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Member Since 16 Dec 2005
Offline Last Active Mar 26 2015 10:22 PM

#350527 Help needed: What is the thread size of this Ikelite strobe adapter

Posted by Jock on 19 July 2014 - 10:38 PM

@ Bill and Tom,


thanks! There are a few specialized hardware stores around Cologne, but instead of trying to find it there (stainless doesn't make it easier), I searched on ebay Germany and found it.


Life could be so easy if you US guys wouldn't be so stubborn and finally change to... METRIC!  :evilgrin:



#348337 Olympus OM-D E-M1 or wait for Sony A6000

Posted by Jock on 29 May 2014 - 08:23 AM

Another point which might be worth thinking about: as far as I know, the Sony is not splash proof, the Olympus is. Not a bad thing if you consider in which environment you will use the camera. (It COULD save the camera in case of a minor flooding, or if you need to open the housing on a wet RIB or so.)

#340142 OM-D EM 5 and the Inon Z-240 (Type4)

Posted by Jock on 01 December 2013 - 03:39 PM

In another thread there was/is some discussion about the settings of the Inon strobe in combination with the Oly. I am opening a new thread, because if someone else is doing a search on this topic it might be easier to find. Hope this is okay.


There were different opinions on how the ACC-button should be set - in, out, or does not matter..


So I made some test shots, one single Inon Z-240 Type4 connected via fiber optic cable to a Nauticam housing.

Here are the results: 


When shooting the strobe in S-TTL (and the camera in flash fill), it does not matter if the button is in or out.


When shooting the strobe in M (and the camera in 1/64 strobe power), the button must be pushed in to influence the strobe output. 


When shooting the strobe in M (and the camera in 1/64 strobe power) and having the button OUT, it seems that the strobe always fires at the lowest possible manual power; when shooting at f/22 or at f/8 there is NO visible difference between manual power EV2 or EV8.


Any comments, do I oversee something?






Attached Images

  • Z240-1.jpg
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#340086 Underwater settings for the Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by Jock on 29 November 2013 - 01:47 PM

Hi all.. I have a couple of questions regarding the use of the Inon Z240's with the Nauticam / OM-D EM-5


1)   "advance cancel circuit switch".  Should that be in the up or down position when using optical fibre connection?


2)    what is the purpose of the +1/4 EV compensation switch on the front?


I've learnt one thing…. "there is never a dumb question… it only becomes dumb when you don't ask…"  :unsure:  :dunno:


Thanks for your patience - Karen


Hi Karen,


You can find infos here


and here



My understanding - which is contrary to what "barilhu" says - is:


When you shoot "STTL" with your Inon, you will need to have the button in the "Up/Out" position, when you shoot manual, you need to push it in.

("If your camera does not fire a pre-flash, ACC must be disabled.") - when you shoot "Inon manual", you will set your internal OM-D strobe to "manual" and 1/64 power (which saves camera battery power and is enough to trigger the Inon), and no preflash is emitted.


The switch in the front is for use with "Auto" - which you normally do NOT use with you rOM-D, so forget it. (The strobe and not the camera will measure the amount of light that is reflected from the subject and will shut off when enough light has arrived. The plus 1/4 switch will cut down the amount of light that reaches the strobe sensor, so the strobe burns longer)





#335896 Stability Issues with setup

Posted by Jock on 17 August 2013 - 03:02 AM



why not keep it super-simple? - This setup has been working for me for many years, even with my heavyweight NikonosRS-Zoom-IkeSS200! 


The OM-D and the Inons are so lightweight - absolutely no problems during the 60+ dives I have been using it up to today. And I personally do not feel that the rig in itself is unstable. Maybe you need to apply some more force when tightening the screws!!! :laugh: ( But remember: After "very tight" comes "very loose"...)


And, by the way, a very simple solution, cost about 2 US-$, for the replacement of the unusable grey Nauticam port protection: A 77mm lens cap from ebay.





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#330007 Olympus OM-D E-M5

Posted by Jock on 19 April 2013 - 11:52 PM

May I sum up the recent discussion? : Buy ANY of the suggested combinations - IT WILL WORK FINE! 



#315864 Flooded my D7000

Posted by Jock on 05 September 2012 - 02:46 AM

Some guys here are trying to be smart and think they can avoid a flooding with proper care and diligence ???

Maybe you should read this: