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Stewart L. Sy

Member Since 03 Feb 2003
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 02:37 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Manipulating underwater subjects

11 December 2015 - 11:37 AM

This behavior is unfortunately rampant in Anilao.   One one occasion, guides from a well known to WP members move a Cerasatoma alleni nudibranch from where I was shooting it in a small overhang at Kirby's Rock to the top of a small rock so that their guests would be able to get a black background.  A couple of years ago, a post was floating around about the "Banana Split Rhinopias Shot" Where a Brown, White and Pink (signifying the flavours in a traditional banana split sundae) were moved to very shallow depths in Mainit Muck so that divers could take a shot of this "once in a lifetime" opportunity, once in a lifetime was right as the fish were never seen again.  My guide told me that they were found in the 25 meter plus depth and when they were taken to 8 meters, and put together... they are a territorial critter after all... =(.  I do questions the photos of critters that are obvious bottom dwellers that are suddenly splayed out in the water column and conveniently has the sun behind them...


Anilao is not exclusive to this behaviour, I've seen it elsewhere in the Philippines and I'm sure this happens in other photo heavy dive destinations.  


As photographers, we have to stop thinking of getting the shot and just let the shot happen.

In Topic: 2 x S&S YS-D1 Strobes Mint, with Covers

24 September 2015 - 07:17 PM


In Topic: Aquatica Vacuum Leak Sensor turns orange underwater

23 September 2015 - 07:43 AM

I have the exact same setup, but during the initial pump down stage, I do a couple to three more pumps after the LED has turned green. I've taken the system down to recreational scuba limits with no change in LED colour.  Also, I wouldn't suggest leaving the system pumped down as it would accelerate battery consumption.   





In Topic: Yet another DIY fibresnoot

11 September 2015 - 12:10 PM

I make my own snoots for the D1 and now making a set for a friend's Z240.  The light on the D1 isn't bright enough to aim with, especially if you're looking at piggy backing it onto the main light.  I saw that someone sells a laser that you can mount on the arm to help aim them, I think it was 10-Bar.



In Topic: which setup to shoot burst underwater?

11 August 2015 - 08:38 AM

I have shot higher speed bursts underwater.  I used my 5dmk3 shooting at 6fps with the YS-D1's.  By default, as the 5dmk3 does not have a pop up flash, I used electrical sync cords.  I used this set up mainly for mandarin fish or anemone fish shots.  Using the D1's at 1 click under half power, sometimes even 2 clicks.  I find I can fire around a 2 second burst with the D1's.  I don't do this often and do let the strobes cool down. Most of the time the burst is for 6-8 shots.   


Optical triggering by the factory popup flash won't usually work even if you manually set the flash to low power as (in Canon's case) the body limits to 3fps.  If you want optical triggering then you'll need some sort of converter from electrical to optical, like the one found on S&S housings, I believe this setup will also do TTL, but I don't have first hand experience.