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Gudge

Member Since 16 Oct 2005
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 02:29 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: 2nd try: overexposure problem w TTL (Olympus E-M1)

25 August 2014 - 09:30 PM

it's two YS-01 strobes.

In that case:

 

Camera flash set to Fill

Set the strobe mode switch to [TTL]

Set the strobe light level control dial to [FULL]

 

Should do the trick.


In Topic: 2nd try: overexposure problem w TTL (Olympus E-M1)

25 August 2014 - 07:12 PM

What make/model strobes are you using?  If they are Inon this will help explain the correct settings:

 

http://reefphoto.com/kb.php?id=7

 

In short for your camera and Inon Z240 strobe(s):

 

Camera flash set to fill.

Left hand dial on strobe set to sTTL

Right hand dial on strobe set so it is putting up to B

ACC switch enabled (out)


In Topic: Apple's Aperture is being sunsetted

17 August 2014 - 08:32 PM

Rumour has it that Adobe is working on an Aperture to Lightroom migration tool:

 

http://petapixel.com...mpanying-guide/


In Topic: Suggestions for "Best Of" threads

07 August 2014 - 03:56 PM

You have to introduce yourself before you can start a topic in any of the forums (including Classifieds):

 

http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=52515


In Topic: Cooling Filters for Ikelite Strobes

13 July 2014 - 01:44 PM

I don't really see the point of adding a cooling filter for macro photography has it is very easy to adjust colour temperature in post processing but if you really want to do it use the Lee Mired Shift Calculator to figure out what colour filter you need.  It's what most people used to use to calculate the correct warming filter for Inon strobes before Inon put out their own warming diffusers.  It should do the same job in reverse to suit your needs:

 

http://www.leefilter...calculator.html

 

Reversing my calculation for a warming filter for my Inons (resulting in Lee 444 - 1/8 CT Straw) gives the nearest result as Lee 218 - 1/8 CT Blue