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E_viking

Member Since 03 Jan 2007
Offline Last Active Today, 08:41 AM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Flooded Z240 (and how it could be saved temporarily)

Yesterday, 10:34 AM

The extra O-ring works fine.

 

/Erik


In Topic: Macro Shutterspped limitations on NEX?

Yesterday, 09:29 AM

I assumed that he using M mode, but could have been A as well.

 

I was fiddling around with a NEX6 at SGP and I ended up at 1/160 as well.

It seems that 1/160s is the correct one.

 

Mark: was it the Macro Lense?


In Topic: Spare Body or not

22 May 2013 - 09:24 PM

 

My bro-in-law flooded a nikon on a live aboard recently.  Even if he would have had a spare, the electronics in the housing were toast and thus the second body would have done no good.

It depends on your system obviously.

And what if you couldn't determine the cause of the original flood, would you bring down the next body and lens?

 

 

The only thing of real importance that I can see that would get fried is if you have a TTL Converter inside the Housing.

The Hotshoe is basically just wires => rinse in sweetwater => works

Leak Detector , well...

TTL Converter:  would be toast.

 

I had a flooding about 5-6 years ago ( as always a really really stupid user mistake).

I never had to replace the Hotshoe ( strobe connectors) and even the Leak Detector was still working.

Therefore in most Housings a spare would help a lot!

 

/Erik


In Topic: Spare Body or not

21 May 2013 - 09:07 PM

You might already carry a 60mm and  a 105mmfor macro. As well as a Fisheye and a rectilinear Wideangle.

That is sort of a backup. Admittedly not a 1:1 backup, but...

 

There is not that much electronics inside the Housings. The Hotshoe is mostly cables and should be ok after drying up..

OK, the Leak Detector would be fried. Not the end of the world though.

 

A backup Body would in my opinion be the most sensible backup.

That said I do not bring a backup. A good vacuum system should do the job instead!

 

/Erik


In Topic: Pool test D800 and 17-35 with Seacam superdome

21 May 2013 - 11:34 AM

Hmm, never had any issues with the Tokina 10-17, even here in Putrid Sound... ;-)

 

At f/4 the 16-35 isn't bad, but if I'm going to shoot at 16mm the Sigma FE or Nikon 16FE f2.8 is the lens of choice. Zoomed out to 35mm it becomes f5.6 and AF was very unreliable in Mexico, except near the surface is fairly bright conditions.

 

My experience, YMMV. I know a lot of guys love the lens, I just couldn't get it to work well zoomed out.

 

Jack

Which version of the 16-35mm are you using?

The present version is f/4 through the zoom range.  

It works just nicely in my experience.

 

/Erik