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Member Since 26 Jun 2006
Offline Last Active Jun 12 2015 05:05 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: How do I avoid my wife murdering me when I come home with two more YS-250Pro...

09 June 2015 - 05:37 PM

Think Jewelry, esp. DIAMONDS and GOLD.

In Topic: WTB: Ikelite DS50 or DS51, dual sync cord

04 April 2015 - 04:53 AM

I have a used DS-51 in good shape and a dual Ikelite cord #4104.32. Also have an External Ikelite TTL adapter (nikonos 5 pin to Ikelite ). PM me if interested.

In Topic: Second thoughts about vacuum systems

27 March 2015 - 05:49 AM

Just got a response from Miso. Here are the facts on the LS3:


First, the sensor measures the internal pressure as soon as it's turned on. This is the reference pressure. Assume that the reference pressure is atmospheric, i.e. 1000 mbar. To get the blinking green light, one must reduce the internal pressure by 200 mbar, i.e. go from 1000 mbar to 800 mbar by pumping down. Once at blinking green, an increase in pressure of only 5 mbar will trigger the alternating colors blinking. This is a very small change and will be achieved by the introduction of about 6 ml of water per liter of internal housing volume. My SWAG (sophisticated wild-ass guess) is that the typical housing volume with dome port is 1.5 to 2.0 liters, less with flat port. I don't plan to fill my housing with water to test this estimate.


Also from Miso: He has a new product, the LS4 with temp. comp and other features that are very nice. He is offering the LS4 circuit board to current owners of LS3 for 50 euros. The LS4 board is a direct replacement for the LS3 board. The other nice feature is that it allows you to turn the sensor light off and retain the reference set point for the future. With the LS3, when you turn it off, you lose the reference set point and must equalize the housing before turning the LS3 back on. Then you have to pump it down again. The LS4 will extend time between battery changes. PM me if you want more info.

In Topic: Second thoughts about vacuum systems

27 March 2015 - 04:50 AM

I have emailed Miso for the nominal set points on the sensor in the LS3. I have had one for about 18 months and LOVE it. As I recall, Miso told me at one time that it takes a 10% reduction in internal pressure to turn on the green light. I'll confirm that, but:


Assume the housing is at 15 psia (that's absolute). Then the green light comes on at 13.5 psia with the removal of 10% of the volume inside the housing. 10% of the volume of the housing is a lot of water, at least for my Aquatica with the dome port installed. So to get the red light to come on, you need a portion of the 10% in water volume to be introduced into the housing. So, IMO the LS3 (or any other vacuum system) isn't going to help much in dealing with a leak that starts after you're underwater. It's main value is to insure that the system is secure before getting in and, to a much less extent, during the first few feet of descent before the outside pressure firmly seats everything. 


BTW I still have my electronic leak detector installed in my housing. That will tell me as soon as any water is introduced into the housing-long before the pressure increases to trip the red light. That may save the internals. As both perform different functions, having both methods gives me max chance of avoiding a flood.


I'll post an update once I hear from Miso,.

In Topic: FS Sola 4000, Subsee +10, various items, low, low prices

06 March 2015 - 05:01 AM



PM sent for Aquatica locking collar and any ULCS clamps left, if any.