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Member Since 16 Dec 2005
Offline Last Active Nov 20 2015 10:46 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Sea & Sea / Inon reliability - opinions

16 November 2015 - 10:16 PM


Others, including me, have experienced a twisting...

The strobe cap from Sea&Sea has a better design, it is almost impossible to lock it if the o-ring is twisted. But you cannot see the ring.
Inon has a transparent cap, the o-ring is yellow, so you can see a twisted o-ring - if you bother to have a look.
Both systems work. So this would not be a point to consider for me when buying a strobe.

The Inon has been on the market for a long time and proven its reliability, the DS2 is new. Is it sturdy? Probably. From the pictures of the DS2 I can see in the web it seems to be easy to operate, Inon is a bit more complicated in the beginning, and the strobe does not come with a useful manual. You have to do some web research to find your way, but once that is done no problem.

Steve, maybe you should throw a coin?


In Topic: Sea&Sea YS-D1/YS-D2 Not Designed For High Speed Sync

15 November 2015 - 12:39 AM

in your posting you write: "Looking to get a black background, I switched the camera from 1/200th to 1/250th. The result was a half exposed image." and "it's pretty obvious that for those of us looking to achieve those stunning black background shots by using high speed strobe / small aperture shots... "

Everybody please correct me if I am wrong, but I think that reducing the sync speed cannot give you the results you want!
As a rule of thumb (I do not talk about special situations here) when shooting wide angle, you balance ambient light (in the background) with the strobe light (foreground). In macro, you normally use small apertures and fast shutter times. So the background exposure is ALWAYS black! Try shooting with your macro settings and without a strobe, and you will see. Your photo with 1/250 is a proof for this - black. And it would still be black with 1/200, 1/125.
With a strobe (shooting macro and using standard macro settings on the camera), exposure is determined by strobe POWER only. The "strobe burning time" does not matter at all, it is always much shorter than any sync speed. 
The black background can be achieved by: Using a snoot on the strobe (= selective lighting) or using Photoshop ( :evilgrin: ) or by positioning the strobe in such a way that the light beam does not reach the background, i.e. strobe must not be pointed forward.
TTL might be an additional problem unless you use spot exposure mode on the subject: The exposure system wants to achieve an "overall neutral grey". The Strobe tries to (but cannot) lighten up the background, so the foreground can easily be overexposed.
So what do you need sync speeds smaller than 1/200 in macro mode for? No idea. IMHO you do not need it at all. In (ambient light) wide angle it makes sense for fast moving subjects like dolphins or so when you want to add some lighting to the body or belly. 

In Topic: Drowned Inon Z240 - anything worth salvaging?

31 July 2015 - 09:30 AM

Go ahead and test... :) 


Seriously, I think the yellow o-ring is way too thick. It may fit into the outer cap, but if you look at the space it has to seal at the strobe  - "inner" battery cap (with the contacts) to the strobe compartment - it will not fit.  And with the much thinner H2O o-ring the cap can be screwed down just neough to give a seal with the yellow o-ring. If you put a thicker o-ring into the cap you may loose this seal.

In Topic: Drowned Inon Z240 - anything worth salvaging?

29 July 2015 - 07:20 AM



unfortunately I do not have a proper ruler to measure the o-ring, but is has been said it is "size 130" - whatever this means (does not help much if I tell you it is "approximately 3mm*47mm" or so...). I bought the o-ring without the knob extensions on a dive show; I remember the dimsions were NOT imprinted on the package - no wonder, they sold it with some 1000% margin!


So I am not the only one who managed to flood an Inon due to a twisted o-ring. Since I use the second o-ring I did not have any problems, but I triple check the main o-ring.


Do you still have your drowned Inon? If so, maybe you are the one who could test the reliability of the second o-ring: Remove the yellow main o-ring and use the second o-ring alone on a deep and a shallow dive. Then check the battery compartment. Would be nice to hear your results! But also feel free to do that with your new Inon - no risk, no fun!


Regards, Jock

In Topic: Drowned Inon Z240 - anything worth salvaging?

15 July 2015 - 09:28 AM

Yes, BUT: If saltwater comes in contact with the batteries, they release gas, pressure is built up, and this pressure pushes the corrosive cocktail into the strobe. Happened to one of my Z240s. I was lucky: I disassembled the strobe as far as I could, gave it a good freshwater rinse, let it dry  - and alas, it has been working for more than two years now.


Had the same problem - a twisted o-ring that I did not notice. My fault, of course, but the Inon solution of sealing the battery compartment is less than ideal (IMHO).


Storker, for the next Inon you might want to invest into a second o-ring that you put into the cap before you dive (pics from h2o-tools.de):