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Member Since 31 Jan 2005
Offline Last Active May 13 2015 10:18 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: BMPCC Underwater Test

15 April 2014 - 05:22 AM


Please post some Norwegian footage when you can Espen!

Will do, but it might take a while. I'm busy diving these days but will try to edit and grade something in a few weeks.

In Topic: BMPCC Underwater Test

11 April 2014 - 03:07 PM

Thanks for the reviews Simon! Very informative. 


I have "Jerry-rigged" an old Nikon F100 Nexus housing to fit my pocket camera with full focus and aperture control. I use a Nikon adapter and a Sigma 8-16mm lens behind a 170 port.


I have been really happy with the dynamic range of this setup and have graded the raw files in Resolve. I did post a few frame grabs a while back in another thread.


Last week I shot in very green and dark water at around 15m depth. I had to push the Raw files up two stops in post (Iso 3200). A little chroma noise reduction in post and voila! - useable sharp footage! I even managed to balance out the WB (No filter).


Basically went out and bought a BMCC MFT and a Nauticam housing today. My only gripe with Nauticams housing is the lack of a extra aperture wheel on the right housing side to control the aperture ring on a speed booster or G-compatible Nikon adapter. I'll be making and installing one myself. Another stop of light and a wider field of view will be awesome!  


E. ;-)

In Topic: BMPCC underwater filming setting

07 March 2014 - 07:37 AM

Strangely enough, I have experienced flickering issues with powerful LED lights underwater, which could be corrected with an adjustment to shutterspeed. I experienced them at 1/50th sec with mangrove lights. It's not really a problem so long as you notice it underwater and correct it!


Thanks for the info! I have never had this happen to me. 

In Topic: BMPCC underwater filming setting

07 March 2014 - 12:37 AM

Hi Edmond, 


Its most beneficial to use a shutter angle around 180 degrees for best looking motion blur. If you shoot in a 50Hz environment then its good to use 172 because that will reduce flicker around artificial light. This has no consequence underwater where you would use a dc light source. 


Regarding kelvin I'd use a warm rather than cold setting so that you have some information in the red channel to work with when shooting without lights in prores (I recommend RAW for best results). That said I'd recommend you use a K that corresponds to your lights when using them and shoot raw when you are shooting without lights.  


I shoot raw for WA and prores for macro with lights. I use a daylight setting for my kelvin when shooting prores. 


Regarding the cards. There is still just one out there that supports RAW recording so the choice is kind of limited INMO.


Happy shooting,


In Topic: Blackmagic Pocket Cinema Camera: Yes there will be housings!

06 March 2014 - 03:28 PM



I have PM you.