with fisheye - tips needed!

23 June 2015 - 11:45 AM

Another outing with the 8mm/3.5, a two-tank dive this weekend. It's getting better, but CFWA when the subject is low on a flat bottom is still challenging. I have to get the strobes even higher above the port, and make sure they're pulled far enough behind. I was pretty bothered with a leaking mask, though, so I had somewhat limited bandwidth to allocate to the shooting...








The background is getting lighter than it did with the 9-18 for some weird reason. I've been shooting aperture priority and underexposing the ambient by 1 step and was pretty happy with that earlier. Given that the outward-angled strobes don't deliver full power to the center of the frame, I'm considering to change that setting to perhaps 2 steps underexposure of the ambient light. I'll probably try that out, we'll see how it goes.

In Topic: What port/extension ring is needed to accommodate 300MM lens

22 June 2015 - 10:13 AM

I  have to ask, why do you want to house a 90-300?


I'd be more interested in learning who the heck is making a 90-300 f/2.8. It's a pretty unusual focal length (to put it mildly), and I'll be darned if I can find out who's making one of those.



As to why, I guess it's the old "it's what was available at the time" reason. A well-known and well-proven principle in experimental science.

In Topic: Strobe positioning with fisheye - tips needed!

14 June 2015 - 12:52 AM

Lots of good info here.

I don't bother with shooting manual, Inon TTL works pretty well with my E-M5. My standard settings are aperture priority, auto ISO, ambient underexposed by one step and flash at zero compensation.

I did a quick test in my living room this morning. Although it helps quite a lot to push the strobes behind the port, closer together and angled outwards, with the type of subject I shot yesterday (close main subject on a flat bottom - or like today, the floor), it's tricky to avoid bright spots in the bottom corners of the frame. When the main subject is higher above the base, it isn't too difficult to avoid the bright spots. I'll try to experiment with positioning the strobes a little above the housing instead of having them at the same level as the port or slighly below, as I've been doing so far.

I think I'm quite happy that I didn't get a fisheye when I started shooting UW. Trying to get shots I was fairly happy with while learning to use UW techniques was challenging enough with a rectilinear WA like my 9-18. It did't exactly help that for topside shooting I've generally had better results with the tele perspective than with the WA perspective, so just developing my WA technique has been challenging enough. Now I think I'm ready to take the next step into the fisheye world :)

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