I had the Ikelite with HC1 as my first setup for underwater video. I used the Inon type 2 wide angle lens. Most of my shots are not macro and I do see that the center of the is in focus but the edges are not. I used the large Ikelite red filter but it was not secure and lost the red plastic during a high current dive. The housing with the Inon is somewhat negatively bouyant and can be tiring to hold in current when you need to use one hand to swim against current. I had a backup double threaded red filter that was more secure. One has to unthread the lens in the ocean to get rid of the bubbles. Then when get to depth, do the manual white balance. This is cumbersome as you have to hold the housing sideways and find a white target while manipulating the joysticks. I wore a glove in my left hand only. That could be a problem in cold water environment. The white balance would need to be reset if you ascend to a different depth. Some of the pins were too long in my housing and would press on to the button at depth due to higher pressure outside. This prevented the use of the touch screen during the initial use and therefore no manual white balance. Luckily I was able to solve it.
Just some random thoughts. If I plan to dive frequently, I would get the A1 for easier manual white balance. I don't think my housing has that extra button for the A1 customized button but I don't know where it would be anyways since I don't have one. I have some awesome footage but will need to figure out who to transfer to the PC and how to convert before I can share.
agleungMember Since 12 Oct 2005
Offline Last Active Apr 09 2009 12:23 PM
- Group Member
- Active Posts 2
- Profile Views 362
- Member Title Sea Wasp
- Age Age Unknown
- Birthday Birthday Unknown
Camera Model & Brand
Sony HDR HC1