Jump to content


Member Since 28 Oct 2002
Offline Last Active Mar 28 2010 06:41 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Gear for super macro

15 December 2007 - 06:52 PM

52 mm close up lenses available @ B & H :

http://www.bhphotovi...on=Submit Query[quote name='Lionfish43' date='Dec 14 2007, 04:49 PM' post='150806']

J Malo

[quote name='Lionfish43' date='Dec 14 2007, 04:49 PM' post='150806']
I've never been a real big macro enthusiast but I'm going to Bonaire next month and I'd like to get my feet wet with super macro. I've read some of the previous threads but it seems that some of the info is out of date as far as the equipment that's currently available.

I intend to use my Nkon 105mm (old style non-VR) with a teleconverter and a diopter...I think. The problem is that the Nikon T Diopters no longer seem to be available. I've been searching various websites and it seems that there is a Canon 250D close-up lens that's a +4 diopter available in 52mm. Has anyone used this diopter in combination with a 2X teleconverter.

I'm assuming the Kenko 2x Pro 300 is the way to go for the teleconverter.

I'd like to hear from othes who have been down this road recently or have an opinion.

In Topic: Inon Z240 battery life

30 November 2007 - 04:11 PM

I have used dual Z240's on three trips. I typically shot 250 - 300 shots a day @ an average of 1/2 power manual or iTTL, over 4 dives and only replace my batteries ( NiMH 2300 ) @ the end of the day. I have never had long recycle time or run out of power. I dont know how much further I could push them.

J Malo

I have a pair of well used 240's.
I have done 2 dives on a set of 2500 MAh NiMH - although it is my usual habit to use a fresh set each dive.

In Topic: Seacam and Inon 240's

30 November 2007 - 03:56 PM

I have The D2X Seacam and dual Z240'S. My wife has the same setup but uses Seacam 90 Autos. The left bulkhead comes wired with 5 wires for iTTL from the factory while the right has 3 wires for Nikon manual protocol. When shooting manual, we pull the 1 and 4 pins, see: ( Wetpixel Nikon D2X Hotshoe syndrome and fix ) for the diagram. The 1 pin is lower right and the 4 pin is upper right. We use both bulkheads for manual and replace the pins for iTTL using the left bulkhead with the Sea and Sea iTTL converter ii. All seems to work well, but I have never tested with a light meter. Hope this helps. Check with Steven Frink if still a problem.
J. Malo

Hello all,
I have a Seacam D200 setup. I have 2 Inon 220's / 2 240's and Quad and finally Seacam 350 Megablasters.
I always check my strobes with my Gossen light meter and it appears that I cannot seem to get the proper protocol. I started with my 220's which I used with my F100 without a single problem. Thinking that the digital electronics in the D200 was my problem, I "upgraded to the 240's. Still the same problems.
All cables and strobes work as they should by themselves-individually.

Hook up left bulkhead with 240 works fine-when the right side bulkhead is hooked up it works fine but now the left side only will fire at minimum now matter whether on full or manual stops. Right side strobe functions whether on not the left side strobe is connected.
I have seen the Seacam Tech notes and tried these tests with 1/2/and 3 pins removed.
With the 2 leftside pins removed, with right side strobe turned on ,the left side fires at 1 stop greater than minimum no matter what the strobe power setting is at. If I turn the right side strobe off, left side goes back to minimum.
With center pin only. Right side strobe fires at minimum whether right side strobe is on or off. If I unplug the left side strobe the right strobe will not fire at all.
Just writing these results gives me a headache, let alone trying to figure out the proper protocol. Does anyone have these setups that has figured it out? I have not tried all of these combo's with the supplied Inon bulkhead filters but I tried 1 or two and they made no difference.
Without ttl and shooting in manual-when I want full on 1 strobe and half power on the other then that is what I should get. Thank you in advance,Wayne :)

In Topic: Sea&Sea i-TTL converter III Test

21 October 2007 - 12:52 PM

My wife and I each have a D2x (firm1.1) in a SeaCam housing, the Sea & Sea TTL II converters and 2 Inons Z-240 for me and twin Sea & Sea DX 90 Auto's for her. I reported a few months ago on a 3 week trip to Indonesia with both rigs. No corrosion problems and as good as can be expected TTL on both macro and wide angle ballanced lighting. TTL is as everyone knows, is no magic bullet. Unfortunatly it is often fooled by varied reflectivity and open space. This is further complicated by 2 strobes , controlled by one exposure meter. The twins are often differing distances from the subject and are under one control. One can't expect to much from automatic exposure control. Even with these limitations, I found the Macro was usually dead on from F 16 - 32, and I never go beyound these limits. Wide angle also as good as can be expected between f 4 anb f 8.
I would suggest considering not updating the firmware, if you havn't, if you plan on using the TTL II Converter.


Hi Marcelo,

Thanks for the feedback. I have to say that your experiences with the ttl converter sounds a little like the experience my friend has with his d200. I just can't explain that you get it to adjust for distance but not for aperture.
As long as my strobes are turned on first (set to TTL and Sttl), then the converter and finally the camera I get consistent results with varying aperture and distance. With two strobes, f2.8-f4 and very bright subject at very close range I find that the converter isn't able to react quickly enough. But since I mainly use F8 and up for my macro the converter works very well.
I find it very strange that you get correct exposure with varying distance but not varying aperture!? Can't explain that, except say that it isn't working as it should. A friend of mine will hopefully come by with his d2x and we'll have a go to see if it can be firmware related.
Am I remebering incorrect or did you also have a HW converter for your housing? How is that working?

Thanks for your comments!

Best regards,
Espen :)

In Topic: Sea and sea ttl converter and inon z-240 strobes

08 September 2007 - 05:41 PM

Hi there,
does anyone know if the Sea and sea ttl converter and inon z-240 strobes work together to give reliable ttl lighting?
i can't seem to find any info on this online and sea doesn't recommend it, surprise surprise, inon says it will work but I would like to see if anyone is actually doing this, straight from the horses mouth sort of thing,
many thanks in advance
plus would love to hear from anyone who has had any problems with sea and sea conveter, i have heard that there may be some melting issues, doesn't bode well.

I have dual Z240's, Sea and Sea II ttl converter, Seacam housing and Nikon D2X. It worked just great on over 30 dives. No corrosion, exellent ttl. Alot depends on your housing and camera combination, however. There have been several threads on this issue this year. Check the archives. Some housings without anode grounding have had corrosion problems.