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TomekP

Member Since 13 Jan 2014
Offline Last Active Nov 19 2017 10:07 AM
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#388795 Sony Nex5n in Acquapazza

Posted by TomekP on 28 October 2017 - 01:47 AM

I am considering to change my camera for FF so if there will be someone who want to buy complete system I have one for sale. 

 

Price is 3500 Euro 

 

I am located in Poland. If You are interested please sent me an e-mail tomek.plotek@gmail,com

 

My pictures taken with this setup You can check there

https://www.facebook.com/tomek.plotek

https://500px.com/tomekfotek

 

2x Sony Nex 5n body with strobe 

3 batteries 
2 chargers
Sony 16mm f2,8
Sony 20mm f2,8
Sony Fish EYE converter VCL-ECF1 
Sony Wide Angle converter VCL-ECU1 
Converters fits on both 16 and 20mm lenses, so there is 4 possibilities to play with focal lenght.
Sony 16-50 mm
Sony 50mm f1,8
Minolta macro 100mm f2,8 + Sony LE-EA1

Acquapazza housing, sealed with two o-rings, with visible usage signs means some small scratches. This housings is really nice for handling and very compact, nice for traveling. 
Dome port for 16 and 20 mm with or without converters, this is optical glass port made by Inon
Flat port for 16-50mm
Flat port for 30mm or 50mm (in this one I cutted the internal shade)
Flat port for 100mm
Focus gear for 16
Zoom gear for 16-10
Customized focus gear for 100mm
M46 adapter
Inon 330 close up lens to get super macro with 100mm lens
Screen magnifier nice for macro shoots.

 

The INON strobe is not for sale. There is just picture which shows the port for 100mm f2,8

 

22815441_1900445846650846_22115476386490

 

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#359562 uwl-h100 dome fog

Posted by TomekP on 02 April 2015 - 11:21 PM

I've had the problem with the dome on the uwl-h100 fogging up when getting in the water before, usually just waiting a bit with the lens in the water would sort it out as the glass cooled.

Today I had the problem that the inner wet lens was fogging up, which took much longer to cool down as it is not exposed directly to water.

Any idea how I can prevent this from happening? I'm assembling the lens in a well air conditioned room...

I had similar problem. I got the fog on the internal surface of the dome or front lens under the dome glass. I was trying different techniques including mounting the dome in a special environmental chamber :) 

At the end I did this in the car, so first I setup max heating with internal flow of air .... after some time, when temperature became uncomfortable I switched air-condition to max cooling .... when it became cold then the air should be dry, so I attached the dome on the lens.

After that there was no more fog inside the dome even when I did diving in cold water.  




#359221 A6000 doesn't let you set shutter speed higher than 1/160 > When b.i...

Posted by TomekP on 26 March 2015 - 02:14 AM

 

BTW I discovered that if you add hot shoe adaptor >> you might trick the camera to let you use any shutter speed you want
 

For macro there is no sense to use higher speed. 

 

This is perfect explanation given by Aquapaul

"The way I see it is that if you are using a strobe to light the scene the shutter speed is nearly irrelevant, think shutter speed to control ambient light and aperture to control the amount of light from the strobe. If you want to shoot f/27 you are going to need a lot of light and it wouldn't matter what the shutter speed was, 1/60 would give the same result as 1/4000 because the flash duration is short, shorter the 1/4000."

 

 

I have adaptor for flash and If I will apply time faster than 1/200 then I  will  see the edges of the shutter on the image, so there is really no sense.

RX100 has smaller sensor so it can accept faster shutter speed.

 

 

The way I see it is that if you are using a strobe to light the scene the shutter speed is nearly irrelevant, think shutter speed to control ambient light and aperture to control the amount of light from the strobe. If you want to shoot f/27 you are going to need a lot of light and it wouldn't matter what the shutter speed was, 1/60 would give the same result as 1/4000 because the flash duration is short, shorter the 1/4000.

This issue is more important when You want to take picture against the sun.

With Oly XZ-1 or RX100 I was able to setup  quite small aperture like f8, low ISO and fast shutter speed 1/1000.  Then 2xS2000 strobes are enough to get proper exposure.

With camera like Sony nex5n, You can set 1/160, this is tooooo long for sunburst, so You need to close the aperture to f22 and then You need stronger strobes like Z240. 




#357946 Wearing a drysuit and shooting macro

Posted by TomekP on 17 February 2015 - 08:32 AM

I am using drysuit since a few years for all dives when I am doing photography. In both cases: warm water like RedSea or diving in cold water under the Ice, the buoyancy in dry suit can be controlled very well. But everyone need time to practice, and I would say that it is difficult to learning the photography and diving in dry suit at the same time. I figure out that diving in dry suit and side mount is a bit easier to get shots against surface because of a better flexibility of the body. 

During taking a photo sometimes  my legs goes up, and I stay with my head down. For this You have to control the buoyancy with BCD not with DrySuit. 

Underwater Photographer behavior is quite close to technical diver, so any kind of training like GUE or any other  I would recommend  to became master of buoyancy and trim to get nice pictures :)




#341913 Do you ever zoom out?

Posted by TomekP on 15 January 2014 - 08:39 AM

I think answer can be simple - yes, always for WAL and never for macro :)