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Member Since 05 Dec 2006
Offline Last Active Today, 02:49 AM

#391191 Best wide angle lens for Nikon D850 in Nauticam housing

Posted by Undertow on 12 January 2018 - 01:24 PM

This is ongoing issue in all photo forums above or below water, suddenly you have extra resolution and when you look at the corners at 100% in Photoshop you discover that the image does not look as sharp as the lower resolution older model, therefore the new camera causes poor corners.  In fact the corners are the same as they always were and the image will look the same if you downsample to 36 MP or whatever the resolution of the previous model was. 


The actual situation is you can't take advantage of that extra resolution in the corners because the lens does not resolve that well in the corners. 


Indeed, well articulated, but has it been definitively shown somewhere? Personally I just don't see it both topside and underwater.


All I've read are allusions to the idea on forums - primarily before the D800 came out in 2012. I've not seen much mention of it since (thought it was debunked) until here and now with the D850 UW.


Of course I've always been a firm advocate for using the best optics possible and when asked I advise people of the importance of lenses vs cameras (and of shooting vs fussing about gear). 


I can somewhat see the idea from a "get-the-most-from-your-high-res-camera" perspective but not that one's image will suffer due to some larger relative discrepancy between the sharp center and unsharp corners. That acceptable optics on a D810 (or even D700) may no longer be such on a D850. 


I shoot a lot and just haven't seen it. Though I'm not much of a pixel peeper. 


I can't recall ever hearing in the film days that soft corners were blamed on film having too much resolution power. 


I believe that the current best wide angle/dome combo for 36mp camera is also the current best combo for 45mp camera. :)






#390766 Clear UV Filters - yay or nay?

Posted by Undertow on 02 January 2018 - 12:36 PM

A big 'nay' to that one, both topside and UW. Not watched the linked video but I stopped using UV filters years ago. Even good quality filters can be detrimental to the image, seen it myself. Also, in many years of topside shooting, haven't yet felt the front of a lens threatened as to require protection.


Lens hoods however are a different story. When you drop your camera, as I've done multiple times, it will impact on one corner of the body and on the front of the lens. A hood will save the lens. An L-plate likely helps absorb the camera-end of the impact too. 

#390499 one Inon Z240 producing less light

Posted by Undertow on 23 December 2017 - 04:55 PM

Inons have 2 flash tubes. Perhaps one has blown.

#390446 Professional on dry land - Strobe insights

Posted by Undertow on 20 December 2017 - 02:36 PM

You don't need no stinkin' TTL. Never used it UW, never wanted to. 


I've used mixed strobe brands for a couple years now (Inon, Ikelite) since my 2nd Inon flooded. Its not ideal but works fine as long as I gel the Inon to match the Ikelite. I have them very close using a mild CTO, I think 1/4. 

#364816 storing fins between trips

Posted by Undertow on 30 August 2015 - 02:16 PM

Im in the water year round and my 2 primary pairs of fins (full foot cressi garas and open heel mares avanti) are over 10 yrs old and just starting to show wear. I often don't even rinse them. Too busy taking care of my camera and bc/reg. Fins are the one thing you don't need to worry about.