Definitely a 'max' size bag, fits a ton a stuff, and I've flown successfully with it all but once. Cathay Pacific got me with a weight limit of the bag empty! So I carried gear on my person (photo vest stuffed full, sling camera) and swapped housing to my gf's carry on etc. Took the bag on the plane almost empty.
I do find the sides like to bow out so I have a pair of straps I wrap around it between check in and boarding so it doesn't look too big.
Lowepro Whistler 450:
Just got this free, great Lowepro warranty, and agree with Aotus that it's heavy but carries well. Gear capacity is maybe 2/3 of the Think Tank roller + has outer compartment too. While no laptop slot, my 15" fits perfect in that outer 'wet' compartment, but I'd remove it before laying a loaded bag down to access gear. Works while flying though with a small laptop bag packed in my suitcase.
Its surprisingly narrow but its designed to carry skis etc on the sides. But that meant, when boarding late, I fit it fully loaded into a tiny overhead space last flight while people with much smaller rollers were lugging them back to the jetway to gate check on the full flight. Massive win.
Bonus: The camera box can be removed. Next non-photo trip I may use it as a normal bag. I've also seen someone put the box into a normal small roller, converting it to a camera roller for travel.
Seems this no longer exists and Kata's been absorbed by Manfrotto. Designed as a pro camcorder bag, its shape is brilliant with a square cross section, and fits a 9" dome standing up as well as my laptop (in a padded sleeve) laying on top of the dividers holding the housing/strobes etc. Just wish it was a roller, would be my go-to for travel with the dome.
I also have 2 old Pelicans (I think 1550) that I don't travel with but are great for the boat here, where I do most of my diving/photo. Wish they were rollers though. Seriously would consider the 1510 or 1535Air.
Personal item is either Lowpro Flipside 300 (older version) or Photo Sport 200. The flipside is my go-to daily small camera bag (handles an slr + pro lens trinity very well). The Photo Sport is great for mirrorless gear or a subset of dslr gear. Fully expanded it can carry a ton of stuff, even my 15" laptop, yet it can be cinched down super small for activities like skiing.
Edit: Just thinking about this. Of the 3 bags I described, all can fit straight-in into an overhead bin, but the Think Tank (and rollers in general) are wide, taking up a lot of space across the bin while leaving a big gap between the top of the bag and the top of the bin. The CC-195 and Whistler both have rather square cross sections utilizing the space all the way to the top of the overhead bin and much less width across the bin. This can easily be the difference between having to gate check or not on a full flight.
Please forgive my cynicism but 11 replies and no one has mentioned the primary issue here??? Apologies guys, but some of these replies are just confusing the situation.
Your ambient exposure is too bright.
Your strobe clearly works, but the TTL circuit sees plenty of exposure from the ambient light and doesn't 'need' to add much to create a 'properly' exposed image. Dial down your ambient exposure.
Also, as mentioned, you need to be a bit closer for best results but decent images can be had at your shooting distances.
White balance is also way off. If your files are raw, crank up the magenta in post and you'll see a difference. For the future, start with the camera's 'Cloudy' white balance (usually a cloud symbol).
Plan a dive to sit in one spot for 15+mins and experiment with exposure and flash settings. Set everything to manual and play around. Find what works for a given subject (even just a rock...) then switch to TTL and see if you can replicate it.
Looks to me like a post=processing issue. Can you tell us how your images get processed? In-camera settings? Any customization done to the camera settings? Are you using D-lighting set on high?
Sorry but its definitely not a post processing issue.
To simplify my post above I'm 95% sure its condensation inside the port from overheating as the housing sits in the sun. This can happen very quickly if the port's uncovered but can still happen with the port covered. It can take a very long time to dissipate and be exacerbated by the cool water (greater temp difference b/w inside and outside of housing), ruining entire dives.
I've found UW specific fiber cables quite thin and flimsy (and expensive!) so I've taken to making my own out of 3mm end glow cable, mounting it into the plug ends from a failed cable. There was a recent thread about this exact issue with S&S strobes & led triggers with a video someone posted making it work with a custom cable like mine.
