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vbpress

Member Since 21 Feb 2013
Offline Last Active Jan 16 2018 11:15 PM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Canon 24mm F1.4 II behind Ikelite 8" dome

14 January 2018 - 10:27 AM

One month without response, I'm sorry.

I've experience with similar equipment: Sigma 24/1.4 ART in Sea&Sea Housing behind the 240 S&S Dome port (quite different by your 8" dome) mounting the correction lens Sea&Sea CL 77. This is the reason which my experience is less interesting for you (I suppose). I've used 40mm extension ring on my MDX-D800 housing, which is the true important gear to achieve the best possible sharpness corner.

 

In any case my results was very good, but the 24mm DOF is less extended than a very wide lenses, so there are a lot of limitations like in the picture below where despite of f/13 the right side foreground is out of focus.

 

28_SAR_0728.jpg

 

For this reason I prefer 18-17 wide on full frame camera 'cause thy offer wider DOF very useful in this kind of picture.

 

28_SAR_1749.jpga 18mm shot  :bye:


In Topic: Best wide angle lens for Nikon D850 in Nauticam housing

11 January 2018 - 04:20 PM

Hi Adam
Thank you for your precious off-topic, but I still puntualize that the wide angle lenses have a "natural" applications in all focus views, in other words closing the aperture. This is more true behind a dome in uw photography where we have the problem of the corner blur due to the dome out of focus aberrations; we have only two way to reduce the problem 1) increase the dome radius 2) closing the aperture to maximise the deep of field. Well, in my experience f/11 f/16 are abitual aperture in uw wide angle photo shooting.
I remember your experience with Tokina 17/3.5 (surpising experience!) also the Nikon 20/1.8 test. Last year I had problems of out of focus shootig toads just behind the 240 dome using Nikon AF-s 18-35/3.5-4.5 because the amphibians were too much close to the dome for mfd of the lens. This is the reason of my interest for Nikon AF-s 20/1.8 but you have reduced all my enthusiasm :(
In any case, staying on topic, I believe that the current best wide angle/dome combo for 36mp camera is also the current best combo for 45mp camera. :)

In Topic: Best wide angle lens for Nikon D850 in Nauticam housing

10 January 2018 - 11:34 PM

 
BTW the 17-35mm's corners are not great on lamd
 
Adam

Are you sure? Not in my experience. I use 17-35 massively in land, which is a lens that need to be closed by f/8 f/11, anyway I've made a lot of wide aperure shots and the pictures are good, very good. I tried the 16-35 without recognise particular sharpness improvement, inspite of that the AF performane is better and the VR function can help in partiular occasions, but is a less fast lens (f/4) and a little bit bigger. Of course, Nikon users like me are waiting for a modern version of the old 17-35/2.8, but Nikon at that time appears interested to others strange things (180-400/4 Tc a Rolls Roice tele zoom, good luck Nikon)

In water using D800/D800E behind Sea&Sea 240 achrylic dome port, I've reached good very good sharpness from corner to center with the cheaper 18-35 Afs closed to f/11 - f/13 adding the correction lens sea&sea CL77 and a couple of extension ring 20+40. But still there is a great lack in the minimun focus distance: 27cm are still too much.
I plan to purchase a nikon 20/1.8 afs and, probably, the newest Sea&Sea 230 glass dome; finally, I hope, I'll have the anphibic rectilinear wide angle camera that I'm looking for.

In Topic: Strange Shutter Delay on DSLR???

01 April 2017 - 05:27 AM

Good Gary!
Digital camera are very complex, sometime too much complex.
Have you tested the new s&s m77 correction lens on your 16-35 behind the 240 dome?
I use this lens on 18-35/3.5-4.5 Afs G and it's a very good tool. The corner sharpness improvement is consistent.

Bye

In Topic: Strange Shutter Delay on DSLR???

26 March 2017 - 11:03 PM

I 've the same camera (2 different cameras) and the same housing system but I've never registered any delay in the shutter.
I shoot in af c and manual exp (and of course no auto iso), like you I use the red focus poit illumination. My choose for strobe connections are old nikonos wired cables, I'm very surprised by your problem. The Mdx-D800 is a well made housing, the push buttons have a long escursion and the dial control don't push on camera, comparing to the fitting of D300 in MDX d300 that is quite difficult due to a little tollerance in the camera body position.

Seriusly I don't understand what kind of diabolic mismatch cause your problem.