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Rai

Member Since 26 Sep 2006
Offline Last Active Jul 05 2011 11:30 AM
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Topics I've Started

Canon 400D in 350D Ikelite Housing

14 December 2006 - 08:07 AM

Adapting a Canon 350D S&S housing for a Canon 400D it's very easy: just put the new camera in the tray and you can take it down. The great miss in this case it's the acces to the left buttons that are slightly displaced more to the left (in order to give more room fot the big LCD screen of the 400D). All this has been commented in wetpixel and even Pakman post a very smart solution to acces the left buttons in this thread:

http://wetpixel.com/...showtopic=15364

But all this simplicity can't be just applied in the case of the ikelite housing due mainly to the Ikelite tray (and also e-TTL2 converter case) and his back alingment posts. This posts prevent the 400D be aligned with the tripod socket. So I had to make some extra mods to achieve the same in my Ikelite housing.

First of all, I have to say that all my mods are extremely rough and requires some adjusting afterwork to make it function properly. I don't have the proper measuring and machining tools (and specially time) to do it at home in a pro looking way. So I used very odd materials and solutions, but the important thing is that, despite the blotched job look, they work pretty well, at least for me.

In the Ikelite case, there are two kind of mods. The first ones allows you to put the camera in the Ikelite tray (which has the e-ttl2 converter within) and the second ones are intended for allow acces to all buttons.

As far as the main difference with the S&S housing lays in the back posts, the first thing I did was to remove them (with the help of pliers and a good pull). Obviously, then you have to add two new aligment posts to prevent the camera spinning around the tripod socket.

I decided to do this in the front face. Once unmounted the e-TTL converter case/tray and with a drill and thread tool, I put an screw as aligment post at the left side of the camera and a plate screwed at the front of the tray (in the right side). In order to do this, the first thing is disassembly the tray/converter case and work with the upper sidepart. The main reason to do so is that the case contains the converter circuitry and the fixing of the alignment elements must not have any interference with it. Besides, the screw head of the left alignment post implies that the drilling must have a countersink to allow perfect closing of the two parts of the case.

Adjustment were done basically with several layers of tape and a piece of plastic tube for the screw and some thin plastic layers (holded below the duct tape) in the plate case to give the main extra thickness required.

Here you can see a couple of photos of the tray with the two alingment elements:

Upper view
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Lower view
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Camera set in the tray with tape added.
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Here you can also see that the depth of field preview control has no interference
with the left alignment post (at the right of the picture).


With this setup I made the Tokina 10-17 test photos, but I wanted to acces the left buttons too, so I make a transfer pad to solve the slight misplacement of the left buttons. This is because , at that moment, pakman haven't post their smart solution to this problem. I'll put here because it might become the inspiration for further mods.

The transfer pad mod for the left buttons implied screwing a mini PVC piece to the back of the housing (in the inner side) which holds a small transfer pad made of flexible plastic sheet and furniture door bumpers (selfadhesive).

This pictures will show clearly how I did it:

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DISCLAIMER: Of course, I'm just telling only what I've done. I don't recommend to do this because it's easy to damage your equipment and I'm pretty sure it will void your warranty. Remember that if you decide to do this kind of mods to a housing, you do it at your own risk.

Besides, it's very probably that your e-TTL2 converter won't work with the 400D camera (I'm not sure yet), even in manual mode. So probably you'll have to use your strobe in manual mode with an old Ikelite sync cord (non digital and I haven't tested it) or with Ikelite-Nikonos Sync cords and a 2-Nikonos-to-Ikelite T-connector (my set-up that certainly works). ASAP I'll get news about this I'll post here.


Rai

Tokina 10-17 FE test fotos I

01 November 2006 - 10:16 AM

In this post I put my first impressions about this lens:

http://wetpixel.com/...m...st&p=106703


In this spanish forum there are two post with a very little selection done with the photos full size:

http://forobuceo.com...pic.php?t=24394

http://forobuceo.com...pic.php?t=24409

But I'll add some explanations here.

This is one on-land shot of the Coal dock in the Tarragona harbor, just at the other side of the entrance do the dive site.

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Just looking to the other side I've made a check test with the camera mounted on the hosuing. This image is shifted in brightness and contrast to reveal better the vignetting of the dome shade on land:

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As I wrote in the other post, there were some alignment problems mainly dued to the adaptation for the 400D of my Ikelite housing for the 350d.

Luckily, UW vignetting is lower and only you can see on the lower corners (specially on the right one due to the camera adapatation). One alignmet is corrected if some vignetting still persists, a file can just solve it :D .

The conditions were not ideal as you can see in this photos. In the first one you can see (or not :lol: ) the line that guide us to the wreck:

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But at very shallow depths, with available ligth, water can look very different if you just look upwards:

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Due to the low viz conditions and the special quality of that lens I only used 10 mm focal (180┬║) in my photos, but I made one shot to test that everything was also fine with the port at the other side of the focal scale (17 mm):

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This is a very promising ISO 800 test shot about how to improve posibilities in murky conditions with available light:

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I don't know to post the other thumnails after this post or open a new one. Suggestions ?

Rai