slowhands

On the Ike site, it says manual only, no TTL
"The Fiber Optic Adapter converts the electrical bulkhead of any Ikelite DS Substrobe into a fiber optic port. This adapter is a manual exposure (non-TTL) trigger only. The strobe's output must be adjusted using the manual power settings built into the strobe (varies by model)."
Bill

The new Ikelite Fiber Optic Adapter for their DS strobes is here:

http://ikelite.com/w...iber-optic.html

It does not do TTL, only manual control, so you have to set the strobe for manual flash. But no more electrical cable, and one less O-ring.

Alas, most of Ikelite's DSLR housings do not allow the flash to raise and fire. So this new Fiber Optic Adapter is mainly for using Ikelite strobes on Point and shoot Cams, I guess. I think I saw a circuit for a LED flasher that sits in the hotshoe and might be able to trigger this, but can't recall where now.

No Manta, that is not what I am talking about. Once again Athena makes an adapter ring that fits the Olympus PT-EP01 housing for the E-PL1 "PEN" camera. With the adapter mounted to the PEN housing ports from Olympus, Inon and Athena made for the Olympus DSLR housings (from Olympus, (SeaTool and Nexus for E-3) can be mounted on the PEN housing.

The ZEN Underwater Pen port (100 mm) fits only the PEN housing.

Phil Rudin

Phil, you are always a step ahead on Olympus stuff. I had not heard about the Athena adapter. It sounds good, but ... the opening for the lens is still narrow, so that only m43 lenses will fit (well, I tried the m43 converter and it won't fit, so forget the E series lenses I wanted to play with down under). There are not a lot of lens options for m43 just now, so while it's great the Athena adapter will let you put the 8 inch dome on the PT-EP01, I'm not sure what lenses at present make that worthwhile. What combinations make sense?

From my understanding the issue was to do with some small 'bumps' that were underneath the O ring which were formed from the mold. I think you need to remove the O ring and run your finger around to find them and then gently sand them away.

Hope this helps.

Karl

I did not believe this until I got a new Canon housing and looked for the mold release lines. They look like slightly raised lines through the area where the O-ring seals. I could see they might allow a slight leak at pressure. Sanding actually makes things rough, not smooth. You just can't see it if you use 3000 grit.

As a woodworker, I know the best way to make wood really smooth is simply to scrape it with a sharp edged tool, called .. a scraper. Any sharp edge will do. I use the back edge of a utility knife blade, not the cutting edge but the back. It's fairly sharp and will not do harm. Just run it over the tiny ridge until all is smooth. Don't apply so much pressure that you add to the problem, just drag the edge over the mold release lines until you can't feel them with your fingers. There are typically 4 hairline mold release lines under the O-ring. Pity Canon left this quality control step to the customer, but that's life. I like the housing otherwise, bone dry for me.

Hello Folks,
...my 1st dip in with the S90 in the canon WP-DC35 housing.... motley collection of lenses to work on the Dyron 67mm adaptor for this housing, and happily I can report great sucess with all three of my lenses :-)

The fisheye I'm using is the FIX UWL-04 with their 67mm thread: yes you've got to zoom in a notch or two but it works like a charm & is reasonably sharp at the edges too

My wide angle is a home converted Sea & Sea DX-2G wide angle which I unscrewed their bayonet mount & put on a standard 67mm stepping ring, works really well (though you need to zoom in 1 notch):[snip]

Finally..the macro lens. ..Remember the Sea & Sea 2T macro lens? ...if you unscrew the bayonet mount & add your own 67mm stepping ring you've got yourself a superb macro lens.... With the S90 in 'normal' focusing mode you'll get a lens-to-subject distance of about 80mm, and in proper macro mode ... about 40mm when the camera is at full zoom....

Excellent work. Did you get the Dyron adapter at Cameras Underwater? They are the only practical supplier I found. I'm on the verge of getting the adapter from them.

The Dyron 15 and 20mm conversion lenses are so compact compared to the Fisheye and Inon wides, I'm so tempted to get the 20. I worry the 15 is just not sharp in the corners, but wow it's wide.

Can you post some pics of your housing with the lenses and especially your DIY conversion of each lens? I was thinking of giving that a go too and don't want to re-invent the wheel. My idea was to put a step ring on the DC35, since the Dyron adapter is tough to buy here in the USA. Then I would use the 67mm screw mount versions of these lenses, but if the bayonet mount versions can be modified, that's great.

Thanks again, this is great stuff!!

..
I own an Olympus housing, PT-027, for my C-7070...  Last year, the buildhead connector broke. I managed to glue it back together with acrylic glue, and it held for a couple of dives.  Last week, I took the housing from the shelf, and was surprised to find out that the buldhead connector broke in two. The glue didn't fail, the plastic broke on the other side!

Now, I don't have a flash, nor planning to use one with this camera and/or housing, so I don't really need the connector, or plan on buying replacement connectors for hunderds of dollars.

Thanks ahead,
Gabi

I had the same problem with my PT-027 years ago.  One option is to rob one from another housing.  There are a lot of PT-022s sitting around unused, cheap.  It's the same part.  

I lucked out.  The good people at Reef Photo happened to have a replacement bulkhead in stock for $30.  Give them a call at 877.453.8927.