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Jock

Member Since 16 Dec 2005
Offline Last Active May 12 2015 01:24 AM
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Posts I've Made

In Topic: Advice on next camera to get

12 May 2015 - 01:24 AM

Hi,

the camera itself IMHO just does not matter. The (by far!) most important factor for taking good photos is behind the camera...

Any up-to-date SLR or Mirrorless is "good enough". All the internet rave on dpreview about "camera x" in my eyes is mostly b.s.! Have you ever seen proof, i.e. real photos that have been taken by all those self-named experts? Fortunately, here on wetpixel it is different. Take, for example, Phil Rudin (who is mostly active in the mirrorless sub-forum): He is talking a lot about cameras, lenses, ports, technical specs and so on. BUT - he does not just talk, he has been using himself the gear he is talking about. And he supplies photos he took with this special gear.

Just a few things you should think about:

- If size/weight does matter, micro43 could be an option.

- First thing I would worry about is choice and availability of housings. So you now have the ultimate super-duper camera, only to find out that there is only one housing on the market, and you cannot operate all those tiny buttons on the back with your clumsy fingers and/or when wearing gloves, or you find that the housing is too big for your small hands. You need to take a housing physically into your hands to find out if it is okay for you.

- Next thing is choice and availability of lenses suitable for u/w photography (for example, you may have a limited choice with Sony) and their corresponding port systems. There are many threads about port/lens combinations here, but I think first choice should be the recommended combination from the housing manufacturer, they have tested it (or they should have...). Of course, if you already have some "good" lenses that you use u/w and want to keep them instead of selling them on ebay, then your camera/housing choice is limited.


Regards,
Jock


In Topic: Wide Angel on E-M1 in Nauticam Housing

13 April 2015 - 07:51 AM

... A talented photographer like Amanda can find a way to make things work to produce publishable images.

 

Phil, you are so right! Unless you buy some really cheap stuff you cannot go completely wrong with todays u/w-photo equipment. Sometimes I feel that people`s photos would benefit a lot more if the time spent on studying technical specs would be spent on studying composition, creative lightning and things like that. A dull picture with perfect, spot-on sharpness from corner to corner is still a dull picture... 

 

Rugani, what are you going to do with your pictures? Publish them in a coffeetable book or National Geographic? Print them regularly in a very large format? Or -to be honest- mostly look at them on your PC or Mac? Think about it...

 

Ah, and go for the 7-14mm lens. You will love it, it is just great.

 

Jock


In Topic: HOW TO FLOOD YOUR NEW D750

06 April 2015 - 09:04 AM

Ken,

What more to say than "Welcome to the Club..."

My first flood years ago - a Motormarine with a hair on the o-ring. In-field repair (flushing with freshwater) was possible and saved my PNG-trip. Second flood - Nikonos RS - no idea what happened. Third flood - Nikonos V with 15mm lens on a rough shore entry. Then for years I thought I was through and Neptune had got his share.

Last year another flood with a Nauticam housing and an OM-D EM5 - again on a very rough shore entry (somehow I managed to loosen the closing latch). Now I have a Leak Sentinel, which might have avoided this last flood. But I took it easy, better the camera floods than me!

Good luck,

Jock

In Topic: Second thoughts about vacuum systems

26 March 2015 - 10:22 PM

This one seems pretty obvious (to me...): Vacuum systems give you a pre-dive security check against user errors, i.e. twisted o-rings, a hair on an o-ring etc. In your case the shutter gland was loose. Would you have noticed without a vacuum system? No. Could you have noticed with the vacuum system? Yes - IF you had operated/knocked/twisted the shutter button while on land. Does anyone do that (operate all housing controls pre dive excessively)? No.

And IMHO the camera shop owner is completely wrong! It does not make any difference if you pull from inside the housing (= apply a vacuum) or push from outside (= apply water pressure). So the idea that the o-rings are "sucked in" is nonsense. And nonsense especially if you think about the relatively small degree of vacuum you apply with your pump.

Bottom line: If you want to avoid a flooding don't take your housing under water :-)

Just my two Euro-Cents
Jock

In Topic: Flash settings with Olympus E-M1

26 February 2015 - 08:37 AM

Hi Michael,

 

maybe you want to have a look here. I did some tests with the magnet in/out and TTL/manual:

http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=51861

 

Generally I think it is not a good idea to mix different strobe brands and try to use TTL; even with two identical Inon Z240 TTL is not reliable - at least in my setup with an E-M5. Maybe the E-M1 is better in that respect? (I doubt...)

 

For wide angle TTL does not make sense, and for macro it is convenient (if it works!), but I shoot manual now. If exposure is a bit too bright or too dark, just use your RAW converter.

 

Jock

 

p.s. TTL="fill" in the camera and S-TTL on the strobe