Synthesizer Patel

Press to focus.  Pick something very close to what you are trying to shoot, but brighter.  Once the lens gets close to focusing, take finger off shutter and focus again.  This will help minimize the lens racking all the way in and out.

I take it you have this lens and you've noticed it doing that as well - PITA isn't it   - especially with the relatively stoneage AF system used on this lens - good tip though thanks.
I reckon then that if I combine separating AF and shutter buttons with this technique, I'll be pretty close to a complete solution.

As answered, diffraction.  I find the image degrades noticeably after f/16.  I choose f/22 as the start point to my compromise between depth of field and overall sharpness.  But this depends on the distance to subject.

Thanks again - I'll have a play around in that range and do some comparison shots beyond f22 to find a compromise that works for me.

Camera shake only exists for the portion of an underwater image who's exposure is not provided by the strobes.  It shouldn't be a problem for macro photography, unless you are very shallow with tons (kilos) of available light.  In that case you would actually use a faster shutter speed and let the strobe provide more light.  This gets rid of motion blur and provides better color.

Pretty much as I anticipated, but nice to know I'm on the right lines.

Bumpity bump

1. Use a MF port (they are there). Alternative is to use the function setting to use the * button as a AF switch. Then preset the focus on a contrast rich bit that is the same distance as the subject. Or use a focus light !

I considered getting a manual port  - but according to the port chart, there isn't one for this lens - my experience is that the Ike chart isn't comprehensive though so there may be one but they simply haven't listed it - if anyone can reccomend one that they know does work I'd be grateful.
I considered separating the buttons for shutter and AF - haven't tried it yet (lens only arrived 2 days ago) but its good to know that someone else thinks along the same lines as me.

2. Thats diffraction. Google it for better explanations then I can give. It happens with all macro lenses.

so basically you are saying avoid going beyond f22 then?

3. use a tripod on land for these kinds of macro shots. I dont have the lens, but in general shooting with 1/200 or 1/250 (maximum sync or just below) should be allright.

Normally I would use a tripod - however I'm trying to emulate how I would shoot underwater as much as possible (I even considered putting the camera in the housing minus the port to get used to using the port controls    ) - so looking for more dynamic subjects like bugs and butterflies etc where using a tripod is often not practical

Hope it's ok to ask a question instead ...
Which macro lense does this port fits ? Can it be use with the Nikon 105VR ?
Thanks!

feel free

although this is the port you would use for a sigma 105mm when shooting with a canon dslr, apparently you need a 5505.46 for the Nikon 105VR

here's a link to the port compatibility chart on the ikelite website - its not completely comprehensive as there are other lenses not listed that will work with certain ports - but its a very useful reference nonetheless..

http://www.ikelite.c...port_nikon.html

Thanks Vannar - I appreciate that the sigma 15mm will not be full 180 on the 10d - it'll still be darned wide though - perhaps not quite as wide as the tokina, but I tend to have a bias towards prime lenses as they are often sharper - saying that, I havent made up my mind for sure yet and the tokina is definitely a contender.

I hear what you are saying about longer macro lenses and flat ports - and I'm agreed - in the longer term I will invest in a 100 or 105 and the appropriate flat port - but for now funds just aren't quite there so I'm looking to make a few compromises.

ps - I hear that if you are brave enough, you can modify EF-S lenses to fit other canon DSLRs that have the same sized sensor (like the 10d)