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Member Since 16 Dec 2005
Offline Last Active Jan 07 2016 03:01 PM

Topics I've Started

Photoshop CC MAC OSX 10.10: Cursor/Tool-Tip Size Problem

31 October 2015 - 12:57 AM

Hi to the Mac experts,


I am relatively new in the Mac Universe; I bought a Retina iMac this spring. Due to the high resolution I increased the size of the mouse corsor for better visibility. When I use Photoshop, all tool tips seem to be linked to this increased size. (There was no such link under my Windows PC.)


My problem: There is a mismatch between the (increased) tool tips and the screen action! If, for example, I use the eraser in block mode, the area that is erased is much smaller than the square block that is displayed on the screen. Same with other tools. Makes fine-tuning almost impossible.


Is there any solution for correcting this (other than changing the system cursor size every time I start and close Photoshop)? Does the same problem exist under El Capitan? (Cannot upgrade yet because a program I need to use still crashes with 10.11, as the software developer warns.)


Regards, Jock

Olympus OM-D E-M5 and TTL-Problems (Inon / Sea&Sea)

07 June 2015 - 09:32 AM

In another topic Rodd wrote "I've had issues with getting the TTL to work consistently. ..." Well, I had the same problems and changed to manual. However sometimes it would be just convenient to have a reliable TTL, for example if you play around with f/stops. Or if a shy creature retreats if you fumble with strobe settings.


Today I did a series of test shots with TTL. Before I started I used the small camera strobe alone (no housing) and an Olympus FL300R; with both strobes exposure was 100%perfect.


My test setup for the u/w strobes: Camera was set to "Fill" flash, no flash output compensation. I used spot, center weighted and ESP metering, I used low ISO and ISO 400. All pics taken with an Oly 60mm macro lens. I shot with an Inon Z240 Type 4 and with a YS110a, both triple-checked for the correct settings. And single strobe only to keep things simple. I used two different fiber optic cables, both 3rd party products.


My results: No reliable TTL results. Sometimes the pics with f/stops 2.8 were okay, sometimes completely overexposed, f/3.5 to f/7.1 were mostly okay, sometimes overexpossed;  f/8 to f/13 sometimes okay, sometimes overexposed. In the range from f/14 to f/18 results were mostly okay, f/20 and f/22 were underexposed. (I checked- wIth manual output at f/22 the pics were completely overexposed, so the strobes had enough power.)


I changed the in-camera strobe compensation to plus and minus - this had little to no effect.


Then I remembered that I have an old Heinrichs-Weikamp TTL-Converter. So I used an electrical sync cord at the strobe and hand-held the converter in front of the housing strobe holes. Guess what - TTL was okay! In camera strobe compensation worked flawlessly. I could even get an old YS120 to work with perfect results.


But using this converter in the field is not a real option  too bulky, and ofor one strobe only. What could I do to get TTL working with fiber optic cables? I am a bit reluctant to buy an expensive genuine Inon or Sea&Sea cable only to find out that this does not help... Any idea? Does it make sense to buy a THICKER TOS link cable (2mm) and use this with the connectors (should work if I strip off the coating)? Any other idea?




Olympus UFL-3 - does anyone actually use one?

26 February 2015 - 09:03 AM



when I use my Olympus OM-D E-M5 topside with the small on-camera strobe in "fill" mode (=TTL), strobe exposure is 100% perfect. 


But when I use it u/w with my two Inon Z240 (S-TTL), the results are... mixed, at least. With f/2.8 or f/4 the pics are always too bright, with f/16 or smaller they are too dark, even when the strobes are very close to the subject. That's not what "TTL" should be like.


So kinda out of frustration, I started using manual strobe settings with my new digicam. (I am talking about macro, of course. For wide angle I use manual strobe settings exclusively.) It does work, of course, but is sometimes a bit annoying.


In my "analog days" TTL exposure was something I never had to think about - it just worked, and it was sooo convenient. 


I read about the Oly UFL-3 strobe. It is a Sea&Sea strobe which has RC integrated. From all what I have read about using RC strobes topside, they work perfect in terms of exposure. 


So after all these words my question: Does anyone have first hand experience with the UFL-3? Does it give perfect TTL-macro-exposures underwater? This would be a perfect "starting point" for my attempts for more creative lightning :)





Any news on the restrictions for 3 Sisters Springs?

07 February 2015 - 02:44 PM

I will be leaving on Tuesday to Crystal River for 10 days. Does anyone know if the discussed limitations like no-go areas inside the spring, no flash photography etc, are in effect? Especially flash photography - if it is generally forbidden inside AND outside the spring, I would leave my strobe, arm, batteries etc. at home - saves some 2kg luggage...

Could not find any up-to-date info on the "Fish and Wildlife" pages.

Kind regards,



p.s.: On a sunny and windy day, I could imagine that in the shallows manatees get a lot "strobe-like flashes" from diffracted sunrays... I took strobe photos some years ago, and not a single manatee ever showed any reaction. Only an idiot would aim the strobes straight into the eyes - why should one? There is way enough ambient light. The strobe is just to light up the belly. But try to tell that a ranger who does not dive... :(