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Member Since 09 Feb 2007
Offline Last Active Yesterday, 01:32 PM

Posts I've Made

In Topic: Remote Strobe Trigger

12 July 2016 - 04:37 AM

The limitations on using any "on board" slave sensor is that it will typically have to be in line of sight with the triggering strobe.


This means that you will (a) see the strobe in the image and (b) you will get the harsh light that is output close to the strobe itself.


By using a remote sensor on a cable, it allows the strobe to be placed "out of shot" and the light to be directed/shielded in order to use the softer light that is further away from the strobe itself.


I used the Triggerfish with the YS-D1 and it was fine.


All the best



In Topic: To Filter or Not To Filter

08 July 2016 - 11:25 PM

Hi Stuart,


Detailed instruction on how to make your first post are here!




In terms of your query, filters correct the color shift towards blue or green that occur underwater.


Post-capture white balance creates a global color shift. The most common result is that this drains away the blues or greens (as the software shifts the spectrum toward the red end). This leaves them looking very washed out.


Shooting in RAW captures all the sensor information, but given that there is little information in the red end of the spectrum at depth, it cannot capture information that simply isn't there.


By reducing the amount of blue/green light that the RAW image is capturing by using a filter, this allows the camera to white balance in a way that is more natural looking and retains the deep blue and green colors of the water column.


Most images have some sort of post capture work done on them. The point is that shooting with a filter on some types of image will give you better results post capture.


In terms of whether you chose to believe the information presented in the shared link, that is up to you. I guess the many underwater photographers that successfully use filters to enhance their images regularly will continue to do so, and if you don't want to use them that is up to you.


BTW, if you put "filter" into the search button above, or Google "Wetpixel filter" or similar, you will end up with over 100 results, some of which would give you more understanding about filters...just saying  :mocking:



In Topic: OMD EM5 Inon Strobe HELP!!!

08 July 2016 - 09:23 AM

If on manual, magnets need to be in. This cancels the pre-flash. Adam

In Topic: Help with strobe settings

07 July 2016 - 01:57 PM

Perhaps that is the problem. No strobe will light up a whale shark! 


The light output from your strobe will only travel a few meters at best. The key with wide-angle shooting is to expose the scene correctly and the use the strobe to light a subject in the foreground. In  general, TTL cannot cope with this as it doe snot know what you are trying to light and will attempt to light the whole scene with the strobe (which it cannot do!).


Reality is there are no "correct settings". In manual mode, use the camera's meter to set the exposure and then light your foreground with the strobe. With  little practice, it is actually relatively simple to do.


For macro, you are typically much closer to subjects, and TTL can be more reliable, as long as you only want to take "front on" shots rather that us more creative lighting techniques.



In Topic: sea lions

07 July 2016 - 01:46 PM

Hi Rob,


With seals (similar speed) with the D810, I use AF-C in 3D AF mode almost exclusively, It is amazingly fast and accurate.


If you have the options I would suggest using a Sigma 15mm with a 170mm port. The 16-35mm is great, but you really need to keep it at f8-f9 or greater to get good corners, even with a  9" dome and 70mm extension. The Nikkor 16mm doesn't focus as closely as the Sigma, which can be an advantage when the seals are right on your port. I wouldn't use the TC.


All the best