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Larry C

Member Since 10 Dec 2005
Offline Last Active Apr 03 2014 08:32 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: corrosion on Solo lights

29 March 2014 - 05:55 PM

Second the vinegar and swab.  Contact cleaner also works.  I spray it on a swab first.  After you clean it, wipe it with dielectric grease and reapply regularly.  It will charge fine through the dielectric grease and won't recorrode.  For some reason, only one terminal corrodes on mine.


In Topic: New lens: macro or fisheye?

09 March 2014 - 12:02 PM

Wide angle is more challenging, but the 10-17 focuses so close that with a small dome you can shoot WA macro.  Not really macro because even on top of the subject, it looks small (and I mean touching the dome), but a close-up of a small to medium subject with a wide background.  The challenge is strobe placement and lighting both the subject and the background.

In this shot, the squids were probably an inch from the port.

 

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In this crop, they may have been touching it.

DSC_5214croppsesm_zpsf1614c78.jpg[/URL]


In Topic: Sea & Sea MDX-D600 - problems

18 February 2014 - 03:18 PM

On the older housings (one dial) the manual specified to push and turn.  Since the D600 has a second dial, I doubt that will work.  When I was having this issue with my D300, it was suggested I put a piece of tape on the wheel that contacts the sub command dial. 

I did have the same problem as the previous post, in that if the camera is installed with the power off and the control lever in the on position, it won't seat correctly and leaves a gap even after switching it on and off.  The camera must be removed and reseated.  I also managed to bend the camera shoe sheet metal slightly by leaving it on my camera in the camera bag.  Bending it back to correct alignment (you can also loosen the bottom screw a  bit) helped my wheel alignment issue as well as my problem with the CSM focus mode selection.


In Topic: Removing scratches from a dome port

18 February 2014 - 02:05 PM

Hi All,

This is my first post here. Sorry its coming in the form of a question. Lots of good info and have been enjoying the forum. 

 

I have an 8" Aquatica dome port that has a few small scratches in the middle. Its fine underwater but noticeable on over unders. i bought the micromesh kit and my question is can i just polish out the small are that has the scratch or do I need to do the entire dome?

Thanks! 

If you only polish one spot, you'll end up with a flat spot which will show as distortion in your pictures.  Start with your bad spot and do an expanding circular pattern around it, staying even pressure on all sides.  Check frequently until the main scratch is gone, then go to the finer polish.


In Topic: Testing ttl strobe accuracy on a film camera?

30 January 2014 - 10:36 PM

I just got the scans online from my latest roll, all shot with two strobes in ttl.  Settings ranged from 1/60 f8 to 1/250 f22, and not a poorly lit shot in the bunch.  Most were perfectly lit.  Now that I've figured out the lighting and got my best shots, I got my D300 housing back from the shop and I can quit spending one dollar per picture and save the film camera for occasional kicks.  It's been a learning experience and a lot of fun.   I might have to sort out my N90S and Nexus housing and see how it does.  I also want to throw my 10-17 on the F100 with the mini dome and maybe a 1.4 tele and see how some wide angle comes out.  The dome was on the D300 housing, so I was stuck with the flat port or my fisheye dome.  I would have tried the fisheye dome, but even on the MDX-D300 which is amazingly negative, the thing holds so much air it becomes positive and tilts the rig upward.  The NX-100 pro is much lighter and pretty neutral, so I didn't feel like adding 2 lbs. of extra weight to my dive kit to keep it underwater with the big dome.