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Larry C

Member Since 10 Dec 2005
Offline Last Active Oct 27 2014 06:44 PM
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Topics I've Started

Why you should buy a Light & Motion light

06 August 2014 - 01:44 PM

My wife bought me a Sola 600 Photo for Xmas in December 2010. It worked great for 3 years, but recently had some issues. When the charge lights wouldn't come on, I went online and read the very helpful L & M instructions for getting the light out of travel mode. When that didn't work, I called and a very nice CSR walked me through opening the light and unplugging and replugging the battery to reset the light. That worked and everything was cool for another few months. Eventually the charge signal started flashing red sequentially at high speed and the light wouldn't go on. I called up, exhausted all the remedies and then was told that since it was well out of warranty, I could send it in and they'd fix it for about $85.
I got the light back, charged it and tested it. It worked great. Last week I took it diving and oops, it flooded. I called up L & M and Jon said, "no problem, send it in and we'll take care of it of course." I returned the light to L & M with a request to please hurry, as I'm competing in the Monterey Shoot-Out this weekend and then Monday we're leaving for 10 days of diving in Alaska. One day later, I got a call from Jon, who said "We don't make the repair part for your old 600 anymore, so we're giving you a new one. I stopped in there and he handed me a nice brand new Sola 800. No Charge.
In my 61 years on this planet, I have never had better customer service. Ever.


Testing ttl strobe accuracy on a film camera?

30 December 2013 - 03:30 PM

Is there anyway other than trial and error that I can test the ttl performance of a newer non film strobe on my F100?  The Sea & Sea NX100 pro housing puts out a five pin signal with the F100 that my YS-110 responds to, but I have no idea if the output is adjusting or if it just flashes the same every time.  I was thinking of trying a longer shutter opening with my D300 in a totally dark room and flashing the strobe at different settings with the film camera to see if there's a difference in lighting.  Am I way off base, or might this work?  Is there any other way without fancy light duration measuring instruments?  I shot my last two rolls of film on ttl, with the second having the camera set to +2 on the metering, so hopefully I'll know a little more when I get the slides and scans back.  Hoping there's a better way, as it's costing me two dives, a $10 roll of Velvia and $24 worth of processing per roll for the way I'm doing it now.