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pbalves

Member Since 10 Aug 2006
Offline Last Active Today, 06:53 AM
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#399245 Leak Sentinel V4 and Vacuum Valves

Posted by pbalves on 10 September 2018 - 02:45 PM

Hi Tomek

Depending if the housing is empty or has the camera inside and also if it has the macro port or the big wideangle dome port attached, it will need different number of pumping to get the green light. It is physics. After getting the green light steady, pump once more (when the internal pressure is too close to the limit to turn orange, it might give you false alarms, as was said before on this or similar topic)

Never go diving without the protective cap. When ever you take out the pump, always put the protective cap before doing anything else to avoid to forget to put it.

Regarding the battery life, if you have one new battery, it should be enough for the full week of diving. But always have with you spare batteries (1 or 2). Sometimes the newbattery is not really new or fully charged or is faulty. And in that case you can save the rest of the dives. When the battery is low power, it might give you false alarms (also als states on some posts on the forum)

BR

Pedro Alves


#398938 Strobes wont stay put

Posted by pbalves on 01 September 2018 - 04:00 PM

Or elements from different suppliers (adapter/arm/clamp)

Not all has the same exact measure...


#398561 Strobe Arms - Are expensive models worth it?

Posted by pbalves on 21 August 2018 - 01:21 PM

Hi Hyp

 

I do not know the new arms and clamps from aquatic (DELTA 3 TECHNICAL LIGHTING CONTROL). I new the old ones, and those I did not liked. The arms did not had the grove and o-ring in it, and the clamps were like a week and it was not easy to have a proper grip (it was necessary to make a lot of strength to secure the arms in position, and the hands several times were slivering on the clamp well, both to close and to open).

 

I believe the new design might have solved these issues, but I have no experience with that.

 

ULCS is top. I have clamps from them, and the arms are carbon ones from Extrem'Vision (I think they do not produce them anymore...).

 

If I was going to buy new ones today, most probably I would go for ULCS with the stix. Do not know if I would go for original ones or Chinese copy, but specially on the clamps it is critical do make the right choice. I saw some clamps that the ears of the clamps seam too fragile. And saw also some clamps that do not have a proper spring, and that starts to get rusty with the salted water.

 

Usually, my policy is when buying at distance, if there is a quite big difference in value, and by "deep" analysis of the pictures and other "details", I can find positive aspects on the items, I might try something not branded. If not, go for the branded and known, probably the safe purchase.

 

There are other brands that have nice arms. Nauticam, Inon

 

One thing that you should consider, is to go with one brand alone. Even the size being supposedly the same, there are small diferences that time to time makes a difference (to give you and example, my arms are in carbon, but the connection on the strobes is in aluminium from ULCS, and sometimes I feel difference in the gripping on both parts (the arm and the connection part to the strobe)

 

With ULCS you can not go wrong. For sure you can also find good systems on other brands. The best way is to find a way to try yourself the different possibilities (if you can go to a dive show you might be able to fill the difference if there is any yourself, or in big underwater photography equipment stores - everyday less opportunities as there are not so many and the ones that exist every time has less stock )

 

Pedro Alves

 

PS - when in easy dives, the clamps/arms are just adjusted, so you are able to position the strobes without touching the clamps. When in strong currents, the arms/clamps need to be tightly secured. The good arms/clamps are the ones that work well and smoothly on both type of dives.




#397718 Removing scratches from a dome port

Posted by pbalves on 24 July 2018 - 07:18 AM

I do not know the lens, so I might be guessing...

 

The glass part, definitely cannot be recovered.

 

On the description of the lens that you made, it seems that the lens might have an acrylic element to correct aberrations from the glass lens. If this is the external part of the lens, theoretically you can polish it, but being an element of correction, the correction will be altered, and the final result won’t be so good as the lens was in new.

 

If it is too bad or if the loss is minimal, I do not know....

 

But if the lens "as is" is not usable, maybe you do not have too much to lose to try to polish it....




#397333 How to find a leak ?

Posted by pbalves on 12 July 2018 - 08:23 PM

Well, you can do what Tim has sugested (two or tree extra pumps after blinking green, and wait for 24h to check if it is realy a leak or the pressure being too close to the setpoint).

If the leak confirms, you can try to revert all the upgrades (puting in the original part),mount the acuum system and check the housing. And then placing all the other modifications one by one and test in between, to understand if the problem is in any of the elements.




#396171 Scratched glass

Posted by pbalves on 08 June 2018 - 07:29 AM

You might be able to get the scratch out of field of view (see scheme)

 

Attached Images

  • Field of view Schem.jpg



#396153 Scratched glass

Posted by pbalves on 07 June 2018 - 12:29 PM

The scratch is really close to the edge of the lens. If you manage to align the scratch with the top center or lower center position of the lens into the housing most probably you can get the scratch out of the field of view of the sensor and if so it does not mess with the pictures


#389635 Little Beach, Nelson Bay NSW

Posted by pbalves on 22 November 2017 - 02:44 PM

Very nice video. Lots of interesting behavior.

And interesting location. Lots of life.


#388931 Best Vacuum System for DSLR Housing

Posted by pbalves on 01 November 2017 - 03:05 AM

Leak Sentinel / Mico is the way to go!
I bought 2 systems from him.

One complete for a friends Ikelite housing (version 4). It works fine.

Another bought was a standalone valve and pump for my Aquatica housing. The Aquatica housing had the surveyor already, that is able to measure the change in the pressure, so I just needed to add a valve. I do not like the valves from Aquatica, backscater, ikelite, nauticam as all of them are on L shape or too bulky and it seams to me that it is more probable to get things stacked there.

Besides that, it is less expensive!

The surveyor from Aquatica is possible to be bought stand alone. It has the Benedict that also has a moisture alarm, signaling by light and by sound. The draw back is that you need to open the housing to activate the survival and then proceed with the test.

The leak sentinel allows you to activate it without opening the housing, and it allows you to make the test in the day before and switch off the sensor till the few moments before the dive, allowing some saving in the battery.

And Miso is very solicitous.


#376578 Dome port reflection?

Posted by pbalves on 31 August 2016 - 04:16 AM

I have bought it at Cameras Underwater
15 GBP
https://www.camerasu...eye-lenses.html

But you can find it on other stores (like bckscatter)


#376575 Dome port reflection?

Posted by pbalves on 31 August 2016 - 03:13 AM

I have bought the skirt already made.
(See Neoprene Light Blocking Mask on the link
http://aquatica.ca/e...ries_misc.html)


#373482 Remote Strobe Trigger

Posted by pbalves on 10 May 2016 - 01:28 PM

The triggerfish has 2 versions: one with internal battery and another without internal battery.

The first is the newer version and allows to trigger sea and sea strobes. Inon strobes can be triggered by both versions.

BR