Fiber cable is super cheap. Cut, flame polish the end, mount into the plug and you're good to go. Someone else suggested dipping in boiling water & wrapping around a rod to create a coil in the cable. Plan to try that.
I've built my own FO cables as well. Seemed like a no brainer - existing ones I had were so bloody thin and flimsy and cost a fortune. When they inevitably failed, I cut the plug ends off and mounted them to some decent size end glow (or could use multi strand). FO cable is cheap. You can get the plug ends for a couple bucks from some of the UW photo shops.
I understand how TTL makes everything underwater quite a bit easier but I am confident that with some trial and error, my experience shooting almost entirely with artificial light on land will allow me to work within the limitations of my camera setup.
I also work a lot with artificial light topside and I'm confident you'll be totally fine in manual UW. Its really not complicated, at least regarding strobe power, when you have experience working with these tools.
Get the D500 and keep your 10-17. That camera is a beast and the 10-17's versatility and compactness with a small dome is unrivaled underwater. Ignore the "FX are the pro cameras" mantra nonsense. Mostly came from Nikon ill-serving the DX line for a few years.
I've shot a D500 alongside my D810 topside and would seriously prefer it for certain things like macro. Image quality is 100% up to par, though I don't pixel peep.
If you can easily do that Type3 to Type4 conversion, Subal makes the most sense to keep ports and viewfinder. Otherwise if you're in Canada check out Aquatica, I'm on my 3rd housing since 2006 and they've been fantastic. Prices are very reasonable, perhaps more so from within the country.
The other option would be to just switch to a mirrorless system like Sony or Olympus. They're so compact and image quality will still blow you away when paired with quality lenses.
This is ongoing issue in all photo forums above or below water, suddenly you have extra resolution and when you look at the corners at 100% in Photoshop you discover that the image does not look as sharp as the lower resolution older model, therefore the new camera causes poor corners. In fact the corners are the same as they always were and the image will look the same if you downsample to 36 MP or whatever the resolution of the previous model was.
The actual situation is you can't take advantage of that extra resolution in the corners because the lens does not resolve that well in the corners.
Indeed, well articulated, but has it been definitively shown somewhere? Personally I just don't see it both topside and underwater.
All I've read are allusions to the idea on forums - primarily before the D800 came out in 2012. I've not seen much mention of it since (thought it was debunked) until here and now with the D850 UW.
Of course I've always been a firm advocate for using the best optics possible and when asked I advise people of the importance of lenses vs cameras (and of shooting vs fussing about gear).
I can somewhat see the idea from a "get-the-most-from-your-high-res-camera" perspective but not that one's image will suffer due to some larger relative discrepancy between the sharp center and unsharp corners. That acceptable optics on a D810 (or even D700) may no longer be such on a D850.
I shoot a lot and just haven't seen it. Though I'm not much of a pixel peeper.
I can't recall ever hearing in the film days that soft corners were blamed on film having too much resolution power.
I believe that the current best wide angle/dome combo for 36mp camera is also the current best combo for 45mp camera.
A big 'nay' to that one, both topside and UW. Not watched the linked video but I stopped using UV filters years ago. Even good quality filters can be detrimental to the image, seen it myself. Also, in many years of topside shooting, haven't yet felt the front of a lens threatened as to require protection.
Lens hoods however are a different story. When you drop your camera, as I've done multiple times, it will impact on one corner of the body and on the front of the lens. A hood will save the lens. An L-plate likely helps absorb the camera-end of the impact too.
You don't need no stinkin' TTL. Never used it UW, never wanted to.
I've used mixed strobe brands for a couple years now (Inon, Ikelite) since my 2nd Inon flooded. Its not ideal but works fine as long as I gel the Inon to match the Ikelite. I have them very close using a mild CTO, I think 1/4.
Im in the water year round and my 2 primary pairs of fins (full foot cressi garas and open heel mares avanti) are over 10 yrs old and just starting to show wear. I often don't even rinse them. Too busy taking care of my camera and bc/reg. Fins are the one thing you don't need to worry about.